Is there any they can add countersunk holes to this so all I have to do is install nutserts and screws? I'm looking for the easy way out I know I'll "F" it up if I drill the holes myself.
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WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Yes they can. The only problem is that you have to tell them exactly where.
If someone hasn't done it by the time I get around to doing it, I could send them my carpet and just let them keep it/throw it away when they are done with it. That would make this an even simpler install and you wouldn't have to by a counter sink bit.
Thanks, wearsabrowncoat! Best advise I can tell you is to take your time and get tailgate as straight as possible with cdan's method, mentioned earlier in thread, before installing nutserts and plate. The biggest challenge was getting the nut & fender washer on the eyebolt inside the limited access that the tailgate provides. Patience is your friend!
WarDamnEagle, nice job on your 4runner! I like your router bit idea for the edges. It prolly has much nicer results than just filing the edges like I did.
IMHO, I don't see any downside to this mod. I keep the carpet piece (minus the clips, of course) in the back, ready to put over aluminum plate in case the sun makes it unbearable to sit on or use while tailgate is open on an outing. It helps to cover the plywood shelf on my "el cheapo" rear drawer storage mod, when not in use.
I was in contact from someone from Great Lakes Waterjet Inc. http://store.greatlakeswaterjetinc.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=GLW1 about a year ago and he said he could make one for an 80 tailgate with finished edges, holes, and powder coated if I wanted it, but was too busy at the time. It sounded like he had the specs. for the holes already. If someone like Nicholas wants to donate his carpet that would be great, mine is busted up and would not be a good template. I need this bad my tailgate is warped badly and hasn't had the carpet on it for years.
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I could probably donate my carpet but I don't have the $$ right now, so I'd rather not run around without carpet.
Perhaps if we could get a group buy and a price together, I might be able to swing something. I have very limited time, so having the edges beveled or routed and holes countersunk would be great.
My rear hatch leaks so I'm worried I'll run into a mold problem this winter if I don't get the gate straightened. The
is allergic for mold, so maybe this could help my case. 
A group buy is a great idea. I'm sure there are more than the two of us who want one of these so we need a carpet donor for a template. Next step is to gage interest for a group buy. I agree with you on having a completely finished product, I don't want to have to mess around with this all day I want add nutserts and screws and be done. Where is the source of your leak? My tailgate is warped at the bottom but no water comes up. It had been leaking from the rear hatch seal, the rear glass seal, and the belt moldings under the sliding windows I replaced all of the and was fine. Pull out the rear carpet and all of the plastic trim and the leaks will appear.I could probably donate my carpet but I don't have the $$ right now, so I'd rather not run around without carpet.
Perhaps if we could get a group buy and a price together, I might be able to swing something. I have very limited time, so having the edges beveled or routed and holes countersunk would be great.
My rear hatch leaks so I'm worried I'll run into a mold problem this winter if I don't get the gate straightened. The
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Just a couple of thoughts:
You could just get someone, like Wearsabrowncoat, to take the centerline measurements off their holes.
You need to decide what size screw to use as well. If you go ansi then I would suggest 1/4". Dan used 6mm which is just under 1/4". I used 8mm on my 4Runner mainly for alignment purposes. I knew that the nutsert and the holes in the aluminum had to line up exactly. I drilled the 8mm holes in the sheet and then lined the sheet up on the tailgate and drilled out the square holes in the tailgate with an 8mm bit. My holes were thus aligned perfectly. Of course I had to be careful as they then had to be drilled out to 11mm for the nutserts. I used a regular bit but a stepdrill would have been better for the alignment.
I used allen head screws as I prefer that look but any 1/4", flathead screw would work.
You could just get someone, like Wearsabrowncoat, to take the centerline measurements off their holes.
You need to decide what size screw to use as well. If you go ansi then I would suggest 1/4". Dan used 6mm which is just under 1/4". I used 8mm on my 4Runner mainly for alignment purposes. I knew that the nutsert and the holes in the aluminum had to line up exactly. I drilled the 8mm holes in the sheet and then lined the sheet up on the tailgate and drilled out the square holes in the tailgate with an 8mm bit. My holes were thus aligned perfectly. Of course I had to be careful as they then had to be drilled out to 11mm for the nutserts. I used a regular bit but a stepdrill would have been better for the alignment.
I used allen head screws as I prefer that look but any 1/4", flathead screw would work.
I'm no metal fabricator, but I've enough experience in similar situations to say that just donating carpet would not be complete for a run of these aluminum panels. If they can't get a blueprint of the tailgate from Toyota, for precise hole locations, the next best thing would be for Great Western Metals to have access to an 80 to make a prototype to insure hole locations are correct. This needs to be done correctly or it will open up a can of worms. This place is in Texas, right? Where in Texas? Can some Mudder from nearby help out?
IMHO, if this isn't done, it could get ugly, quick.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
That's why I drilled the holes myself. I suspect when you price out the complete package versus just the plate, cut to size, that many will not like the price; but I could be wrong.
To answer your question, they are in Houston.
Perfecly aligned holes in the panel will not insure a perfect fit. There is still going to be some custom fitting required. When the nutserts are compressed they sometimes "wander" off-center slightly and the threaded insert will not be perfectly centered in the opening. Been there, done that.
I agree that having them look at an 80 tailgate would be the best, like I said I think they already had the hole specifications but could be wrong. In addition, are the tailgates the same from 1991-97
I just looked in my PM bin and discovered that I was talking to David at Great Lakes Waterjet Inc. Great Lakes Waterjet, Inc. not Great Western Metals, sorry for the mix up its been a while and I forgot. I just PM'd him again I'll let you know if he gets back to me, he is a Mud member with an 80
George
George
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For the benefit of anyone interested in the fasteners that I used in my tailgate (re: post#58), here is some info & pics. I called them nutserts, but I guess maybe that's not correct. They worked quite well - better than I expected - and no modification or drilling was required to the 80's tailgate. As I said, these fasteners were bought at my local True Value Hardware store. This particular store (Redmond, OR) has the whole rear wall dedicated to nuts, bolts, washers and the like - an excellent selection for the area. Several sizes and 2 depths were available. I chose 6-32, shallow (since I was clamping to sheet metal tailgate). Cost of hardware including screws and install tool was approx. $10 for quantity of 18. I got a couple of spares - just in case - which worked out because I stripped out one using a Makita (trying to save time) and I had one left for these pics.
Now, these fasteners work well because I ended up completely removing aluminum panel after install to recover a tool left (somehow - don't ask!) inside tailgate. Couldn't find the damn thing, looked for 2 days. Retracing my steps, I thought "I wonder if-". I removed aluminum panel and access cover in tailgate. Looked inside and there it was -
- waving back at me! Aluminum panel actually went on easier the second time.
Installation is pretty simple. Insert a 1 1/4" screw through the correct size hole in install tool (dimples facing fastener) and into top of fastener and tighten screw by hand snugly. Dimples in tool correspond with dimples in fastener and help fastener resist turning during install. Insert fastener, with tool attached, into a hole in tailgate and with one hand holding tool, use screwdriver to tighten screw. Fastener will collapse and expand inside tailgate to hold fastener. You can feel a distinct increase in force needed to turn screwdriver when fastener is fully collapsed. I went about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn to be sure. This needs to be done by hand so you can feel when it's fully collapsed, otherwise you will prolly strip it out like I did, once. The fasteners end up snug but will still "float" a limited amount, with some pressure, to line up with holes in aluminum panel.
I know there are stronger fasteners available. I don't think they are necessary, considering there's 16 that will hold this panel on. And these are backwards compatible - meaning I can remove aluminum plate, remove fasteners, and reinstall carpet with stock clips, if necessary. Pics show fastener, install tool (2 sided - one end for larger fasteners) and I included an original carpet panel clip for size comparison.
Now, these fasteners work well because I ended up completely removing aluminum panel after install to recover a tool left (somehow - don't ask!) inside tailgate. Couldn't find the damn thing, looked for 2 days. Retracing my steps, I thought "I wonder if-". I removed aluminum panel and access cover in tailgate. Looked inside and there it was -
- waving back at me! Aluminum panel actually went on easier the second time.Installation is pretty simple. Insert a 1 1/4" screw through the correct size hole in install tool (dimples facing fastener) and into top of fastener and tighten screw by hand snugly. Dimples in tool correspond with dimples in fastener and help fastener resist turning during install. Insert fastener, with tool attached, into a hole in tailgate and with one hand holding tool, use screwdriver to tighten screw. Fastener will collapse and expand inside tailgate to hold fastener. You can feel a distinct increase in force needed to turn screwdriver when fastener is fully collapsed. I went about another 1/2 to 3/4 turn to be sure. This needs to be done by hand so you can feel when it's fully collapsed, otherwise you will prolly strip it out like I did, once. The fasteners end up snug but will still "float" a limited amount, with some pressure, to line up with holes in aluminum panel.
I know there are stronger fasteners available. I don't think they are necessary, considering there's 16 that will hold this panel on. And these are backwards compatible - meaning I can remove aluminum plate, remove fasteners, and reinstall carpet with stock clips, if necessary. Pics show fastener, install tool (2 sided - one end for larger fasteners) and I included an original carpet panel clip for size comparison.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Speaking as someone who has gone through a custom piece Group Buy when doing the York brackets through Great Lakes Water Jet, I would suggest finding someone else, like maybe Great Western Metals in TX as was mentioned. I don't want to get into the specifics, just that I would recommend other than GLWJ.
Well as of today no one has gotten back to me from Great Lakes Water Jet any way to get a 80 over to Great Western Metals for a template? Anyone???
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Another suggestion before you go to too much trouble. Get on the phone with Great Western, reference the drawing number and tell them what you would like in addition (e.g. 16 1/4 holes, countersunk for x type of screw, 1/16 radius edges on top, etc.) and get a quote. They won't need the exact hole locations to give you a price. They are very easy to deal with on the phone in my experience.
You know the price for the bare plate shipped already. I think you need to know what the fully fabricated piece is going to cost before you go any further to make sure that you still want to do it. Just my 2 cents.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
What size are the holes in the tailgate that the plastic connectors go into? Could someone with their 80 handy (mine's in a different continent from me) post a photo with the carpet off and maybe a hole size?
The holes are 8mm.
I'm going to call Great Western on Monday to see if they have shipped yet. If not I'm going to check on having them round the top edge. A carbide router bit cost over $20 and I am guessing they can do it for less than that.
If they had the blueprint on file I would have them drill and counter sink the holes as well. I considered shipping them my carpet but have to agree with Cdan - there is too much slop using the carpet as a blueprint for an accurate product. I say this because even with all 16 of the plastic connectors in, the carpet still slides around slightly. If you have ever had the carpet off you will know what I am talking about. The plastic connectors slide into an over sized hole and float around a bit.
Now if they had an actual tailgate to work from I think they could make it work.
