Green coolant vs. Red coolant (6 Viewers)

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"Silicone Silicate" is obviously missing from the ingredient listing for Toyota red.

D-
 
atijerino said:
Any relation between the type of coolant used and the PHH?

To answer this yet unanswered question, no. The PHH is going to take a s*** sometime after 100k miles or 10 years no matter what you do. The best course of action is to replace it unless you know for a fact that it has already been done. I will further suggest that if, for any reason, the transmission is removed replace the PHH before the transmission is reinstalled. This opportunity, short of engine removall, is the best time to change that hose.

D-
 
elmariachi said:
Here is how Toyota describes their red coolant:

"Genuine Toyota Long Life Antifreeze Coolant, with its distinctive red appearance, provides maximum protection without the use of harmful silicates. This formula is extremely durable and because of its compatibility with non-metallic materials, it helps extend the life of water pump seals.

Will not clog radiators from silicone "gelling."
Will not corrode aluminum surfaces like coolants that contain borate.
Helps protect water pump seals. "

Nuff said.

So nothing above states or supports that the waterpump seal is not designed for silicate containing antifreeze, right?
 
Rich said:
So nothing above states or supports that the waterpump seal is not designed for silicate containing antifreeze, right?


Of course that specific statement is not made. However silicone silicate is specifically omitted from OEM coolant blends.
Draw your own conclusions.

D-
 
cruiserdan said:
To answer this yet unanswered question, no. The PHH is going to take a $#!* sometime after 100k miles or 10 years no matter what you do.

Post Whore,
Read #6 and quit padding.
-B-
 
I lost a radiator in 6 months due to switching from prestone green to prestone orange long-life (flushed everything, but forgot to flush the heater core). With the new radiator, the shop first used green w/ distilled water (I provided the water). I fully flushed it out a few months later, including pulling the block drain bolt. Upon inserting a coat-hanger wire in the drain hole, some deposits flowed out. This time, I went w/ Toyota red and distilled water before moving from LA to Tucson. After two years in AZ, I flushed again, again using Toyota red and distilled water, drained the block, same deal w/ the coathanger. This time, no deposits in the block...a good sign. The engine also runs cool, even when it's 106F outside and I'm at a stoplight. All I can say is, the red works in the heat here, and I'm willing to pay the $16/gal.
 
Beowulf said:
Post Whore,
Read #6 and quit padding.
-B-


:flipoff2:


Yer time will come.
 
Rich said:
So nothing above states or supports that the waterpump seal is not designed for silicate containing antifreeze, right?

Well to each his own interpretation, but when a manufacturer installs, subsequently recommends and labels its red coolant as being "extremely compatible with non-metallic materials" (like seals), I would say that they designed the pump to be used with that antifreeze. Or at least, believe it to have a greater lifespan as a result of the use of the prescribed coolant.
 
I do appreciate the difference in formulation between the two coolants, having spent a fair amount of my time researching the same in the past with regards to the grey sludge that had clogged my radiator.

I fully expect all of my engine seals are fully compatible with Prestone coolant, and if they weren't, I would expect Toyota to say so.

I also expect, but don't know for a fact, that plain old Prestone coolant meets Toyota's published requirements for antifreeze to be used in my '97 Land Cruiser, and would certainly be interested to be informed if that were not the case.
 
I would not be suprised that Toyota would claim benefits, including longer life of waterpump, with its coolant. But that is a big difference from stating that the seals are not designed for use with the most commonly available coolant in use at the time the Land Cruiser was sold. I would expect that the waterpump seal is made from the same common materials that have been in use for years.
 
A good read on the different coolants. I use the Toyota red, but Prestone green seams OK also.


http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/082004_04.html

Japanese vehicles. This is a problem area, because Japanese-spec coolants have never been sold in the U.S. aftermarket and history says conventional American coolants work well in these vehicles. Toyota research indicates the new extended-life coolant contains phosphates to protect the water pump, and DexCool contains no phosphate. Honda has said it will not use a coolant with 2-EHA. So both carmakers exclude DexCool. Best solution with aftermarket coolants: Do a complete coolant exchange, and replace the Japanese OE coolant-conventional or extended-life -with conventional American or G-05.



Peebles I think you are confusing Toyota Red with DexCool Orange, DexCool is a coolant that causes some problems even in cars designed for it, I am with you that I would never use it in a Toyota.

The Toyota red is different.



wile we are talking about coolant, always use with distilled water, it is very cheap and can save you from a lot of problems if there are minerals or contaminants in your tap water, I even did a distilled water flush to get out the tap water used for flushing.
 
First of all, I need to state that I really don't know crap about antifreeze. I only know what I've read here on the forum.

With that being said, my toyota dealer flushed and filled my LC with green coolant (when I specificlaly asked for red, due to comments on this board). Upon discovering this I was pissed off and called the service advisor. He told me that it had had green in it and that is why they filled it with green.

Now I specifically recall looking both in the overflow and in the radiator through the cap and seeing red. However, I have no recourse, they claim it had green I say red, what am I gonna do...

Anyhow, I just wanted to post this up to say that some toyota dealers are putting green coolant in the vehicle. Not to say it is okay or right, but just that it is happening.

Here's to hoping I don't develop sludge problems down the road because of this.

BTW there is a lesson here and it is that I should have just done my own flush and fill. Then I'd know for sure exactly what has been done and done right.

Charlie
 
CharlieS said:
BTW there is a lesson here and it is that I should have just done my own flush and fill. Then I'd know for sure exactly what has been done and done right.

Charlie

That is the biggest lesson I have learned on this forum and in conversing with everyone here--good or bad.

That said, the only thing a Toy. dealer has done to my truck is put in cat-back OEM exhaust.

Everything else has been done by me (and basically by the sage wisdom on these boards.).
-o-
 
CharlieS said:
BTW there is a lesson here and it is that I should have just done my own flush and fill. Then I'd know for sure exactly what has been done and done right.

Charlie


Amen to that Brother.
 
Pesky Heater Hose - I think there is a good description in the FAQ section. Nasty little heater hose hidden at the back of the engine block. Also a good writeup at the sleeoffroad.com site if I remember correctly.

Charlie
 
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I use the red toyota stuff only, my rig has 180,000 miles on it and my radiator looks great, my phh went out at around 160,000 miles, that was the biggest pain in the ass I have had to deal with on my cruiser to date!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
The cycle is returning. I know their is a couple of discussions on this in the Archives. I use toyota red for people that want it. I will not use toyota red in my 80 series or older toyota vechicles I own period. I have seen too much. i will use green and flush it once a year. I do beileve that if you have a newer cruiser or newer truck with the MLS head gaskets, the red is great. Just my 2cents. When using the red for customers I do warn that they change at a minimum every second year if not every year.
PHH is a case of Electro chemical degrdation, hot source, short piece of rubber, steel pipe. Setting in place break down due to electrolisis. Some worse than others, a good deal of cases I have seen have been in conjuction with poor coolant replacement.
Make a choice and stick with it, if changing coolants, flush real good.
Good luck robbie
 
I'm lead to believe the original factory fill in Toyotas and hondas made in Japan is already pre-mixed. You just dump it in. But we can't get that version here. The Toyota red here is made in the states (different recipe, or just twice as concentrated?)
 

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