Rear drum brake problems (1 Viewer)

[darthvincor]

Hi again everyone,

I recently posted a question about wheel bearings, and am now doing the other side. And of course... something has to go wrong.

The left rear drum brake, refused to come off. I had done the right side, and that drum slid off easily. But this side didn't.
I used two bolts to force the drum off. And while doing so, things snapped and fell out. I suppose I should've attempted to manually retract the shoes, but I couldn't understand why this side wouldn't budge.

Once it came off, I understood why, the shoes were stuck in a very deep groove.

These things fell out:

And here's what it looks like now:

What should I do now? I just wanted to repack the bearings, and know nothing about drum brakes.
Is fixing the brakes and those parts that fell out, easy to do?
Could this have been avoided?


(and on a side note: cone washers = brass drift + big hammer, it worked really well, they came out in about 1 minute. I used to doubt the drift and hammer method, but I am a believer now.)

 

[Ivy4x4]

Those things are what hold the brake shoes from sidewards movement (left to right movement) the one that remains on the right all you'll need to do is put the spring in then the retainer so that the spring and the retainer mate the right way (Cup of the retainer is in the hollow section of the spring). You'll need a pair of pliers to compress the spring and twist the center pin so that it locks in and the spring doesn't pop out. I'd wear safety eye glasses to protect your eyes. You should probably have a look at an FSM (Factory Service Manual) to see how it's assembled.

Hope this helps

All the best of luck!!!!

 

[EWTexas]

2x on what Ivy said...but what I don't understand is why there are 3 retainers..should only be 2..1 on each end of the spring that fell out. As for the deep grove in drum had that happen to mine after the other side started leaking and only 1 side was doing all the work..1 side came off easy and the other side was a bear to get off. Maybe they were just adjusted wrong but I would check for bad wheel cylinder on other side..BTW..I believe the other one is on wrong..the retainer should set on the shoe then spring then retainer..looks like in picture that the retainer is setting on the shoe, you look to be missing a sring on that other side and that is where the 3rd retainer goes maybe...good luck

 

[FJ40Jim]

Inspect the brake nails, make sure the end that twist-locks on the retainer cup was not damaged when the retainer got yanked off.

Assuming only the retainer is damaged, reinstall all the parts, putting the damaged retainer against the shoe, and the good retainers on the outside.

The drums should be machined or replaced.

The lining is getting thin on the rear shoe. Think about new shoes while it's all apart.

 

[rover67]

Looks like the retaining assembly is on wrong on the show that still has it....

The "nail" should go through the backing plate, then through the brake shoe. It should have the spring captured by the two metal disk thinggies on the outside of the shoe. This pulls the shoe toward the backing plate.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Id vote replace the drum ,maybe both. Mike

 

[FJ40Jim]

Looks like the retaining assembly is on right on the shoe that still has it....

The "nail" should go through the backing plate, then through the brake shoe. It should have the spring captured between the two retainer cups on the outside of the shoe. This pushes the shoe toward the backing plate, centers the spring around the nail, and isolates the retaining spring from the brake shoe.

/\ Fixed /\

 

[darthvincor]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Awesome.

I had to re-read all your posts several times to figure out the names for all the parts. And I'm still not 100% sure.

I do have an FSM, one from 1980 and one from 1984-1990, in PDF format. But they're just not clear to me. They list the parts, but not exactly what goes where. I also have a more simple paper version, by Gregory's, they have a clearer diagram.

About one side doing all the work, I think you're right. My right side is contaminated with oil from a previously leaking axle seal, and the shoes and drum are hardly worn at all.

And I agree, I should replace some parts while I'm at it. I'm thinking of going ahead with the seal replacement and repacking and then patching it up, and driving it to a mechanic. And then suggest he replace (or machine) the drums and shoes on both sides, so they're both in the same condition.
Or is it doable for a drum brake novice?

And I found the second spring on the floor. The nails seem to be in decent shape.

Let me see if I understand it correctly, it's: backing plate - shoe - retainer - spring - retainer.
Is that it?


(only now that I've messed things up, do I begin to understand drum brakes... )

 

[Methusalem]

Darth, I got the same problem (stuck brake drum). Groove or no groove, it is possible to remove the drum without destroying half your cruiser
Here's a IH8MUD link with pictures on how to do that.

Stuck brake drum removal + pics

 

[tat2matt]

The oil that you said is contaminating may be coming from the leaking wheel cylinder no the axle seal. I just rebuilt my drums new whell cylinders from my dealer were 80 bucks for both and the drum kit from man a not free was like 100 all told if you take the good side off as referance and rebuild them one at a time it is not hard. I was looking at spending 500 on swithcing to disks and now I'm glad I didn't. If you can read you can do it! Go Go GO!!!

 

[FJ40Jim]

I found the second spring on the floor. The nails seem to be in decent shape.

Let me see if I understand it correctly, it's: backing plate - shoe - retainer - spring - retainer.
Is that it?

Yep, that's how it goes.

 

[darthvincor]

Darth, I got the same problem (stuck brake drum). Groove or no groove, it is possible to remove the drum without destroying half your cruiser
Here's a IH8MUD link with pictures on how to do that.

Stuck brake drum removal + pics

Good thread. Thanks.
Yup, I know that now. I'd vaguely heard of that particular screw, but...I was being an idiot. When I head the first thing snap, I knew I should've done it differently, but I pressed on and more things snapped and bounced off, I fugured it was broken anyway. (it made sense at the time)

The oil that you said is contaminating may be coming from the leaking wheel cylinder no the axle seal. I just rebuilt my drums new whell cylinders from my dealer were 80 bucks for both and the drum kit from man a not free was like 100 all told if you take the good side off as referance and rebuild them one at a time it is not hard. I was looking at spending 500 on swithcing to disks and now I'm glad I didn't. If you can read you can do it! Go Go GO!!!

Good point. I hadn't considered that.
You're right, I'll give it a go.

Yep, that's how it goes.

Thanks. I'll post some pics up of my shiny new shoes and drums when it's all said and done. Still trying to find the cheapest source for the drums.

 

[EWTexas]

You might check out RockAuto...just did mine front and rear from them..very pleased with them

 

[tat2matt]

Can drums be turned like rotors are turned?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Can drums be turned like rotors are turned?

Yes, but like rotors there is a maximum allowable wear limit.
A brake drum micrometer will determine if they can be turned, or they are already worn to the limit.