3sp with a 327...which clutch should I get??? (1 Viewer)

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I posted a thread a couple of days ago regarding a 71 Cruiser I just purchased form CO and had it shipped to me in PA. When the transport co. pulled it off the trailer I couldn't drive it. When I put it in gear and let out the clutch it wouldn't do anything. I had to put it in 4low and limp it to my dad's shop (not even a 1/4 mile away thank God). I talked to the PO last night and he swears I'm not engaging the 4 wheel drive system correctly. It's the vaccuum setup with the knob and lever under the dash. I'm almost positive it's the clutch. When I put it in 4low (lever and knob pulled completely towards me) it moved, but I had to tach the s*** out of it to go anywhere. When I put it in 2hi(lever pulled all the way towards firewall and knob pushed in, green light off) I get nothing at all. I checked to see if there was anything in the way of the lever under the dash and it was clear of any obstructions. It goes in and out of gear pretty easy. I checked at the t/case under the truck and the lever moved freely as well. I was by myself so I couldn't see if it was moving when I was engaging it inside the truck, but I have my buddy coming to help me tomorrow. I'm a newbie to the older style t/case setup on the FJ's, but I'm far from a newbie to automobiles. I highly doubt I am operating the t/case lever incorrectly. I've tried it about 85 times in all different combinations and they all resulted in the same outcome....STUCK IN THE SAME SPOT I STARTED!!!! My main question is what's a good clutch to use? It's the stock 3 speed mated to a chevy 327. It will be a 50% off road 50% on road vehicle so I want something that has a little more strength than the stock clutch.
 
Assuming all your gears and shift lever choices are working properly, that only leaves clutch or slave cylinder adjustment:
(a) Slave cylinder could be adjusted to where you are getting full disengagement, but never getting full engagement (i.e. clutch slipping when it should be fully engaged). This is the adjustment people mistakenly go to when they are using a clutch that their Toyota hydralics won't fully disengage.
(b) Downey and AA for many many years have made Chevota clutches that take less travel to disengage. Yet many on this forum say to use a Luk something or other because a more expensive Downey or AA clutch is not needed, and that theirs works perfectly fine. I'm glad that this works for them, and I'm all for anything that works fine and cost less, BUT I can't count the times customers have reported that their non-Downey/AA clutch didn't work after all. And if this sounds like I'm pimping product, by all means feel free to buy from AA, just don't buy something that does not work for most people.
 
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When I put it in 2hi(lever pulled all the way towards firewall and knob pushed in, green light off) I get nothing at all. I checked to see if there was anything in the way of the lever under the dash and it was clear of any obstructions.

YOur transfer case could be in neutral. I've had that problem before. Crawl under there and try to put it in 2hi by hand. There is the posibility that there is enough slop in the linkage to not engage it into 2 hi. take a look and maybe a picture and get back to us.
 
check your clutch fork and see if it has play in it ,if not then shorten the clutch rod till it does .if it still does not go its probably the clutch.there is no part in or out if it moves you have it in some gear .being that it moved a little im geussing low range.adjust the clutch first or make sure its adjusted right then go from there.screw the guy you bought it from he aint gonna help you someone on mud will fix you up good luck
 
if you plan on taking this rig offroad, then i would highly recomment getting rid of the 3spd. judging by your post in the classifieds, you already know everything about transmissions and conversions so i'm amazed to see you even considering keeping the 3spd in there.

fwiw, jim aka downey is right on the money once again.
 
if you plan on taking this rig offroad, then i would highly recomment getting rid of the 3spd. judging by your post in the classifieds, you already know everything about transmissions and conversions so i'm amazed to see you even considering keeping the 3spd in there.

fwiw, jim aka downey is right on the money once again.

Don't have the parts or $$$ to convert to a 4sp right now. Probably going to be putting in an SM420, but want to drive it for the summer with the 3sp.
 
Assuming all your gears and shift lever choices are working properly, that only leaves clutch or slave cylinder adjustment:
(a) Slave cylinder could be adjusted to where you are getting full disengagement, but never getting full engagement (i.e. clutch slipping when it should be fully engaged). This is the adjustment people mistakenly go to when they are using a clutch that their Toyota hydralics won't fully disengage.
(b) Downey and AA for many many years have made Chevota clutches that take less travel to disengage. Yet many on this forum say to use a Luk something or other because a more expensive Downey or AA clutch is not needed, and that theirs works perfectly fine. I'm glad that this works for them, and I'm all for anything that works fine and cost less, BUT I can't count the times customers have reported that their non-Downey/AA clutch didn't work after all. And if this sounds like I'm pimping product, by all means feel free to buy from AA, just don't buy something that does not work for most people.

Listen to Slim-Jim Sickles. He knows what he's talkin about.

Flash
 
Assuming all your gears and shift lever choices are working properly, that only leaves clutch or slave cylinder adjustment:
(a) Slave cylinder could be adjusted to where you are getting full disengagement, but never getting full engagement (i.e. clutch slipping when it should be fully engaged). This is the adjustment people mistakenly go to when they are using a clutch that their Toyota hydralics won't fully disengage.
(b) Downey and AA for many many years have made Chevota clutches that take less travel to disengage. Yet many on this forum say to use a Luk something or other because a more expensive Downey or AA clutch is not needed, and that theirs works perfectly fine. I'm glad that this works for them, and I'm all for anything that works fine and cost less, BUT I can't count the times customers have reported that their non-Downey/AA clutch didn't work after all. And if this sounds like I'm pimping product, by all means feel free to buy from AA, just don't buy something that does not work for most people.

Jim
I put a downey clutch in an 85 4runner I had a few years back and it was a great clutch, but it was like I had to relearn how to feel a clutch all over again. I stalled about four times when I first tried it after the install. I thought it was a defective clutch or I FUBAR'd the install. 95% of all the toyotas I've owned (and it's way over 30 now) with stock clutches would let out pretty high. The downey clutch pretty much let out immediately. It was great for wheelin'. I'm probably going to be ordering one of them this week or early next week if adjusting the slave doesn't work. Thanks for your input.
 

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