Proper installation of differential (3rd) paper gasket (2 Viewers)

[rhyary]

What is the Toyota way to install the gasket?
What is the ih8mud way?

Just the paper? FIPG on both sides? One side?
Doing it tonight and advise is appreciated.

Rami

 

[Dave 2000]

I have seen many cars (inc 80s) with no paper gasket just the FIPG. If you want the 'belts and braces' approach I would use a normal silicone gasket paste on both sides of the gasket. I think FIPG is for 'metal to metal' surfaces not metal to paper ect, can someone help me with this perhaps having a tube to hand?

regards

Dave

 

[KLF]

The "OEM" way is to install it dry.

There is no consistent preferred way, everybody has their own preference. Some people just go with a dry gasket, some just use RTV with no gasket, etc. I personally put a very thin layer of RTV/FIPG on each side of the gasket, just in case there is a gouge or defect on the housing(s) that might leak, and it makes it much easier to peel off the next time I'm in there. A razor scraper peels it right off, then a quick buff with a Scotchbrite biscuit in my die grinder.

 

[rhyary]

Speaking of cleaning the old gasket. I spend quite a lot of time scraping the old paper gasket with a razor. Excuse my ignorance, but can some one point me to a power tool that is good to use for cleaning gasket surfaces. I am sure it is some kind of rotating machine, but I see many kinds and have not idea which one is good for what job.

Rami

 

[jonheld]

Coming from the folks that John Hocker trust, after both surfaces are completely clean and you are ready to install the thin paper gasket, lightly wet the paper with clean water and reassemble. I used this meathod with great success for both diffs.

To clean the mating surfaces, remove all studs and use a die grinder with a ScotchBrite pad on it. It makes very quick work of it and leaves a very nice mating surface. An old KLF trick.

 

[rhyary]

Thanks Jon. Will do it tonight. So you are in the paper only camp?
Any link you can provide to a recommended die grinder

*EDIT - never mind I googled die-grinder. But now I have to ask angle or straight?

 

[rhyary]

More specifically to the wetting method. So you mean submerge the paper gasket and install it wet on the studs and then mount the diff?

or when the paper is on the studs, wet it with you fingers?

My concern with making it too wet is tearing it. Putting it on the studs was somewhat tricky and I tore the first one (I had two per landtank advice).

 

[Dave 2000]

In the UK they used to sell a spray gasket remover, it worked like upholstery cleaner, spray it on, let it foam and a few minutes later wipe off with a dry rag. I have been out of the UK for quite awhile so I am unsure of it's name or if it is still around.

I will try to find out when I'm over there next week.

regards

Dave

 

[TCH2FLY]

OEM paper gaskets work fine in many cases. I have done it both ways, currently my back diff is paper and my front is FIPG.

For paper I would use a gasket dressing (I suppose the water suggestion is valid) not FIPG before the install

Your sig lines says you are locked and I would strongly suggest that you consider straight FIPG for the the front diff.
It depends on the type wheeling you do and situations where you run locked. Running locked on tight firm surfaces (rock crawling) can cause the entire 3rd member to shift (rotate) slightly from side to side. Even though it is a very tiny movement this can actually tear the paper gasket and cause leaks. I have seen this on several rigs and the reason I switched to FIPG. The back does not seem to suffer from the same troubles.

Best of luck

 

[450 DUDE]

Just use Silicone .

ken

 

[SUMOTOY]

The "OEM" way is to install it dry.

There is no consistent preferred way, everybody has their own preference. Some people just go with a dry gasket, some just use RTV with no gasket, etc. I personally put a very thin layer of RTV/FIPG on each side of the gasket, just in case there is a gouge or defect on the housing(s) that might leak, and it makes it much easier to peel off the next time I'm in there. A razor scraper peels it right off, then a quick buff with a Scotchbrite biscuit in my die grinder.

New paper gaskets should be installed dry. That said, to assure that there is no chance of leakage, KLF's above method is the one I routinely use for any 'fluid' retaining gasket as well. A very thin layer of silicone, like just 'appears' silicone wet on both sides (or permatex anaerobic gasket spray works well too). The tendency is to use too much, which isn't a big deal in a diff application, but can be in engine and transmission gasketing.

HTH and my .02

Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged

 

[jjhancock]

OEM paper gaskets work fine in many cases. I have done it both ways, currently my back diff is paper and my front is FIPG.

Your sig lines says you are locked and I would strongly suggest that you consider FIPG for the the front diff.
It depends on the type wheeling you do and situations where you run locked. Running locked on tight firm surfaces (rock crawling) can cause the entire 3rd member to shift (rotate) slightly from side to side. Even though it is a very tiny movement this can actually tear the paper gasket and cause leaks. I have seen this on several rigs and the reason I switched to FIPG. The back does not seem to suffer from the same troubles.

Best of luck

Perfect timing for this thread as I'm going to be going through this in two weeks when I swap 3rd members. I had never heard of using FIPG at all in this scenario, but if it's good enough for TCH2FLY, who wheels in the same locale as I do, then it's good enough for me

 

[gotmud]

Keep in mind those 3M Roloc disks will not only remove your old gasket, they'll take away some of the metal as well, and create an uneven mating surface. Even the softer "purple" disks will remove material if you are not careful. If you do use them, I would spray the paper gasket with some type of silicone spray to fill in the imperfections in both mounting surfaces.

 

[jonheld]

More specifically to the wetting method. So you mean submerge the paper gasket and install it wet on the studs and then mount the diff?

or when the paper is on the studs, wet it with you fingers?

My concern with making it too wet is tearing it. Putting it on the studs was somewhat tricky and I tore the first one (I had two per landtank advice).

I lightly wet the gasket front and rear with a wet paper towel. I had no issues with tearing, but I didn't have a big Turkish coffee before hand and went slow.

Didn't have any issue with using Scotchbrite pads with a die grinder. Made a nice mating surface. No leaks for the last year or so.

 

[Tools R Us]

I never use the gasket, just silicone. Find that the nuts stay tight, no gasket to spit out and no leaks.

 

[concretejungle]

Just FYI, when i put my aussie in, i forgot to get the paper gasket and wanted the locker in ASAP, so i used FIPG. Been good for a long while now. My front pinion is leaking, so when i rebuild my front end, i will use FIPG.

 

[corsair23]

What my "advisor" told me to do is:

Light coating of FIPG on the diff housing, paper gasket, then light coating of FIPG on the 3rd member and assemble. Maybe overkill but he says they never leak and makes getting the gasket off the next time if needed a lot easier.

If it matters my "advisor" is one of those super Toyota techs that Toyota sends in when guys at the dealership can't figure out a problem...Like anything there are probably a dozen ways of doing this that will net you good results so pick the one you like and go with it.

Edit: One thing I forgot to ask is whether it matters which way the gasket goes? If there is one side that is supposed to face the housing and one side that is supposed to face the 3rd member...Or am I just overthinking things as usual...

 

[josharre2000]

I just did this about a month ago. I scraped the diff housing and the 3rd member 1st to make sure the mating surfaces were good and free of the old gasket. I then installed the gasket on the diff housing dry and installed the 3rd member. Remember to torque the nuts in a cris-cross manner. No issues yet. However, I do like the idea of using some red diff sealant just in-case there are some high/low spots on the mating surfaces.

 

[concretejungle]

I scraped the diff housing and the 3rd member 1st to make sure the mating surfaces were good and free of the old gasket.

yep, plus i used some brake cleaner to make sure they were grease/oil free so the FIPG would stick well. So far so good.

 

[Ihasfip]

I used just black silicone. It is called "The Right Stuff". It is expensive and comes in a can with a nozzle. Works very well, and is the only thing my shop uses.

D