Fuel Sock Replacement with Pictures (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 22, 2009
Threads
17
Messages
459
Location
Cedar Park, TX
Originally I used IdahoDoug's fuel sock thread to learn about this process but have since been unable to locate the thread again. After conferring with him I have decided to add my version of this fix from a slightly less mechanically inclined mudder's point of view.

IdahoDoug, I invite you (or anyone else for that matter) to add suggestions or pictures if I have left out anything.

Parts to order prior to starting this project (91-92 Models):

Filter, Suction (fuel sock) P/N 23217-11010
Clip, Fuel Pump (used to attach sock to pump) P/N 23219-03010
Gasket, Fuel Suction P/N 77169-60010

These parts are around 19.00 plus shipping from CDan but as he stated it might not be worth the savings after cost of shipping so I went with my local dealer and spent 21.00.

  1. The first step in this process is disconnect the negative battery terminal then release the pressure in the fuel system by removing/loosening the gas cap.
  2. Locate the fuel pump door on top of the fuel tank. Important: you do not have to remove the tank to complete this swap! The fuel pump access door is directly under the second row of seats. Since I had my interior removed for another project already it was easy to locate. If you still have your interior intact it is still easy to access. Simply, remove the second row seats, the kick plates in teh back doors and the door trim. Now locate the seam between the cargo carpet piece and your 2nd row passenger piece. Under the seam there are retainer clips which you will need to unscrew to fold the cargo carpet backwards some. Also fold the second row carpet back the opposite way to reveal the oval shaped fuel pump door.
Reference Pic:
IM005721.jpg
 
Last edited:
3. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove the 3 screws that are used to secure the fuel pump door.

4. What lies beneath is something that Indiana Jones would come across. There was a huge amount of dust and dirt under this door waiting for me. I used some compressed air to clear away any debris so that it would not accidentally fall into the tank when I remove the fuel tank hatch.
IM005714.jpg
 
Without using the proper terms or getting too technical I will explain the next steps (mainly because I dont know them HA)

5. Disconnect the elecrical connector and set aside out of the way

6. Remove the banjo bolt fashioned at the top of the hatch, move this unit to the side

7. Disconnect only the hose to the left at the top of the picture (even though there is a line pointed to both), expect some fuel to trickle out (the other hose is connected to the fuel line you removed with the banjo bolt

8. Remove all of the screws on the hatch using a phillips head screwdriver
IM005713 with instr.jpg
 
Last edited:
9. Lay some towels down around the opening as fuel will leak out of the fuel pump during this next step. You can see the nice stain it left on the floor of my rig in the first picture of this thread.

10. Lift the fuel pump assembly straight up out of the fuel tank. You may have to twist and tilt the unit to get it all of the way out. Allow the fuel pump to drain a little by holding it directly above the fuel tank opening for a few moments prior to moving the unit elsewhere.

11. Once the assembly is removedyou will need to remove the fuel pump assembly/fuel sock clip that retains the sock in place. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers for this. (no pic of this sorry)

12. Removing the sock is simple, pull straight down and across the unit and the rubber piece will give enough to allow the sock to be removed.

13. Replace the sock and the retainer clip.

14. Replace the fuel pump hatch gasket with the new one you purchased prior to putting the unit back into the fuel tank.

15. Lower the assembly back into the tank manuevering the assembly left to right and side to side until it drops straight down in the tank.

16. The rest is simply assembling everything back in reverse order.
IM005715.jpg
IM005716.jpg
IM005717.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mystery de-mystified!

It sounded easy enough when others mentioning doing it. But man this looks simple indeed.
 
After everything was buttoned back up I couldnt stand the look of the hatch so I took the time to clean it too. See before and after shots below.

There was some pretty crusty stuff in the sock and I just wouldnt believe it wasnt impeeding some fuel flow sometimes so I am glad that I changed it.

I drove the rig and did notice some improved idling after the rig was warmmed up. I had always had a problem when she was warm keeping a steady idle. It would jump between 600-750 and sometimes it would dip to 300. I have cleaned the throttle body, replaced all plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, all vac lines have been flushed and replaced all rubber lines. Cleaned the intake and air filter housing including that little reservoir at the bottom that seems to collect debris. I also de-smogged the rig last week and replaced the in-line fuel filter. I could tell she was getting better through each step of the process but the sock exchange smoothed out the idle even better. It was probably just the last piece of the puzzle though. Even though she dips 25-50 rpms still, I will call it a victory and move on.

Hope you enjoyed the thread.
IM005713.jpg
IM005719.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice simple write up and such an easy part of PM that gets overlooked by so many.
 
Mystery de-mystified!

It sounded easy enough when others mentioning doing it. But man this looks simple indeed.

Thanks NLXTACY. Slowly I am getting the hang of this mad science!!
 
Jack: Thanks for this write up. Like NXtlcy(?) I had read it was easy but now this is evidence of that!

What did you use to clean the top after you put lid back on??

:beer:
 
Jack: Thanks for this write up. Like NXtlcy(?) I had read it was easy but now this is evidence of that!

What did you use to clean the top after you put lid back on??

:beer:

Simple Green and a tooth brush, then a shop rag.
 
Looks like I am going to follow suite in the next few days. I figured along the same lines, if I will be installing sound deadener, might as well do this while the cabin is empty. Nice detailed pics.
 
Great write up. Thanks for taking the time to post and provide great pics. Another item on my "To Do" list.
 
Nice simple write up and such an easy part of PM that gets overlooked by so many.

Thanks mshelby. It is on PM that should not be overlooked. I figure I am good for another 200K miles. ;)
 
Looks like I am going to follow suit in the next few days. I figured along the same lines, if I will be installing sound deadener, might as well do this while the cabin is empty. Nice detailed pics.

Great write up. Thanks for taking the time to post and provide great pics. Another item on my "To Do" list.

Thanks guys. My To Do list never gets any shorter. One item comes off and another goes on. :)
 
very nice, nothing beats pictures. nothing worse than trying to visualize mere words.
 
maybe I miss it .. but a dumb question .. did you have a problem that drives you to replace the sock .?

Yes. The problem that drives me to replace everything on my rig is called OCD! (obsessive-compulsive-disorder) HA! :D

Actually I had been chasing a rough idle for some time (post #7) and this is one of the items on the list of possible fixes.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom