Must feel rewarding to be "published" huh? 
fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter gnob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So if you find (I found) clearish PS fluid which is hydraulic fluid if I'm not mistaken, then will my seals disintegrate in the near future?
So if you find (I found) clearish PS fluid which is hydraulic fluid if I'm not mistaken, then will my seals disintegrate in the near future?
Oh yeah- anyone got a part # for the little "O" ring on the suction port? Those guys sometimes die an early death!
Oh yeah- anyone got a part # for the little "O" ring on the suction port? Those guys sometimes die an early death!
Are you sure it wasn't just water? Kief, are you doing a similar rebuild like Aric did?
- Thread starter
- #26
and the "clear" fluid
hard to say without knowing what it is.
from what i have seen toyotas dont come from the factory with ATF as the PS fluid.
it appears to be power steering fluid or some other hydraulic.
for the record i used "amsoil tractor and hydraulic fluid" in my 22RE pump with no ill effects. and the new PSC pump for that matter.
hard to say without knowing what it is.
from what i have seen toyotas dont come from the factory with ATF as the PS fluid.
it appears to be power steering fluid or some other hydraulic.
for the record i used "amsoil tractor and hydraulic fluid" in my 22RE pump with no ill effects. and the new PSC pump for that matter.
Great thread. 
Just rebuilt my pump and it was helpful to have this plus the FSM. A few bits I thought I'd throw in for others reference:
Just rebuilt my pump and it was helpful to have this plus the FSM. A few bits I thought I'd throw in for others reference:- The gates pump rebuild kit comes with the pump-to-engine seal, so no need to buy separate. It does NOT come with the bearing. I purchased from Rock Auto and it took about 2 days to arrive.
- You might as well do all 4 lines if they have not been done recently. (see the beginning of this thread for the link provided) I ended up using the napa hi pressure line, and the low pressure feed tube (16mm or 5/8") and carquest tranny line for the two smaller low pressure hoses (10mm or in this case, 3/8). The napa high pressure hose doesn't fit quite as well as the toyota one, and uses a 16mm fitting on one end instead of the toyota 17mm. (You get what you pay for)
- To torque the gear back on I used a plastic/rubber strap wrench to avoid damaging the gears. It was a bit of a SOB but I was able to get the proper torque.
Last edited:
Sweet thread. Coincidently, my 80's p/s pump is leaking out the rear, onto my A/C compressor. I was fully dreading dealing with the problem before reading this....great info, thanks Aric.....
I just took apart an OEM pump and the bearing had metal seals on both sides and marked 6203Z
Thanks for the write up. I was a little leery of doing this myself since I've never rebuilt an hydraulic pump before. Everything went fine. Rock Auto rebuild kit was around $15. It comes with a pump to engine O-ring. I drove out the bottom of the pump from the backside using a screwdriver and hammer. Same with the seal. Accessed both bolts to remove the pump from below with a 3/8' ratchet and a 4" extension. I had replaced the high pressure line 6 months ago and dint have any additional crush washers for the banjo bolt. I've read that annealing a copper crush washer allows it to be used again so I heated them both up with a Mapp torch.
Hi, any other suggestions to remove the rear plate? I have taped like crazy the pump and won't come out, I taped lightly but many times and with force, the pump is not deformed or anything like that just the rear plate wont come out.
I have already removed the plates one time replaced the o-rings, the seal and the bearing but installed wrong the first plate (the one closet to the bearing is not fully seated in place) so all the plates are to high and the pump won't close of course.
This is driving me crazy I don't know what else to do.
Thanks.
According to the bearing spec book, a bearing p/n showing only (1) Z indicates the bearing only has a shield on one side. Check me on that THX.
The one that I removed says 6203Z and has the metallic shield on both sides.
Did you figure this out yet? My rear plate was stuck pretty good so I removed the ring, plugged the hp outlet then 'blew' the plate by pressurising the pump with a compressor through the suction port. Worked really well, just make sure to 'aim' the back of the pump into a rag away from anything important
Matt
Last edited:
No, the rear plate it's still stuck, but it's the rear plate not the rear cover, I don't see how I could pressurize the pump if the rear plate has 4 big holes? Or it will work anyway? I don't have a powerful compressor on hand so I will do that later this week.
I needed my car ASAP so I purchased a new pump, when this is solved I finish the rebuilt and sell the old pump.
Thanks!
This is a great thread! I'm ready to do mine now.