knuckle;is all that moly grease really needed?? (1 Viewer)

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chapel gate

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after recently rebuilding the front steering knuckles, seals, bearings etc.

is all of that grease really needed? obviously the cv joint is packed with grease, but filling the knuckle 3/4s full, why? the outer knuckle housing swivels on the trunion bearings so grease isnt really needed in there the knuckle seals must just be for any grease that finds its way around there.

the filling port on top of the outer housing makes little sense to me. you have little idea of how much grease is allready in there if your topping up nor how much your putting in and when and why would it need topping up unless the grease is pissing out of the knuckle seals?

just thinking out loud really, any thoughts or answers?
 
IMHO the more the merrier.
 
Is it necessary?

IMO, yes. Why? Because Toyota says so (and grease is cheap, so why not)

:cheers:
 
"Where there is grease, there is not water...."
 
knuckle;is all that moly grease really needed??

Advanced SEARCH, 80-Section, author=Klunky Chris, keywords=rusted birfield (I think Chris was the one that had a completely dry and rusted birfield but I need to check.)

-B-
 
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beowolf, im not having any luck with the search, have you got a link?

what about opinions on the grease port?
 
beowolf, im not having any luck with the search, have you got a link?

what about opinions on the grease port?

It is Beowulf. :rolleyes:


Opinions vary on the effectiveness of adding grease to the grease port. Some opinions have changed over the years. If you need to add grease to your knuckles, the you can add it using that port and it will "mix" with the grease (or diff oil) that is already in the knuckle.

If you do the 60k mile service on your knuckles then you shouldn't have to add grease in the port, assuming you filled 3/4 full with moly grease as covered in the FAQ.

I thought it was Klunky Chris that posted a thread on a completely dry and rusted birfield that was busted in a couple hundred pieces. Maybe not.

-B-
 
aahhh s***, you mispelled wulfy's name. thats gonna cost you. ;)
 
beowolf, im not having any luck with the search, have you got a link?

what about opinions on the grease port?

Grease port is a stop-gap measure during oil changes and the like.

To really get grease where you need it (inside of the birfield bell itself) it is best to take the sucker apart and regrease.

Oh, and on keeping the knuckle housing 3/4 full with grease: the way it has been explained to me by a professional Toyota mechanic and 80 series expert has been that basically the grease baths the birfield and gives it an environment that keeps it cool under operation, keeps the metal lubricated--since it basically metal-on-metal in there--and ensures that water does not get in.

Seems like a rational and reasonably sound explanation and I follow it.
 
aahhh s***, you mispelled wulfy's name. thats gonna cost you. ;)

Still pushing that toilet paper crap I see. How's that working for ya?

-B-
 
We forgot to pack the drivers side when we did the rebuild. It still on racks while we finish the passenger side. I hope I can get enough grease in there from the fill port.
 
We forgot to pack the drivers side when we did the rebuild. It still on racks while we finish the passenger side. I hope I can get enough grease in there from the fill port.

You probably won't be able to. I would take it apart. This is an integral part of the entire job.
 
I really don't understand what you are suggesting John. Would you elaborate please?

-B-
 
In addition to the grease add a few ounces of synthetic gear oil if you operate in extreme cold with the hubs locked in.

Problem is that 99.9% of 80 series trucks came with full time 4 wheel drive which means that there are no hubs locked. They are locked all the time, unless one actually back engineers the 4 time system with a spool in the xfer diff. and hubs up front.

Rovers have a birfield design where the knuckles call for gear lube as opposed to moly grease.
 
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