FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump (2 Viewers)

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Hmm... I do not think it matters what year you use, but I do not know for certain.

Keep in mind, the variable element here is where you place your box mount. My friend subzali placed his box in a little bit different place than I did.

I got my 60 components off of a 1985.
 
I agree with you TJ, I am not sure what year my FJ60 steering column came off of, but it fit up fine.

There will be differences, however, with the mounting bolt pattern on early vs. late 60 series steering boxes. One is supposedly easier to find than the other, not sure about that but I think I have the later style where the bolts are slightly parallelogram rather than rectangular.

On box placement, there is a guy in the 40 series section who is doing a conversion and his box is so far forward he's cutting into his bib to make it fit:
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - On fj60 PS conversion - do you need a draglink?
 
subzali said:
I agree with you TJ, I am not sure what year my FJ60 steering column came off of, but it fit up fine.

There will be differences, however, with the mounting bolt pattern on early vs. late 60 series steering boxes. One is supposedly easier to find than the other, not sure about that but I think I have the later style where the bolts are slightly parallelogram rather than rectangular.

On box placement, there is a guy in the 40 series section who is doing a conversion and his box is so far forward he's cutting into his bib to make it fit:
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - On fj60 PS conversion - do you need a draglink?
Click to expand...

I am not sure if he is looking at pictures of other conversions, b/c that looks like two different rigs to me. Notice one has a plate and one does not...
 
I get questions from time to time via PM, and sometimes they look like they would help the community in general, so I am posting up some questions I got today:

Lulu said:
Hey PC, I have a question for you sort of in reference to your FAQ fj60 PS swap.
I just did a FJ60 knuckle swap to my 74 40 for the disc conversion. I am thinking of using the fj60 steering box as well, but I am not sure about the linkage to use. Since my truck now has FJ60 knuckles I can't follow your thread to the letter, but I think 60 tie rods are longer than 40's correct?
I was told this 60 PS conversion was a bolt on mod, but now can't seem to find an answer to this question.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

Your use of FJ60 knuckles will make it even easier!

You can use 60 TRE's at both knuckles. You will already be using a 60 relay rod end at the pitman arm, so you can finish things out by using a 60 relay rod end at the passenger side knuckle, where it ties into the TRE.

Make sense?

Since a 40/55 axle is shorter (narrower) than a 60 axle you will either have to shorten the 60 relay and tie rods, or get some custom made.

HTH,

Lulu said:
Ok, so I hope you don't mind more questions, clarifications... from the 60 steering arms I need to use 60 TRE's (makes sense), but my 40 tie rod and relay rod are too short, so I need to get 60 tie rod and relay rod and cut them down (is it best to cut off end and have it threaded or cut in middle and weld?) or have custom made (by who, and is it a standard known length or will I need to take measurements?).
Will my 40 center arm work (are the holes the right size?) and from there I use the drag link for the 60 steering box?

I think I covered everything, sorry if these sound dumb, this is all new to me but learning a lot. Who knew i could rebuild a knuckle. I didn't even know what a knuckle was until I took it off.

Thanks again,

Brad
Click to expand...

These are not dumb questions! I do not know about using your 40 center arm. I would suggest going back and reading the posts that describe the thread diameters for the respective pieces.

I would recomend measuring relay rod from center arm to where the passenger side 60 TRE accepts the relay rod. I am guessing you will need an insert to match the taper from your stock 40 relay rod end into the 60 TRE.

As an alternative, I would do the 60 PS conversion now and ditch the center arm. Then make custom relay rod with options listed below..

Tie Rod: You have a number of options. You could get one custom made. See here for details on Front Range Off Road: Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
Or you could get threaded inserts to weld into tubing: Tube Adapters
You could cut your 60 tie rod and get it threaded by a machine shop. The right handed thread will be the more common tap, so I would opt to cut off that side and re-thread. Or you could cut in the middle and weld it up. Do not shortcut on your welding here. I have no welding skills, so I am going to have some custom tube made for me.
 
if your using a 60 series box and you have 60 series knuckles out, then the 40 series center arm is not needed. the center arm is only needed for 40 series boxes.

to tie all your ends together, 70 series would probably work best. Mike Bingham from Cabe Toyota could help you with non-usa parts. Make sure you get left hand drive and you should be fine. I'll try to dig up the parts numbers, I know that I kept the receipt from my order. the relay rod and tie rod from the 70 series should work as well since they are approximately the same width as the 40 series. I did not go this route because it was just as easy to have some custom ones cut and threaded. I'll also try to get this info for you.

HTH's, Sean
 
First I want to apologize. I "thought" I had read this entire thread.... I think I got "scared" when parts from 4 different trucks were having to be used.
I did not realize that the 60 PS swap eliminated the drag link and center arm. I was getting confused with reading several posts in FAQ about mini-truck PS swap and using the same location for steering box and BDorry bracket.
Sean, you would be a life saver if you find that info. Did you go with Front Range? If not who did you use, and would your measurements be usable for any 40? I don't see any reason not the go the custom route myself as I am still in pieces and think I should wait on the install till I have the SBC in place to check for clearance issues.

Thank you all so much for helping another newb!!! IH8MUD rocks!!

EDIT: Just go toff the phone with the guy I bought the 1985 FJ60 knuckles from. He has the steering column, tie rod, relay rod with all ends attached, and steering box minus the pitman arm. If I go with custom tie rod and relay rod, can I use the FJ60 ends everywhere and be done with it? And all I will need is an FJ55 column hopefully with keys to swap into the 40.
 
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67azcruizr said:
if your using a 60 series box and you have 60 series knuckles out, then the 40 series center arm is not needed. the center arm is only needed for 40 series boxes.

to tie all your ends together, 70 series would probably work best. Mike Bingham from Cabe Toyota could help you with non-usa parts. Make sure you get left hand drive and you should be fine. I'll try to dig up the parts numbers, I know that I kept the receipt from my order. the relay rod and tie rod from the 70 series should work as well since they are approximately the same width as the 40 series. I did not go this route because it was just as easy to have some custom ones cut and threaded. I'll also try to get this info for you.

HTH's, Sean
Click to expand...

Sean,

I would be psyched to get Mike Bingham @ Cabe Toyota's number!

P/N's would be a plus!
 
Lulu said:
First I want to apologize. I "thought" I had read this entire thread.... I think I got "scared" when parts from 4 different trucks were having to be used.
I did not realize that the 60 PS swap eliminated the drag link and center arm. I was getting confused with reading several posts in FAQ about mini-truck PS swap and using the same location for steering box and BDorry bracket.
Sean, you would be a life saver if you find that info. Did you go with Front Range? If not who did you use, and would your measurements be usable for any 40? I don't see any reason not the go the custom route myself as I am still in pieces and think I should wait on the install till I have the SBC in place to check for clearance issues.

Thank you all so much for helping another newb!!! IH8MUD rocks!!

EDIT: Just go toff the phone with the guy I bought the 1985 FJ60 knuckles from. He has the steering column, tie rod, relay rod with all ends attached, and steering box minus the pitman arm. If I go with custom tie rod and relay rod, can I use the FJ60 ends everywhere and be done with it? And all I will need is an FJ55 column hopefully with keys to swap into the 40.
Click to expand...

Brad, do not worry, you are putting together a lot of pieces of this puzzle...
Take your time, re-read this thread and look at all the pictures. I am a visual learner, so I try to take a ton of pictures.

Custom relay rod and tie rod will allow you to use 60 ends everywhere.

You will need a 60 pitman arm. I have heard a 70 series pitman arm will work also.

A 55 column will suit you well if you have a later 40 with the bucket on the firewall like mine.

What year is your 40?

FYI: you can pull the lock cylinder out of your 40 column and swap it over to the 55 column.
 
Thanks Pablo or is it TJ? I have noticed a couple of the more seasoned guys on here just stop answering questions.. but I guess if you don't enjoy what you are doing, even if it helps someone else, don't do it.
I did reread this thread as well as subzali's thread. My next question is in regard to the pitman arm. And to answer your question my rig is a 74. I have a small bucket but it is around the steering column, is that what you were referring too?
Anyway about the pitman arm, I am installing OME 2.5" springs, with that being said isn't the 60 arm better than 70 arm? If I recall correctly the downturn in the 60 arm could be an issue, and the 70 arm was straighter. Steve (the parts contact) has a friend that may have a 60 arm for me for cheap other wise guide me in the right direction since I don't have one to work with anyway,
Second question, you mentioned that if doing it again that you would replace the shock towers to F250. I have a bare frame right now so that would be very easy to do, but is it just for clearance of the steering box ? Seems as though you and subzali mounted the boxes in different places and he changed his towers after he ruined the factory cutting them off. Should i wait on that till I am reassembling?

BTW I am installing a SBC so I am wondering how the headers (probably huggers) are going to effect the fit up of this version? Like you, I just really didn't want to go full saginaw with the fab required, as I have so far done everything to my rig personally.
 
Brad,

No problem with the help. I love this conversion and like detail, so I am glad it is helping folks out.

I have no idea about how headers will affect your project. I stayed with the stock 2F and stock exhaust. You will have to experiment...

I did replace my shock towers with F250 pieces, so I am not sure where you found my comment. I may have said that I would locate my box, and then do the F250 shock towers (I did it in reverse!). I would mount your fornt axle on the springs, measure castor (determine if you need shims), then place box (figure out what pitman arm to use at this point), then do shock towers.

I have never seen a 70 pitman arm in person, so I have little value to add in that discussion. Maybe someone else can get us a picture? I am not sure if Sean's contact can get one here in the US?

If you have a small bucket around the column, and it looks like this (from post 15 of this thread), you can use the 55 column:
VC-328F.jpg
 
That was it, from your first post. Another example of my eyes and brain being on separate pages. I do have that bucket so I am good to go. It's gonna be a while before I will be that far along I just want to get the tie rod so my from wheels point in the same direction. Makes for easier time moving chassis. Seems as though in another thread I read about someone keeping there shock towers, but I will have plenty of time to fit it up before it is ready to be driven again. Any chance there is a year 55 I should look for or any years to avoid in my search for steering column?
Meanwhile gonna search for v8 conversion threads that have done this PS conversion.

Thanks again.
 
Lulu said:
That was it, from your first post. Another example of my eyes and brain being on separate pages. I do have that bucket so I am good to go. It's gonna be a while before I will be that far along I just want to get the tie rod so my from wheels point in the same direction. Makes for easier time moving chassis. Seems as though in another thread I read about someone keeping there shock towers, but I will have plenty of time to fit it up before it is ready to be driven again. Any chance there is a year 55 I should look for or any years to avoid in my search for steering column?
Meanwhile gonna search for v8 conversion threads that have done this PS conversion.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

The SOR website shows 1972 being the changover year for steering columns - 40's switched in 9/72, Pigs switched in 4/72.

I think Subzali kept his shock towers.
 
here's what I've got so far (more to come)



RH passenger side tie rod end........
45046-69155 1/90-7/99 as of '07 dealer price was $33.28



RH relay rod end.............
45045-69046 6/89-7/99 as of '07 dealer price was $56.84



LH tie rod end............
45047-69085 1/90-7/99as of '07 dealer price was $29.11



pitman arm end..............
45044-69086 11/84-7/99 as of '07 dealer price was $68.39

I have a PS/RH 70 series tie rod end and a 60 series PS/RH tie rod end that I could take pictures of to show the difference in dimensions

also the DS/LH drag link/relay rod end is shorter on the 70 series, but still not sure if it would work with retaining a 40 series stock dampener? It may be best to get two PS/RH relay rod ends(both 21mm) and get a custom relay rod cut and also use an after-market dampener?

have some kids stuff this morning but will get the pictures up by tonite.

hope this helps

oh yeah, Mike's probably not in today but here is the number for Cabe in LB, CA., just ask for Mike Bingham..............800-576-2223. last time I spoke to Mike about these they came in an after-market kit that was much cheaper. Toyota does not offer these components in a kit form, you have to order ALL individual pieces. but the bonus was they came with either a tie rod with the ends or a relay rod with the drag link ends? don't remember which.
 
67azcruizr said:
here's what I've got so far (more to come)



RH passenger side tie rod end........
45046-69155 1/90-7/99 as of '07 dealer price was $33.28



RH relay rod end.............
45045-69046 6/89-7/99 as of '07 dealer price was $56.84



LH tie rod end............
45047-69085 1/90-7/99as of '07 dealer price was $29.11



pitman arm end..............
45044-69086 11/84-7/99 as of '07 dealer price was $68.39

I have a PS/RH 70 series tie rod end and a 60 series PS/RH tie rod end that I could take pictures of to show the difference in dimensions

also the DS/LH drag link/relay rod end is shorter on the 70 series, but still not sure if it would work with retaining a 40 series stock dampener? It may be best to get two PS/RH relay rod ends(both 21mm) and get a custom relay rod cut and also use an after-market dampener?

have some kids stuff this morning but will get the pictures up by tonite.

hope this helps

oh yeah, Mike's probably not in today but here is the number for Cabe in LB, CA., just ask for Mike Bingham..............800-576-2223. last time I spoke to Mike about these they came in an after-market kit that was much cheaper. Toyota does not offer these components in a kit form, you have to order ALL individual pieces. but the bonus was they came with either a tie rod with the ends or a relay rod with the drag link ends? don't remember which.
Click to expand...

Great info - thanks!

I know I would opt for the relay rod kit if the price is resonable...
 
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Finished Mine - Here's Pix...

I just completed my FJ-60 PS install - some little things to clean up, but overall, we got it done in 1 1/2 days, which included fabbing up a new idler pulley bracket, the FJ-60 PS and cooler, Ford F-250 shock towers and bump stops.

Prior to this I had flipped my front springs, which resulted in me having to position my box pretty far forward.

I appreciate the ideas on this board, I got lots of good tips from this thread.

I got the pump on a 2F engine I swapped in, so I didn't have to worry about either sourcing or installing that. All the other gear came off a clean FJ-60 that I found in a local pick-n-pull (it was a C4C vehicle).

The steering column and intermediate shaft came off an FJ-55 that I sourced through the "Parts Wanted" section.

Things to do:

- Swap out Steering Arms with FJ-60 Arms (I have Minitruck Knuckles)
- Tie Rod & Drag Link (FROR?)
- Install my Grant Steering Wheel and Clean Up Column
- Select Shocks and Install (Needs Articulation Check)

Here's the pix....

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A Couple More Pix

OBTW: The steering is great - it is unbelievable. The wheel travel is limited only by the axle stops, which I bet I can adjust to reduce my turning radius even further.

I even went and played in the mud this evening.....

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P1010011_sm.JPG
P1010008_sm.JPG
P1010009_sm.JPG
P1010011_sm.JPG
 
Rocky_LC said:
I just completed my FJ-60 PS install - some little things to clean up, but overall, we got it done in 1 1/2 days, which included fabbing up a new idler pulley bracket, the FJ-60 PS and cooler, Ford F-250 shock towers and bump stops.

Prior to this I had flipped my front springs, which resulted in me having to position my box pretty far forward.

I appreciate the ideas on this board, I got lots of good tips from this thread.

I got the pump on a 2F engine I swapped in, so I didn't have to worry about either sourcing or installing that. All the other gear came off a clean FJ-60 that I found in a local pick-n-pull (it was a C4C vehicle).

The steering column and intermediate shaft came off an FJ-55 that I sourced through the "Parts Wanted" section.

Things to do:

- Swap out Steering Arms with FJ-60 Arms (I have Minitruck Knuckles)
- Tie Rod & Drag Link (FROR?)
- Install my Grant Steering Wheel and Clean Up Column
- Select Shocks and Install (Needs Articulation Check)

Here's the pix....

View attachment 400174

View attachment 400175

View attachment 400176
Click to expand...

I am glad this thread helped your conversion!

What pieces did you use to fab the idler pulley?

Do you have any pics detailing the idler?
 
67azcruizr said:
I have a PS/RH 70 series tie rod end and a 60 series PS/RH tie rod end that I could take pictures of to show the difference in dimensions.
Click to expand...

It would be great to see these pieces side by side.

I am thinking if Mike at Cabe can get me the aftermarket kit, I will use the 70 relay rod assembly and ream out the 40 PS TRE to accept.

I am wondering if the taper is the same btwn 60 and 70 series, so your pics will help!
 
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