22RE engine oiling system (1 Viewer)

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2ndGenToyotaFan

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So I'm looking at a rebuild in the next few months, but I have a few questions about the bypass valve and relief valve.

Is the bypass valve the spring loaded thing on the oil pump? Where it's a valve, but more of a pressure regulator correct?

Where is the relief valve? My FSM only says it's ahead of the oil filter to relieve high oil pressure from a clogged filter... The FSM also says that a faulty relief valve could be causing the chronic low oil pressure I've had. (Not scary low, but not nice and high like I'd like to see after the rebuild...)

Also, the FSM points to the valve on the oil pump when referring to the relief valve and the bypass valve.... So are these both the same valve?

Thanks! :cheers:
 
The bypass valve and relief valve are the same thing, and they are built into the oil filter. You get a new one every time you change your oil. It's job is to open if the filter were to get clogged, if for instance you never changed your oil. It protects the paper filter from ripping inside, and the thin metal canister from rupturing. If you look down in the bottom of the oil filter, you'll see it down there.

The thing in the oil pump is a pressure regulator. It attempts to keep the pressure constant at all engine RPMs.

Low oil pressure can be caused by a lot of things, including a worn out oil pump (impeller), pressure regulator spring has gone weak, too much wear in the engine, etc. When I tore my engine apart 3 years ago, I put a new oil pump on it (a "turbo" model from engnbldr), now the average pressure on the dash gauge is much higher.
 
The larger steel oil pump ring can also wear into the soft aluminum Timing Cover. Usually from not changing the oil. It will allow for a larger clearance and therefore less oil pressure. Nothing is wrong with the oil pump.


Easy enough to spot, it's just get a replacement from there.
 
Not trying to hijack. This is somewhat related.

Speaking of low oil pressure, is it feasible to run 20w50 in the summer to get the oil pressure up some?

I need to replace the timing chain and guides from the clicking I hear at about 2000 rpm, but I was thinking with more pressure, it might go away for a while till I can fix it. When I rev past 2000 rpm, the clicking goes away. So would thicker oil accomplish the same thing?

To relate this back to your issue: could someone just run heavier oil to get the pressure up and put off a rebuild for a while?
 
yeah, thicker oil does quiet things down...


But I believe makes your engine work harder and also use more fuel.


That's a band aid approach and, from what I've seen on YouTube you can run it a while on the oil you got. You already know you have to go into it. So...:meh:

It also might be piston slap, valve chatter or mains. Piston slap has a sorta click and go away to it. But as far as I know you can drive it w/o any fear of that going due to how that's built.


The thicker oil also may cause you to prolong the inevitable b/c "outta sight, outta mind" kinda thing, and the next thing you might know it stalls out at a stop sign and won't start, cough 2ndGen, cough cough


No longer real time help or ignition problem... broken timing chain/bent valve(s)...


Schedule a TC job asap or just pull the valve cover and inspect it really, really good. If it's super hot where you are I'd forgo the 20-w50.


I usually run 20/50 in the cooler up to the dog days. But that's only b/c I don't know my engines condition and I run thicker oils in older, more worn engines.
 
Not trying to hijack. This is somewhat related.

Speaking of low oil pressure, is it feasible to run 20w50 in the summer to get the oil pressure up some?

I need to replace the timing chain and guides from the clicking I hear at about 2000 rpm, but I was thinking with more pressure, it might go away for a while till I can fix it. When I rev past 2000 rpm, the clicking goes away. So would thicker oil accomplish the same thing?

To relate this back to your issue: could someone just run heavier oil to get the pressure up and put off a rebuild for a while?

and you can also replace your gas cap with a rag. Or duct tape a flashlight to the hood in place of the burned out headlight..
 
yeah, thicker oil does quiet things down...


But I believe makes your engine work harder and also use more fuel.


That's a band aid approach and, from what I've seen on YouTube you can run it a while on the oil you got. You already know you have to go into it. So...:meh:

It also might be piston slap, valve chatter or mains. Piston slap has a sorta click and go away to it. But as far as I know you can drive it w/o any fear of that going due to how that's built.


The thicker oil also may cause you to prolong the inevitable b/c "outta sight, outta mind" kinda thing, and the next thing you might know it stalls out at a stop sign and won't start, cough 2ndGen, cough cough


No longer real time help or ignition problem... broken timing chain/bent valve(s)...


Schedule a TC job asap or just pull the valve cover and inspect it really, really good. If it's super hot where you are I'd forgo the 20-w50.


I usually run 20/50 in the cooler up to the dog days. But that's only b/c I don't know my engines condition and I run thicker oils in older, more worn engines.

Thanks for the thoughtful response. I think I'll just run it for a couple weeks till I've got the time and money to get in there and do the timing chain.

and you can also replace your gas cap with a rag. Or duct tape a flashlight to the hood in place of the burned out headlight..

Sometimes you do what you gotta do.

This is all I've got running right now, and not being a mechanical guru, I'd hate to tear it down, hit a snag, and be stuck walking. Just looking for a little advice on a quick fix till fixing it right time comes around.
 
and you can also replace your gas cap with a rag. Or duct tape a flashlight to the hood in place of the burned out headlight..



Lol last night I was cought without a license plate light, and all the auto parts stores were closed, and I had a 60 mile drive home. So I taped a head lamp to my bumper and drove home with it like that.

Just thought it was funny seein you post that now. :hillbilly:
 
Slightjack...I don't want to start a thread...


Do the oil coolers on RTEs and 3vzs actually work?

I've got an extra one and my 22r motor's tore down...it would make sense, IF, it even works.
 
Slightjack...I don't want to start a thread...


Do the oil coolers on RTEs and 3vzs actually work?

I've got an extra one and my 22r motor's tore down...it would make sense, IF, it even works.

You mean like this?
Oil Cooler.jpg

So I'm looking at a rebuild in the next few months, but I have a few questions about the bypass valve and relief valve.

Is the bypass valve the spring loaded thing on the oil pump? Where it's a valve, but more of a pressure regulator correct?

Where is the relief valve? My FSM only says it's ahead of the oil filter to relieve high oil pressure from a clogged filter... The FSM also says that a faulty relief valve could be causing the chronic low oil pressure I've had. (Not scary low, but not nice and high like I'd like to see after the rebuild...)

Also, the FSM points to the valve on the oil pump when referring to the relief valve and the bypass valve.... So are these both the same valve?

Thanks! :cheers:

Here's the info from the '90 4Runner, it's all I can access. This may say the same thing as what you already have, but now it's here for discussion.
Oil Pressure.jpg
Oil Cooler.jpg
Oil Pressure.jpg
 
No, I mean do they actually remove any heat from the engine oil.
 
No, I mean do they actually remove any heat from the engine oil.

Toyota believes they work, they were still using a similar design on the 2UZ-FE in the first-gen Tundra.

2UZ-FE Oil Cooler.jpg

Okay, maybe I'm just having fun attaching info I have access to, but not really answering questions. :bounce::bounce2::D
2UZ-FE Oil Cooler.jpg
 
Okay, maybe I'm just having fun attaching info I have access to, but not really answering questions. :bounce::bounce2::D


lol, me thinks...;)


:lol:



ok, if my tStat is set at 180 then what does engine oil usually run? Higher, or lower than that, IDK?
 
Have you tried going to the bigger filter? I can't recall the P/N but it's about 2-3 times the size as the smaller factory one. I don't have any hard data, but the much larger surface area on the filter housing allows more heat to escape outside the system. Cost is about the same as the stock filter depending where you buy. I have an aftermarket gauge for Oil Pressure and it remains the same. My aftermarket water temp still reads exactly the same, but doesn't mean it's not cooling the oil a bit more. Obviously it's not gonna do as good a job as an actual oil cooler, but it's a cheap start. I've seen those finned aluminum things that go around your oil filter to help disperse heat as well, but I think they will only do as much as adding the bigger filter. My 2 pesos
 
10-4, I thought of that. the only thing is, I have an extra RTE oil cooler and my 20/22R is apart. So I figured, if it works, all I have to do is throw it on...


and on the pin# and bigger filter. I to don't know but have some info buried in some mags that a Suzuki sidekick or some other little 4wd like that has a filter that will fit the 22R and it's allot bigger...


I'd start buying them if I had the #...
 
lol, pL10241


I know the Pure1 by heart :lol:
 

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