spring over (1 Viewer)

[Dave71]

hi

is there much work in doing a spring over ? and what would i need to replace ? looking to do it at home with as minimal expense as possible.

 

[T.U.F.F.]

Depends on the tools at home. Some say you don't need to but I have always cut and turned for all the spring overs I have done on cruisers. I usually do a shackle reversal as well but that is personel preferance. Extend your shock mounts to get the travel out of the springs without limiting it with your shocks. Extended brakelines. Weld on new rear perches. Add a traction bar. It can be done in a weekend easy ehough with the right prep and tools.

 

[Dave71]

are there any links showing the job being done ? i would like to research be for i start.

 

[usmcruiser]

are there any links showing the job being done ? i would like to research be for i start.

IH8MUD.com - Technical

lots of info here.

 

[usmcruiser]

Depends on the tools at home. Some say you don't need to but I have always cut and turned for all the spring overs I have done on cruisers. I usually do a shackle reversal as well but that is personel preferance. Extend your shock mounts to get the travel out of the springs without limiting it with your shocks. Extended brakelines. Weld on new rear perches. Add a traction bar. It can be done in a weekend easy ehough with the right prep and tools.

I agree with cuting and turning with a 40, but do you really need to with a pig since the t-case is so much further from the axle? is the angle bad enough?

 

[nuclearlemon]

Some say you don't need to but I have always cut and turned for all the spring overs I have done on cruisers.

on 40s you don't need to cut and turn. on a 55, you have to.

as long as you're a good welder/fabricator, have access to a good welder and all the basic hand tools, you can do it. as mentioned, extended brake lines, torque bar, cut and turn, and possibly driveshaft mods are the minimum that you'll have to do.

the other things like shackle reversal, extended shock towers, wider axles, etc are good things to do.

 

[usmcruiser]

on 40s you don't need to cut and turn. on a 55, you have to.

as long as you're a good welder/fabricator, have access to a good welder and all the basic hand tools, you can do it. as mentioned, extended brake lines, torque bar, cut and turn, and possibly driveshaft mods are the minimum that you'll have to do.

the other things like shackle reversal, extended shock towers, wider axles, etc are good things to do.

why do you have to with a 55 and not with a 40?

 

[nuclearlemon]

why do you have to with a 55 and not with a 40?

because the axle is farther back, so the driveshaft is shorter, which means more extreme angles.

 

[usmcruiser]

hmm I had assumed that it was further from the tcase not closer.

I guess that's what happens when you assume. you make an ass out of u and me.

 

[SuperT]

I agree with cuting and turning with a 40, but do you really need to with a pig since the t-case is so much further from the axle? is the angle bad enough?

Speaking from my personal experience of buying a SOA pig without a C&T and then having the C&T done, I can say that it is absolutely necessary. It was the single most noticeable, biggest and best mod/repair I have ever experienced on any vehicle I have ever owned. How's that?
If you don't do it, the castor angle is so jacked that the pig wanders all over the road, follows every bump and groove.

 

[Pighead]

X 1 Million on the cut & turn...
Do it in a weekend??? Wow! Took me nearly 2 weeks...but I added disc brakes, power steering, Hi-steer, hooptie shock mounts, ladder bar and the 465/doubler all at the same time.
It IS a lot of work.
My advice? Find the best fabricator in your area...or invite Ige over for a weekend.

 

[zuluzeugma]

After you do it once, you could probably get it done in a LONG weekend, but the first time will take you 2-3 weeks of working on it every night after work for 5-6 hours. You figure out a lot of tricks. Its not that difficult; however, its no oil change either. FULLY understand what you're getting yourself into before you start cutting shiz out. My advice: hang out on MUD for 6 months at least and read as much as you can before you even start really considering it...

my $.02

 

[RHINO]

If you don't do it, the castor angle is so jacked that the pig wanders all over the road, follows every bump and groove.

w/o starting a whole c&t debate i would like to say that this statement is completely 100% untrue.

lets make this a game, who knows why i said that?

 

[laguna80]

Is it because the reason to do a cut and turn is to fix extreme driveline angles, not castor?

 

[SuperT]

w/o starting a whole c&t debate i would like to say that this statement is completely 100% untrue.

lets make this a game, who knows why i said that?

Wow, I guess I'll call the proffessional that did my C&T and does C&T's for a living that he doesn't know what he is talking about and that he is 100% wrong. But, also tell him that whatever he did, that he did a great job and my truck drives 100% better.
My caster before the C&T was 10 negative I believe and 4.5 positive after.

 

[RHINO]

sorry 'bout that laguna, was gonna take away my reply but you acted too quick for me your on the right track. doing an SOA doesnt change the castor unless you make it change. the problem is the u-joint angle and once the c&t is started you can not only fix the u-joint angle but improve the castor, so there it is. see how it snowballs?
for dave71, make sure to do your homework before an SOA, as you'll find out what seems like a fairly straight forward mod will turn into a loong and expensive project if you arent ready for it.
i am one of the guys who did the whole SOA in a w/e, i had all the parts and my gameplan before i started, its not a big deal but you need to know what your in for.

this has been discussed way too much.

and LOL superT, i hope i just cleared up what you seem to be confused about based on that sarcastic reply.

 

[SuperT]

once the c&t is started you can not only fix the u-joint angle but improve the castor, so there it is. quote]
Completely 100% wrong?

I think you're giving me credit for being 50% right with this statement.

 

[RHINO]

i'll give you credit for being right enough for getting your rig fixed from the mess the PO left you with,,,, but the statement you made, and i'm just busting your nuts really,, is false, an SOA does not have to mess up the castor, the po of your rig messed up the castor trying to fix the u-joint angle.
i have not yet done the c&t on my rig,,, its in the works when i rebuild the front axle, but as it sits SOA it has the factory 1* castor and the factory pinion angle.

 

[Dave71]

i think i might just put on some 33 for now as it's my daily driver, and wait till i get a car for the misses be for i attempt it

 

[SuperT]

i'll give you credit for being right enough for getting your rig fixed from the mess the PO left you with,,,, but the statement you made, and i'm just busting your nuts really,, is false, an SOA does not have to mess up the castor, the po of your rig messed up the castor trying to fix the u-joint angle.
i have not yet done the c&t on my rig,,, its in the works when i rebuild the front axle, but as it sits SOA it has the factory 1* castor and the factory pinion angle.

You're 100% right about the PO. On my rig, I needed the C&T to help fix the caster. I'd bet I'm not the only one.
Why are you planning on doing a C&T if your caster and your angle are fine?