Twine On Board Shower Install (1 Viewer)

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Romer

fatherofdaughterofromer
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I have been contremplating an onboard shower for some time. With our upcoming trip to the Rubicon, seemed like a good time to get it done.

Two main components to the On-board shower, the Heat Exchanger and the pump.

reffug was kind enough to sell me his Heat Exchanger after he IMPALED his truck. Course, now he has a another nice truck or I wouldn't have made that comment.

Website: www.twine4wdshowers.com.au

The Instructions to install the Twine Heat Exchanger are as follows:

Overview
The Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) should be installed between the vehicle engine and the cabin heater control valve

Mounting the HEU with Outlet B on top will ensure maximum hot water flow through the HEU.

Mounting the motor section of the pump (silver part) uppermost will prevent any leaking water shorting out the motor.

CAUTION Allow vehicle to cool before beginning installation

You will require the following items:
Suitable lengths of ½" hose
Clamps to secure ½" hose
Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) mounting bracket – if standard bracket not sufficient (specific brackets available for some vehicles


Install HEU


1. Identify cabin heating system supply line from engine.
2. Secure Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) close to heater supply line using mounting bracket.
3. Remove cabin heating system supply hose.
4. Using suitable length of 5/8" Gates® heater hose and supplied Unicoils™ connect HEU Inlet A to engine port.
5. Using another suitable length of 5/8" Gates® heater hose and supplied Unicoils™ connect HEU Outlet B to cabin heater on the firewall.
6. Check that heater hoses are not crimped and do not rub on any part of engine.
7. Bleed vehicle cooling system:

• Disconnect hose from HEU Outlet B


• Set engine speed to 1,000rpm


• Stop engine when water runs from HEU


• Re-Connect hose to HEU Outlet B


8. Top up vehicle’s engine coolant supply.

Install Shower Pump

1. Secure shower pump in an appopriate position in engine bay using pump plate supplied.


2. Connect Inlet Assembly Male Snap Connector to inlet of shower pump using suitable length of ½" hose (not supplied).


3. Connect output of shower pump to HEU Cold Water Inlet.


4. Connect the HEU Hot Water Outlet to Outlet Assembly Male Snap Connector.


5. Screw Outlet Assembly Female Snap Connector to one end of shower hose.


6. Wire up shower pump to battery using Electrical Kit – mount switch in an accessable but protected place.


7. CUSTOMER to connect filter to Inlet Assembly Female Snap Connector using ordinary garden hose cut to length required.

System Check

1. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.


2. Set cabin heater control to maximum – for vehicles without constant flow heating systems.


3. Set engine speed between 1,200 – 1,800rpm and hold (depending on engine).


4. Ensure cold water supply hose is placed in a suitable water source.


5. Check shower rose shut-off valve is fully open.


6. Switch on shower pump.


CAUTION – SCALDING RISK Extremely hot water will flow from the shower rose after the initial water flow (allow 20 seconds of flow to clear).


7. If shower water is too hot, temperature can be adjusted by:


• increasing shower rose flow


• reducing cabin heater control


• reducing engine speed


• reducing flow through the HEU – adding a tap (eg Repco HT58) between engine and HEU (A)
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Now for the Pump, I selected a Shurflo 2.8gpm. I know there are faster out there, but 2.8 gpm is a pretty good flow rate and some times I may be feeding this out of a bucket or 5 gallon can.

I ordered a Shurflo model 2088-422-444. Lots of differnt models with a similar part number. This one has a higher psi, 45 vs 40.

The specs are as follows:

12VDC - 13.7VDC Max.
7 Amps.
2.8 Gallons per minute.
45 PSI cut off switch (3.1 BAR).
1/2" intake/outflow pipe thread connections.
2-Year Warranty (see paperwork for details).
Quiet performance.
Self-priming.
Easy installation.
Runs dry without damage.
Built-in check valve.
Standard 1/2" Intake and Outflow pipe thread connections.

My plan was to run 1/2" heater hose to the bumper and install Brass fittings. Not disconnects, just 1/2" fittings with caps.
 
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First I laid a board across the engine bay to protect the radiator.

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The second picture shows I placed the Twine bracket on the firewall for a test fitting. You can see it will obstruct with the brake booster vacuum line.

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I loosened the bolts on the two brackets holding this line in place and was able to move the line forward without any crimping as both ends have hoses on it.

You can see in the third picture how much I advanced it and ended cutting off the hose.
obs3 copy.gif


Note: Keep the bracket removed from the firewall as I ended up using that as part of the setup for better fitment
 
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I then removed the hose on the passenger side of the Heater control valve. I did not drain any radiator fluid as it was up high and the spillage would be a minimum. (Don't forget to top off later)

Basically, I just pulled the hose from the output of the heater control valve and the other end where it connects to a metal pipe that then goes to the heater. It was easy and simple to do. Note the Twine words are upside down as the input is on the left (not sure it matters)
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I then ran a 1/2" heater hose from the output of the Twine down to the bumper. Note that the install has the you install it with a cross flow. Meaning the water input is on the opposite side of the coolant input so the flows go in different directions.

I drilled a hole in the ARB with progressively larger holes until the barb side of the brass fitting could go through. I installed it directly behind the outside bar as I figured that would be better protected.

I also added some adhesive on the bottom of the brass fitting that mates to the bumper.

Ran the hose down the battery tray and then up to the bottom of the bumper with a clamp on both ends

Note the bras cap on top of the 1/2" fitting.

I wanted a 1/2" fiiting because I thought this would be better with shower heads and hoses from RV shops.

Note: In the first picture I slit a 1/2" hose down the middle and wrapped the Brake Booster metal line just to insulate it from the heat.

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Now came my dilemma, where oh where to install the pump. Looked under the spare battery tray and could have done something there, but would not have had access to it.

After a few step 6's and nice Cigar I decided to use the Pump externally.

The following reasons made sense to me.
1) It's tight in the engine bay already with all the stuff I got
2) I would need to winterize this setup and without the pump, I can just hook CO2 into the input and blow air through the Twine to the output. The pump would not be a factor
3) I can use the pump with my portable Zodi shower for use when I don't want to run the truck or we have another vehicle (Big plus here)
So I decided to build a harness with battery clips.

I also ran another 1/2" hose from the input (pass side) of the Twine down under the bumper and up to another 1/2" fiiting. I chose a 1/2" here because that is what the pump is. Had I installed the pump internally I likely would have gone 3/4" to fit a garden hose.

I ended up putting a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter on the input of the pump so I could use a 50 ft hose.

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Now to hook up a shower head on a 10 ft hose. I bought it at an RV store as they ones that shut on and off for water conservation (in case I am using a 5 gal can)

I then warmed up the truck and tested it out using a half full bucket. Started out warm, so I cranked the heater up and the temp changed with the heater controls and got hot. I don't have the throttle cable installed yet and don't seem to need it for this to have hot water. The down side is the heater is on full blast heating up the cruiser.


Awesome modification and should be nice on the Rubicon.
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The down side is the heater is on full blast heating up the cruiser.

Very slick! To keep the cabin from heating up, couldn't you just set the the temperature slide to heat and then not run the fan?

As usual, great write-up.
 
Very nice, useful mod at this point for me. Been wanting a shower for some time, this looks to be a clean way to do it. Also helpful that you show it on a car with supercharger. I would likely install the pump permanently.

Wasn't sure if I could fit one underhood, nice to see it can be done! Thanks for the great pics too. Recommend this for the FAQ/Sticky.
 
Very slick! To keep the cabin from heating up, couldn't you just set the the temperature slide to heat and then not run the fan?

I didn't think of that. Probably would work fine that way. Thanks for the thought

Recommend this for the FAQ/Sticky.

There is a thread already in the FAQ for on-board showers. I pasted a link to this thread there
 
Any chance of just mounting the pump on the inside of the bumper?

I thought of that and considered that along with below the aircan and second battery. jUst decided to go external per the reasons above. It will probably last longer that way too.
 
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No I totally get your reasons for doing it the way you did it. I was just wondering the pump is small enough to fit behind the bumper without an issue? I'm assuming it is by the looks of it.
 
I do need to add an inline fuse to the pump harness. Didn't get a chance to get to one today.

I would love to be able to find a 10 ft Shower hose. I had to buy two 5 ft's and use a coupler.

Other than a garden hose filter, I would like to come up with a better filter set up like is on the Helton of Twine kits. Can't seem to find it by itself.


Any one know of a source for the shower hose or the filter?
 
nice job and nice write up!

now to get a water tank on board, right...? :D or do you have one of those already too? :)
 
Is there any way to feed that shower from a live water source like a creek or a pond? You would of course need a pretty good filter, but unlimited water would be nice :)
 
Yeah of course, all you need is a long enough garden hose. Years ago my uncle had something like this on his Suburban. He carried around a 5gal bucket with him for various reasons. For this he used it by submerging the whole bucket in the water source, usually a stream because he always camped by a stream. He would then use a pair of panty hose (they may have been thigh highs, I dunno I was young) and then he would drop the hose into the bucket. the bucket prevented stream muck from get inside and the panty hose would keep little - enough - particles/critters out as well.
 
nicely done Ken...........

looks just like it did in my rig.

enjoy man.

told you that thing gets hot.
 
Can you recall the make/model info on the shower head?

Thanks.
 

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