oh EDIC, what art thou problem (1 Viewer)

[narpod]

My 3B engine won't run in the ON position.

This morning I was bleeding my power steering system, turning the car on and off frequently. Then when I went to run it for longer than a second, it wouldn't. It seems the EDIC works in the START position, but once the key returns to ON, it closes the fuel delivery.

Does anyone have any idea how or why it wouldn't suddenly stop working like that?

PLEASE and thanks,

 

[Tapage]

did you already check the EDIC arm movement from the start position to the on position .. ?

I would start with the simple things .. clearing, oiling etc .. then start looking for missin V on the EDIC realy or motor ..

then other option ( not to solve the main issue ) should be adjust the arm to run position at on ..

 

[lostmarbles]

Turn the key on, then disconnect the "low oil pressure cut-out switch" (with the engine off/not-running).

Then check what position the EDIC fuel-control-lever is in.

Note that the fuel-control-lever should be in the "run position" with the oil switched disconnected. And it should move back to the "off position" whenever you reconnect the oil switch (because the engine isn't running and so the switch will have closed-contacts because it won't sense any oil pressure).

If you find that the EDIC is indeed stuck in the "off position" (with key "on" and oil switch disconnected) - Then stick your head under the bonnet/hood and jiggle the wires that lead to the EDIC motor. In this way, you may be able to find a loose connection (or broken wire) type of fault. (You may also be able to find if the mechanism is simply sticking by tapping the EDIC motor gently.)

Just an idea (and I'm assuming you have the same wiring as my BJ40).

 

[narpod]

Thanks for your advice. I got a helper, so I was able to observe the EDIC arm. It does in fact move through the 3 positions, start, on, and stop, but as soon as it moves to on, it shuts off. I will try adjusting the arm length, but I find it strange that it worked fine one minute, and then stopped the next.
Seems to be the way it goes with the old girl.

what's a missing V? is that shorthand for something?

Thanks again,

 

[Joe Egolf]

Missing V ,I think he is talking about electrical connections , ie no voltage??

 

[lostmarbles]

.... It does in fact move through the 3 positions, start, on, and stop, but as soon as it moves to on, it shuts off. ......

I take it from this that you see your EDIC move your fuel-control lever correctly except that it won't KEEP the lever in the "run position" once your engine is started. (Instead -the lever moves back to "stop" and shuts your engine down).

...I will try adjusting the arm length........

This is not something I would do (unless the locknut for adjusting its length had worked loose).

What about oil pressure? Do you have any sign of it building up on your gauge when your engine starts?

I mention this because if your engine fails to build oil pressure the EDIC is designed to shut it down.

If you DO see pressure building on your gauge (before your engine dies) then perhaps the "oil pressure cut-out switch" (which the EDIC uses to sense whether it should keep the engine running or not) has become faulty.

This is what the "oil pressure gauge sender unit" and "oil pressure EDIC switch" look like on my B engine:



They are on my oil cooler but on your engine I believe they screw into your block instead (and should be easy enough for you to identify)

 

[narpod]

Thanks a million for the detailed reply. I will check the oil pressure switch. However, what I meant to say earlier is that the EDIC does work through the 3 different settings:
-when I turn key to START = overinject
-when I let the key rest in the ON position = the EDIC returns to the middle RUN position, but the engine stops getting fuel and shuts down
-after about 5 seconds, the EDIC switches to the OFF position

Anyway, I'll keep you posted.

 

[lostmarbles]

...-when I let the key rest in the ON position = the EDIC returns to the middle RUN position, but the engine stops getting fuel and shuts down
-after about 5 seconds, the EDIC switches to the OFF position

Anyway, I'll keep you posted.

Oh. I misunderstood..... Sorry

So the engine dies but either

• the EDIC isn't responsible for shutting it down (because it hasn't moved the fuel-control-lever past the "run" position), or
• the EDIC is responsible because the lever has gone past the correct "run" position (and has gone more towards the "stop" position).

Now I see why you were looking at whether the connecting rod was in need of adjustment.

Well this image from my FSM should enable you to check for the correct lever positions:



(I imagine that unclipping the arm should enable you to find all the positions too. Because where the lever rests naturally should be the "run" position, the clockwise limit should be roughly "stop" and the anticlockwise limit should be roughly "start/overinjection".)

But perhaps you really have a fuel problem now - For example maybe you have somehow developed a leak that has let air into your injector pump so that it won't now deliver the fuel properly?

PS. I suggested looking at the oil pressure only because I thought your EDIC was shutting down your engine by moving your fuel-control-lever to the "off" position. But since you say your engine dies without your fuel-control-lever having been moved to "off", then I would look for another cause - Perhaps "air in the fuel circuit". - although I wouldn't expect it to "fire up with a healthy roar and then die" from this (apart from at the FIRST start-up after the air had entered). - More likely to not start at all (on subsequent attempts at starting!)

PPS. Tell you what - Why not remove the control rod altogether and try starting it? If it starts and continues to run then - You'll know the EDIC is responsible for the problem. (Because "with the rod removed" the fuel-control-lever should automatically sit in the "run" position, and your engine should still be able to start in this position. Note: Apart from "stopping"and "helping to start" your engine - the EDIC serves no other purpose.)

 

[brownbear]

Note: Apart from "stopping"and "helping to start" your engine - the EDIC serves no other purpose.)

Except low oil pressure protection by shutting down the engine.

Is it possible you don't have oil pressure and the engine keeps shutting down? Or was that eliminated?


LostMarbles is a very helpful member to you!

 

[narpod]

problem solved!
believe it or not it was the little swiveling piece that the EDIC arm attaches to that was sticking a little bit. A couple drops of oil fixed it right up.
Anyway, I'm still really grateful for all your help--gives me a better understanding of how the thing works. My previous experience with diesel engines was my little VW Golf which just has a little electric fuel shut-off solenoid right on the pump.
Now I just have to stop my steering gear leaking and I'll be all set! (oh, and adjust my headlights--facist safety inspection people).
Thanks again.

 

[lostmarbles]

problem solved!
believe it or not it was the little swiveling piece that the EDIC arm attaches to that was sticking a little bit. A couple drops of oil fixed it right up..............

Glad you fixed it.

Mine used to have a bit of "thin black plastic sheeting" under that lever that was "getting all chewed up". So I removed it completely.
But even when it was getting "chewed", it still didn't seem to cause any malfunctions. (Perhaps I was just lucky.)

But I always keep that lever "well greased".

 

[Tofudebeest]

Another EDIC issue:
Unless I hold the key the engine shuts off. If I disconnect the EDIC motor arm, it will stay running. Other than low oil pressure, what would cause the EDIC to move forward into the off position? Never touched the low oil pressure shut-off switch. But, I had swapped in a non-2H oil pressure sender to mate up correctly with the 3FE gauge, and fried that sender (and gauge?), by putting the wire on the ground tab instead of the nipple. Now there is a new 3FE sender in (has no ground tab) and a 2F oil gauge in. If I hold the key, it will read 1/2 oil pressure. I did relocate the fuel control relay, but didn't bang or jostle it too badly. I'll check for loose connections to every component in the EDIC system. Any other suggestions?

 

[Henry James the 47th]

If I might jump in here...

the oil pressure sender has no connection to the EDIC system. Only the low oil pressure switch connects to EDIC, and it is connected directly to the EDIC fuel control relay. It is often the case that the wiring for the sender and the oil pressure switch are bundled together, so since you have been working on the sender, I would suggest that you might want to check that wiring carefully, and test the circuit from the low pressure switch to the fuel control relay for continuity. If there's continuity in the wiring, then next you could check the low pressure switch for continuity - it should be grounded with the engine off, then, when you run the engine, and pressure comes up, the continuity will cease. If the switch is okay, then the remaining culprit is the fuel control relay. The EDIC motor doesn't move randomly by itself -the Fuel control relay operates it, based upon key position and signal from low oil pressure switch.

One other possibility might be the ignition switch itself.

 

[KOOTENAY KRUZER]

Tofudebeest - is there any possibility you got the oil pressure sender wire and the low oil pressure cutoff switch wire reversed?

 

[_Walker_]

you probably already figured this one out, but if your in a pinch and need to get the truck up and running ASAP if you just pull the arm off selector its spring loaded to pop into the "run" position. Granted to tun it off you either need to pop the hood or pop the clutch, but if you need to drive , you need to drive....

 

[Tofudebeest]

No, I've never touched the wire to the low oil pressure cutoff switch. Yes, I know I can drive it with the arm disconnected, but don't in case there is an actual problem that the EDIC is preventing from becomming a BIG problem.

You know what...I'm going to make a slightly educated prediction here. I bet I have a bad ignition switch. With the starter trouble I am experiencing (even after replacing the contacts and plunger) and the new EDIC trouble, the common element is the ignition switch.

As an aside, anyone recommend a particular all-purpose automotive multimeter (affordable, say ~$50 or less)? Dorman, Actron, Equus, Gardner Bender?