Parking brake adjustment (1 Viewer)

[Landpimp]

Never worked on a 80 or 100 rear brake or parking brake, its all new to me.

need to adjust the rear parking brake on the LX470, the handle is way out of adjustment as are the rear shoes(?) I can hear em "clunk"

so can someone walk me thru this please, i got a 2000 LC FSM.....but I am not getting it for some reason. Is it pretty much like adjusting drums on a fj40?

thanks
John

 

[mabrodis]

Yes, it's exactly like adjusting brakes on a 40.

Actually seriously it just about is. If the 100's e-brake setup is like the 80's, which I think it is then the e-brake is merely a drum brake inside of a clever drum/rotor setup.

Two things can be adjusted, you can adjust the handle and you can adjust the actual shoes in the e-brake. To adjust the shoes it's just like a 40, only for some reason I think you adjust them from the wheel-side of the drum/rotor, so you can't do it with the tire on (memory is a bit vague here sorry). Ideally you would adjust the actual shoes with a screwdriver (normal turny/clicky adjustment) until they are closer to touching but not actually touching, you don't want them to drag, I'm sure there is some official backing off from when you can't turn them or whatever. Then on the brake backing plate there is a thing called a bellcrank, all this does is provide preload on the actual shoes, this is where the e-brake cable connect, there is a set-screw that you adjust so the bellcrank can't go all the way back to the brake backing plate. I guess the idea of this is so the cable keeps semi-snug atleast, since it doesn't actually adjust the pulling, it just adjusts how much of the slack goes back then you stop pulling the e-brake handle. The combination of the bellcrank and adjusting the actual shoes lets you either have the shoes adjusted quite a way down (smaller), but then provide more preload with the bellcrank (so it's like the handle is always pulled a bit), or have the shoes adjusted up tighter and have no preload. (I guess 'preload' isn't a good word for it, since it's not a constant pulling force, it's just how much brake-shoe slack you're already taking up).

Once you do that, then it's just a matter of adjusting the adjustment at the handle, which sometimes isn't even necessary.

The only reason I can see to use the bellcranks to take up some slack on the brake-shoes is so that taking-up-slack force is not transmitted on the actual cable. Instead of adjusting the bellcranks to take the brake-shoe slack up you could just adjust the cable at the handle more, but then the cable would be bearing the tension of keeping that slack pulled up all the time, maybe that's a bad thing and that's why the bellcrank let's you take up the slack and still have the cable snug but not actually holding any real weight.

I have some pictures of this when I did it on my 80, but don't have them here at work...hopefully this makes some sense at all (doubtful).

The simplest way is to just try to adjust the cable at the handle, if it has any adjustment left, if so then tighten that and it might be fine after that.

Good Luck..

 

[points]

Good advice, you do have to take the wheels off to adjust the shoes. You will see a rubber grommet on the drums, pull that out and in goes the flat head screwdriver. I agree, be very careful not to adjust the shoes too tight like I did, I found even a little bit of drag will over heat them with smoky and smelly results! I've always worked from the handbrake - bell crank to - to the shoes- that way I usually can avoid ever having to adjust the brake shoes themselves, and when the new ones go back on it is a far simpler matter to re adjust the bell crank and handbrake to their original positions. It's a bugger lugging around those wheels!

 

[Landpimp]

thanks guys, I will hopefully get a chance to work on it in a week or two.....once things slow down at work

 

[EOS]

The 99 LX470 has rear disks and pads and not drums...

 

[Landpimp]

the parking brake is a small set of shoes on a drum, inside the rotor I beleive. yes the rear brakes are disc but parking is drum

The 99 LX470 has rear disks and pads and not drums...

 

[Rolocado]

Sooo when I got to park on a hill and put the parking break on, the truck rolls back like I didn't even pull the PB. Does it just need to be tightened?

 

[Bardiya]

Sooo when I got to park on a hill and put the parking break on, the truck rolls back like I didn't even pull the PB. Does it just need to be tightened?

Are you pulling it before or after going into park?

 

[Rolocado]

Before

 

[diego355]

Before

Yes, it needs to be adjusted. Your hand brake should be able to hold the truck on its own. Its harmful to hold the weight of the truck on the tranny.

Every time you park on a incline:
1- Put the truck in neutral with your foot on the brake
2- Pull the e-brake lever up
3- Release your foot of the brake
4- If the truck doesn't move then put it in "P" park

If the truck moves on step 3 you definitely need adjustment.


Years ago I broke the trans linkage on my Cavalier by not using the hand brake. I parked on a hill and put it in P, when I got back in again to put in in D I heard a loud snap and the gear lever moved freely.

 

[LandForce1]

When in there adjusting things make sure to check that the lever (or bell crank? It's the part behind each wheel on the back side of the dust shield that has a rubber boot around it and the e-brake cable connects to it) moves freely. I recently rebuilt my rear e brake system and one lever was fully seized up not allowing function of the shoes inside the drum.

 

[oakback]

be very careful not to adjust the shoes too tight like I did

Would it make sense to pull the lever up partially, adjust until the pads touch, then let the lever down?

 

[Slimm]

Yes, it's exactly like adjusting brakes on a 40.

Actually seriously it just about is. If the 100's e-brake setup is like the 80's, which I think it is then the e-brake is merely a drum brake inside of a clever drum/rotor setup.

Two things can be adjusted, you can adjust the handle and you can adjust the actual shoes in the e-brake. To adjust the shoes it's just like a 40, only for some reason I think you adjust them from the wheel-side of the drum/rotor, so you can't do it with the tire on (memory is a bit vague here sorry). Ideally you would adjust the actual shoes with a screwdriver (normal turny/clicky adjustment) until they are closer to touching but not actually touching, you don't want them to drag, I'm sure there is some official backing off from when you can't turn them or whatever. Then on the brake backing plate there is a thing called a bellcrank, all this does is provide preload on the actual shoes, this is where the e-brake cable connect, there is a set-screw that you adjust so the bellcrank can't go all the way back to the brake backing plate. I guess the idea of this is so the cable keeps semi-snug atleast, since it doesn't actually adjust the pulling, it just adjusts how much of the slack goes back then you stop pulling the e-brake handle. The combination of the bellcrank and adjusting the actual shoes lets you either have the shoes adjusted quite a way down (smaller), but then provide more preload with the bellcrank (so it's like the handle is always pulled a bit), or have the shoes adjusted up tighter and have no preload. (I guess 'preload' isn't a good word for it, since it's not a constant pulling force, it's just how much brake-shoe slack you're already taking up).

Once you do that, then it's just a matter of adjusting the adjustment at the handle, which sometimes isn't even necessary.

The only reason I can see to use the bellcranks to take up some slack on the brake-shoes is so that taking-up-slack force is not transmitted on the actual cable. Instead of adjusting the bellcranks to take the brake-shoe slack up you could just adjust the cable at the handle more, but then the cable would be bearing the tension of keeping that slack pulled up all the time, maybe that's a bad thing and that's why the bellcrank let's you take up the slack and still have the cable snug but not actually holding any real weight.

I have some pictures of this when I did it on my 80, but don't have them here at work...hopefully this makes some sense at all (doubtful).

The simplest way is to just try to adjust the cable at the handle, if it has any adjustment left, if so then tighten that and it might be fine after that.

Good Luck..

Yes, it's exactly like adjusting brakes on a 40.

Actually seriously it just about is. If the 100's e-brake setup is like the 80's, which I think it is then the e-brake is merely a drum brake inside of a clever drum/rotor setup.

Two things can be adjusted, you can adjust the handle and you can adjust the actual shoes in the e-brake. To adjust the shoes it's just like a 40, only for some reason I think you adjust them from the wheel-side of the drum/rotor, so you can't do it with the tire on (memory is a bit vague here sorry). Ideally you would adjust the actual shoes with a screwdriver (normal turny/clicky adjustment) until they are closer to touching but not actually touching, you don't want them to drag, I'm sure there is some official backing off from when you can't turn them or whatever. Then on the brake backing plate there is a thing called a bellcrank, all this does is provide preload on the actual shoes, this is where the e-brake cable connect, there is a set-screw that you adjust so the bellcrank can't go all the way back to the brake backing plate. I guess the idea of this is so the cable keeps semi-snug atleast, since it doesn't actually adjust the pulling, it just adjusts how much of the slack goes back then you stop pulling the e-brake handle. The combination of the bellcrank and adjusting the actual shoes lets you either have the shoes adjusted quite a way down (smaller), but then provide more preload with the bellcrank (so it's like the handle is always pulled a bit), or have the shoes adjusted up tighter and have no preload. (I guess 'preload' isn't a good word for it, since it's not a constant pulling force, it's just how much brake-shoe slack you're already taking up).

Once you do that, then it's just a matter of adjusting the adjustment at the handle, which sometimes isn't even necessary.

The only reason I can see to use the bellcranks to take up some slack on the brake-shoes is so that taking-up-slack force is not transmitted on the actual cable. Instead of adjusting the bellcranks to take the brake-shoe slack up you could just adjust the cable at the handle more, but then the cable would be bearing the tension of keeping that slack pulled up all the time, maybe that's a bad thing and that's why the bellcrank let's you take up the slack and still have the cable snug but not actually holding any real weight.

I have some pictures of this when I did it on my 80, but don't have them here at work...hopefully this makes some sense at all (doubtful).

The simplest way is to just try to adjust the cable at the handle, if it has any adjustment left, if so then tighten that and it might be fine after that.

Good Luck..

I apologize in advance for reviving this but I can’t seem to find out how to adjust the cable at the handle. Where is this done at? I have good power with my parking brake but I feel like I have to pull the handle up extra high before I get much engagement.

Thanks!

 

[TxAggieLC]

I apologize in advance for reviving this but I can’t seem to find out how to adjust the cable at the handle. Where is this done at? I have good power with my parking brake but I feel like I have to pull the handle up extra high before I get much engagement.

Thanks!

I'm curious about this too. My parking brake is catching some but I have to pull the handle all the way up (I believe) before it grabs enough to prevent any shifting forward or back when parking.

 

[hickuptruck]

I'm curious about this too. My parking brake is catching some but I have to pull the handle all the way up (I believe) before it grabs enough to prevent any shifting forward or back when parking.

Adjust the star. I had that same problem, then what I did was I adjusted the star so wheel wouldn't move, the back off 2-3 screwdriver down adjustments. This is all adjusted with a flathead through the rubber piece on the rotor.

 

[TxAggieLC]

Adjust the star. I had that same problem, then what I did was I adjusted the star so wheel wouldn't move, the back off 2-3 screwdriver down adjustments. This is all adjusted with a flathead through the rubber piece on the rotor.

So pop off the wheel and adjust the star through the rubber piece until it wont move anymore? Sounds easy enough!

 

[Slimm]

Thanks for the insight!! Will definitely give this a try

 

[brownfox]

I recently pulled book marked the FSM section for doing this. In it, there was no adjustment at the handle, and the fine tuning of how the handle responds is all done at the rear. I’ll try to find it...

 

[brownfox]

 

[thebeedeegee]

reviving this one from the dead, but has anyone else tried to do this and the hole through the rotor doesn't line up with the crank? I have to take the rotor off to adjust