Tranny overheat - maybe? (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

My transmission overheat light came on today while driving over the pass on my way back to Spokane for about an hour. I stopped, checked the fluid and it was still full and didn't smell burnt at all. Didn't feel too much heat coming from the transmission itself (not enough to make me think it was actually overheating that is) and when I started back up the light stayed off for the rest of the drive back to Spokane, even in stop-and-go driving and climbing uphill on the highway in 3rd gear. It initially came on while cruising on a long downhill slope, so I can't see why that would generate enough heat to trigger the light. Thing is though, when I came off the highway in Spokane, I got a real strong whiff of hot (not burnt, just hot) ATF inside the cabin, when I stopped at the first traffic light. Checked everything inside and out and saw no leaks or anything that could've caused the smell. Hopefully I was just smelling it from another vehicle.

Is it likely the the sensor is going bad? Next fluid change it's getting a cooler and a gauge just so I canbe on the safe side. Who had installed the B&M cooler and had good results with it?

 

[Hank]

Many instances of the ATF temp light being on are directly related to failure or weakness in the charging system. Mine came on as many posts describe within hours of my alternator failing completely. Be sure to check all wiring, grounds and connections, terminals before testing the alternator. Replacing these alternators is expensive and foolish if a poor connection is at fault. There are posts with tech help to improve the wiring also.

HTH

 

[Spook50]

Many instances of the ATF temp light being on are directly related to failure or weakness in the charging system. Mine came on as many posts describe within hours of my alternator failing completely. Be sure to check all wiring, grounds and connections, terminals before testing the alternator. Replacing these alternators is expensive and foolish if a poor connection is at fault. There are posts with tech help to improve the wiring also.

HTH

I've had that problem before, so I kept an eye on my voltmeter too. Everything still looks good though. I'm going to take a look at the fusible links and make sure that stuff's good though. I pulled all my old PIAA fog light wiring out last week so I'll have to double check that and make sure I didn't leave something loose. My alternator's not even a year old (rebuild from a good local electric shop) so if it is in fact starting to have trouble, at least I can get a warranty replacement on it.

 

[Hank]

Then I would suspect the issue is your aussie sliding windows. Send them to me, I will deal with the hot transmission. I will send you my fixed windows.

OK, back to reality. Do you have access to one of those laser thermometers? If so, please go for a good drive and check your trans temp at the pan and input and output line temp at the cooler lines by the radiator. I had a restriction in my cooler heating mine up a couple years ago.

 

[Spook50]

Then I would suspect the issue is your aussie sliding windows. Send them to me, I will deal with the hot transmission. I will send you my fixed windows.

OK, back to reality. Do you have access to one of those laser thermometers? If so, please go for a good drive and check your trans temp at the pan and input and output line temp at the cooler lines by the radiator. I had a restriction in my cooler heating mine up a couple years ago.

Ooooohhh, interesting. Well I'll be doing the Rodney Flush hopefully next weekend and installing a temp gauge so that should give me an idea of its average temps. I want to install the gauge before adding the second cooler so that I can see how much of a difference the added cooler will make, and if my tranny actually is running hot.

 

[BG_TX]

Hopefully this isn't bad news but the smell of ATF doesn't sound good...

Is the rad stock/original or has it been replaced recently? I have heard from several people that install an aftermarket cooler to bypass the rad cooler since it allegedly attributes to overheating. I have no clue how true this is and I have read several posts where the rad cooler drops it a few degrees then the aftermarket attributes to the majority decrease.

I want an aftermarket cooler with surface area as large as my rad and I would bypass the rad too but I haven't found one that large...

Keep us posted on your gauge/sensor install if you don't mind. I saw where you resurrected one of my old posts about the sensor... I still haven't been able to source the small VDO sensor I need. I am going to have to pursue a different approach...

 

[Spook50]

Hopefully this isn't bad news but the smell of ATF doesn't sound good...

Is the rad stock/original or has it been replaced recently? I have heard from several people that install an aftermarket cooler to bypass the rad cooler since it allegedly attributes to overheating. I have no clue how true this is and I have read several posts where the rad cooler drops it a few degrees then the aftermarket attributes to the majority decrease.

I want an aftermarket cooler with surface area as large as my rad and I would bypass the rad too but I haven't found one that large...

Keep us posted on your gauge/sensor install if you don't mind. I saw where you resurrected one of my old posts about the sensor... I still haven't been able to source the small VDO sensor I need. I am going to have to pursue a different approach...

I haven't smelled it at all since that one time, so I'm thinking that may have been someone else's car. My radiator is a Performance Radiator OEM spec replacement that's been on there for something like 10 years now. Have never had any issues with it as far as leaks and by appearance the thing appears to be high quality (it was installed as the aftermarket alternative by the local dealer when I lived with my folks).

 

[Ming89FJ62]

Many instances of the ATF temp light being on are directly related to failure or weakness in the charging system. Mine came on as many posts describe within hours of my alternator failing completely. Be sure to check all wiring, grounds and connections, terminals before testing the alternator. Replacing these alternators is expensive and foolish if a poor connection is at fault. There are posts with tech help to improve the wiring also.

HTH

If the ATF doesn't smell burnt I'm going to agree w/ Hank. Had the A/T temp light come on for no apparent reason then nothing for about 3 weeks. After the 3 weeks I replaced the alternator.