Help me save my roof!!! (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 12, 2008
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Location
Central America and USA
Guys,
I ran a search here on refinishing fiberglass roofs:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/110306-redoing-hard-top.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/103468-refinishing-fiberglass-fj40-roof.html

The common theme was on repair techniques for roofs that have some wear, pitting and cracks. After reading this I fear that my issue is can my roof be saved. The PO-2 painted the roof black (see below). The PO who I bought from has no idea how the roof was painted or with what. As you can see whatever PO-2 used for sealant is wearing through and it is weathering and fading. Is there anyway that this roof can be treated and be brought back to the factory white or am I now stuck with repairing the black, buying a replacement white roof or ditching the hardtop altogether and going with a soft top? Any help would be truly appreciated. Thanks.:bang:
IMGP1209.jpg
 
I hear bleach turns things white :grinpimp:
 
I just repainted my top; the PO (like yours) had added some new paint to it.

I find it very hard to believe (as the threads you linked suggested) that you have to worry about sanding through to the matting. I gave mine a good sanding to remove the PO paint:

The original Toyota "paint" underneath (if it really is paint, it seemed more like epoxy) is very thick. Beneath that is the pure white fiberglass which you'll know when you reach. There is definitely a gelcoat or something between the original paint and the fiberglass mat, you don't need to worry about sanding through provided you're not asleep while you're working; when it turns from off-white to bright-white, you know you're through the OEM paint and can relax.

I then primed and repainted like normal and it looks just great.

I also had a crushed corner; looked like a tree puncture. The PO applied some fiberglass cloth to the outside of the top :)doh:) so it was all lumpy and s***ty lookin. I sanded smooth, bondo'd to fill the dents and dimples; can't see a thing.

You can see the patch job, as well as the original gelcoat (if thats what it is) and the original paint in these pics (also shown primed):
IMG_1425-800.jpg
IMG_1429-800.jpg
IMG_1432-800.jpg
 
I just repainted my top; the PO (like yours) had added some new paint to it.

I find it very hard to believe (as the threads you linked suggested) that you have to worry about sanding through to the matting. I gave mine a good sanding to remove the PO paint:

The original Toyota "paint" underneath (if it really is paint, it seemed more like epoxy) is very thick. Beneath that is the pure white fiberglass which you'll know when you reach. There is definitely a gelcoat or something between the original paint and the fiberglass mat, you don't need to worry about sanding through provided you're not asleep while you're working; when it turns from off-white to bright-white, you know you're through the OEM paint and can relax.

I then primed and repainted like normal and it looks just great.

I also had a crushed corner; looked like a tree puncture. The PO applied some fiberglass cloth to the outside of the top :)doh:) so it was all lumpy and ****ty lookin. I sanded smooth, bondo'd to fill the dents and dimples; can't see a thing.

You can see the patch job, as well as the original gelcoat (if thats what it is) and the original paint in these pics (also shown primed):
Wow, those threads had me ready to throw in the towel. What grit sand paper did you use? What did you use for primer and paint? How many coats each? Did you use a gelcoat, laquer or marine sealer for your final coat? More roof pics, before and after if you got them. Thanks:bounce:
 
there is a pretty good article in the Mar/APR issue of TT.
you should get a hold of one and check it out.

Thanks I just picked up the BJ 40 a few days ago and just joined TLCA this morning. Found the article online (great photography) and it is pretty good. Thanks alot.:clap:
 
Wow, those threads had me ready to throw in the towel. What grit sand paper did you use? What did you use for primer and paint? How many coats each? Did you use a gelcoat, laquer or marine sealer for your final coat? More roof pics, before and after if you got them. Thanks:bounce:

I sanded the old paint off with 400, hit it with regular old auto primer, sanded the primer to 400 then 800, then painted and sanded wet with 1000 and 2000. Used auto enamel, no gel coat/sealer/blah blah.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/210566-hardtop-prep.html

The corner shown is the one I repaired (sorry for the bad pics, garage is dark)
IMG_1545-800.jpg
IMG_1546-800.jpg
IMG_1549-800.jpg
 
I sanded the old paint off with 400, hit it with regular old auto primer, sanded the primer to 400 then 800, then painted and sanded wet with 1000 and 2000. Used auto enamel, no gel coat/sealer/blah blah.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/paint-body/210566-hardtop-prep.html

The corner shown is the one I repaired (sorry for the bad pics, garage is dark)

Dude this looks nice!!!:bounce::bounce::bounce: Man is this a load off my mind. Thanks so much. This looks like it will be my solution. :cheers: P.S. I now remember reading the linked thread before I bought the rig. I guess I need to brush up on my search skills as it didn't come up in my original search.
 
Gelcoat is the answer - this is how it cane from the factory.
But applying gelcoat yourself can be a challenge. Most just sand and respray with Cygnus white

If you are worried about damage, take it to a local boat repair yard and they will sand an respray it with gelcoat for next to nothing.
 
When restoring mine, my dad helped me put a layer of fiberglass on the inside to help w/ strength, then wet sanded the outside, painted and filled in w/ mud, then painted. Overall it turned out great, and the headliner covers up the reinforcement. It's not that difficult, if you want advice either check out the local body shop, or ask the guys at NAPA or CarQuest. Good luck.

Brian
 

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