Bad news, overheat (1 Viewer)

[amg2y]

Hi all,
Need a confirmation before I pull the trigger on HG job.
Condition: 96 FJ80 with 177K. Recently flush the coolant and refilled it with Toyota Red. Saw some grey sludge, but it seems that everyone has it too and I never had any overheating issue prior to the flush. I also replaced the belts (fan belt and condensor) just because I never replaced them before.
I drove it for a week and today the temp went up to 3/4 and lost my heat air to the cabin.
Did some reading and found a few suspect to check: Radiator cap, fan clutch, thermostat, or Head Gasket.
So when I pulled over and stop, the overflow tank.... well overflow and boiling.
After it cooled down, the radiator suck it back in. Now the overflow is at low level. But the radiator is full.
Check the bubble with engine running at idle speed after driving it for 4 miles. Saw bubble coming out of the hose in the overflow tank.
Check oil stick was fine, but the oil cap has milky moisture on it.
Then after turning off the engine the fan blade still spin about 1 or 2 cycle.
I thought it supposed to stop with the belt? Fan clutch issue as well??
Sorry for the long story, but I just want to make sure I am clearly describing the problem so I get a better solution/advice.
Thank you in advance.

Should I start looking for HG now or have it rebuilt?

 

[SeanAndHis80]

It sounds like it - to be sure you can get a block test kit at any parts store that will let you know for sure.

 

[amg2y]

I drove it to the shop today to get estimate and to double check if it is HG.
On the way there, figure something else again. First couple miles heater works fine in 35* weather outside. Then cut out, blows cold air for about 3miles. Until the temp reach 3/4, then the heater kicks in again. Again during the climb and back down to normal 1/2 mark on level road.
Got to the shop and they said to try replaced the thermostat and possible fan clutch since he noticed a little wiggle there. They also said the little moisture on under the oil cap is normal during the cold weather. It's the air trapped over night that create the moisture.
They can do a compression test to make sure.
Technically, I can do all this myself, but I feel guilty if I don't have them do it.
It's probably going to cost me a couple of hours of labor.
Pay up or Save up???
Does the HG have PM schedule? Or just replace them when they break?
Any comment/suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[alaskacruiser]

Try burping the cooling system- trapped air is one possible cause of your symptoms, esp. since you just did a coolant flush.

 

[amg2y]

Try burping the cooling system- trapped air is one possible cause of your symptoms, esp. since you just did a coolant flush.

How do I do this?
I drove it again some more today to run errand and picking up my kids and everything seems normal. Doing a lot of stop and go in the city, the gauge never go more than 1/2. Strange...
I picked up new fan clutch, thermostat, and new cap since I never change them ever.
Will do the bubble test again to make sure and compression test as well.
I have trip coming up to LA and I don't plan to get stranded in the middle of nowhere with a blown gasket.
Any other advice from you guys will be appreciated.

Or should I just do the HG and get it over with?

 

[Beowulf]

Does the HG have PM schedule? Or just replace them when they break?

Officially, Mr T would tell you the HG should last the life of the engine. As we know, they don't last that long in a high percentage of our vehicles. If you can have the truck down for 1 or 2 weeks and you have the tools, space, and skills, you should at least think about doing your HG as PM. It is still relatively expensive if you do the "while you are in there" things that we normally recommend. You would be looking at $500 for machine shop, $100 for injector cleaning, $400 for parts, and $200 misc things like hoses, cleaning supplies, and things like that. Figure $1,000 to $1,200. Add another $1,200 if you have to pay someone to change the HG.

Do the bubble test again after you are sure the fan clutch is working properly.

-B-

 

[HomersCanyonero]

A few years ago I had a similar problem. Changed from green coolant to red coolant, but I didn't seem to get all the green out. The green/red mixture clogged my radiator.

I started to overheat on a hot day going uphill with the overflow bottle boiling with coolant. One shop changed the fan clutch with an aftermarket one, but that didn't fix the problem. They refunded my money and put my blue-hub fan clutch back on.

I went to the Toyota dealer and sent my radiator to a shop. It turns out it was clogged, so I got a new one from cdan and the Toyota dealer installed it. That was 40k miles ago and I haven't had any problems since then.

I still have the original head gasket. The moral of the story is that you could have a clogged rad that's causing the overheating. At least, that's what happened to me.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Quick comment that a compression test isn't a good HG test as a typical small leak in a HG won't make but a few PSI difference from cylinder to cylinder - easily small enough that it would not be noticed.

I'd definitely send a sample immediately to Blackstone labs, or find a large diesel garage in your area that can do it on the spot such as a Caterpiller or Cummins dealer. That's a definitive "oil in the coolant" test. I'd look into another auto parts store test if that's not possible.

You do sound like something's amiss so I'd keep at it - properly get rid of any air in the system, etc. Don't head off out of town like that, or you're sure to be paying someone halfway to LA 400% what it would normally cost.

DougM

 

[illcruiser]

I had this problem on a 4runner not on my 80 but it turned out to be the thermostat stuck closed, If it hasn't been done in a while its worth doing anyway and its not too much work.

 

[cruiserdan]

today the temp went up to 3/4 and lost my heat air to the cabin.

The head gasket is toast.

 

[tblume]

that sounds like someone who knows

bummer

 

[amg2y]

The head gasket is toast.

So I went to local cruiser shop to have it check up yesterday.
And as I mentioned it did went up to 3/4 twice and went back down to 1/2 on the way to the shop.
On the way home and drove around town doing errands and pick up some parts, temp was normal (1/2 at gauge)
Drove it back to the shop again, nothing.
Everything normal, in fact I drove it with the heater off and lever at cold setting.
So I had them change the thermostat, fan clutch and cap anyway.
I asked them again if the HG is bad or not and they confident that the HG still good. I guess they wouldn't mind getting another $1000 worth of labor, but they didn't really push for it.
I was referred to this guys by the local cruiser club member and they work mainly on cruisers.
Did the bubble test again after the thermostat and fan clutch change and NO Bubble.

The smoke that I thought I was concern about turns out to be normal. Since the engine was cold as well as the temp outside (35*).
Oil is clean, no more boiling water in the radiator or overflow bottle, heard a louder roar after the fan clutch swap.

I'm going to keep an eye on it for the next few weeks.
Do I still need to be concern with HG?

 

[e9999]

Does not sound like a sure HG.
I take it you did not see significant loss in coolant in the overflow tank after last refill either?
(mark level, be sure you do it a the same temp)

 

[amg2y]

Just went I thought I was out of the wood, PHH blew on Friday night.
Spend 3 hours Saturday and 2 hours Sunday to fix it.
Good thing I just order the Samco hose last week.
Now I understand how pita is this work.
I didn't have long enough tool to loosen the lower bracket bolt, so I had to bend the pipe a bit to get the hose out and in.
You guys who can do it less than 2 hours, I salute you!!!
So truck back on the road again. I've been monitoring the temp every minute I'm driving. So far it's stuck in the middle and no more.
Checked level for fluid and any leak. All good.
Hopefully stays that way. Planning to take a longer drive this weekend to make sure. Since my commute is only 4 miles.
Thanks for everyones help. Please chime in if there anything else I should do or keep an eye on.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

By the way, you need to get the ScanGaugeII to monitor the coolant temperature more closely. It's only $150 for the SG2, but it's money well spent.

You will be able to see the coolant temp in actual degrees rather than waiting for the slow moving water temp gauge to react.

 

[amg2y]

Yeah, thanks.
I've been thinking about getting the SGII for a while.
I guess I'll get it this time.
I'll justify the paranoid in me.