Over the last few weekends I installed a bunch of electrical accessories, and figured that I'd show some pictures of what I did for ideas and pointers for anyone else planning similar upgrades. This was supposed to be a winter project because I wanted fog lights for driving in the snow, but the lights were back ordered for three months, and finally arrived just in time for spring. (I can't complain too much, though, because they were a Christmas gift and didn't cost me anything.) In addition to the fog lights, I also wired up a CB, an amplifier, new gauges, and extra 12V outlets.
To start with, all the new wiring goes through a fuse block that I mounted to the PS fender. For extra protection, there's an inline fuse between the new fuse block and the battery. Maybe it's overkill, but I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.
The fog lights are mounted to the front bumper, and their cables run into holes that I drilled in the valence (protected by grommets, of course). Behind the valence, their power runs go up behind the PS headlight and under the battery tray to meet up w/ a relay next to the new fuse block. I ran the wires through some split loom to protect them behind the valence. (They're the yellow wires in the first picture, above.)
After the fuse block, all new wiring runs alongside the stock wiring harness and through the grommet behind the washer tank. You can't really see it in the photo because it's hidden by the harness, but since I don't have an AM/FM antenna I ran the wires through the hole that the antenna cable used to use, without modifying or damaging the grommet in any way.
On the inside, the wires enter the cab next to the blower. Remove the glove box, and with a little hunting around by the top edge of the kick panel you'll find them when they poke through. Along with the first wire that you push through you'll also want to run a few pulls for the other wires--it'll make for a lot less hunting around after the first one's through. I used 6' sections of speaker wire for my pulls. They're stronger than twine, and smooth enough that they don't get hung up. (Besides, I found a spare length of speaker wire that a PO had left in the truck, so I figured I'd make use of it.)
To start with, all the new wiring goes through a fuse block that I mounted to the PS fender. For extra protection, there's an inline fuse between the new fuse block and the battery. Maybe it's overkill, but I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.
The fog lights are mounted to the front bumper, and their cables run into holes that I drilled in the valence (protected by grommets, of course). Behind the valence, their power runs go up behind the PS headlight and under the battery tray to meet up w/ a relay next to the new fuse block. I ran the wires through some split loom to protect them behind the valence. (They're the yellow wires in the first picture, above.)
After the fuse block, all new wiring runs alongside the stock wiring harness and through the grommet behind the washer tank. You can't really see it in the photo because it's hidden by the harness, but since I don't have an AM/FM antenna I ran the wires through the hole that the antenna cable used to use, without modifying or damaging the grommet in any way.
On the inside, the wires enter the cab next to the blower. Remove the glove box, and with a little hunting around by the top edge of the kick panel you'll find them when they poke through. Along with the first wire that you push through you'll also want to run a few pulls for the other wires--it'll make for a lot less hunting around after the first one's through. I used 6' sections of speaker wire for my pulls. They're stronger than twine, and smooth enough that they don't get hung up. (Besides, I found a spare length of speaker wire that a PO had left in the truck, so I figured I'd make use of it.)