steering shaft help needed (column to box!) (1 Viewer)

[ToyLet503]

I am in the process of finishing a saginaw P/S install into my '71 FJ40 and would like to know if anybody has had any problems using a steering shaft (column to box) that is fixed in length.

My main concern is that when the chassis flexes the shaft will not be able too compensate for the movement.

I am using a 68 saginaw box (impala) and a tilt column from a 91' GM fullsize truck, for the shaft from the coumn to the steering box i have the original FJ shaft and a couple Flaming River U-joints.

Has anybody had problems with this type of set-up?

 

[3_puppies]

I thought the intermidiate shaft would have a slip joint in it to compensate for the body flex.

also probably safer in a front end crash

 

[DSRTRDR]

My main concern is that when the chassis flexes the shaft will not be able too compensate for the movement.

what do you think is happening in the OEM configuration with a one-piece steering box

 

[lostmarbles]

what do you think is happening in the OEM configuration with a one-piece steering box

There's a flexible coupling between the steering column shaft and the steering box in my 1979 40 series that allows for some movement/misalignment.

 

[ToyLet503]

while i understand the concerns of a front end crash I would like to know if the setup i mentioned above has posed any problems for the folks that have used it.

I have seen this used before and would like some input from people with first hand experience.

Thanks!

 

[ToyLet503]

what do you think is happening in the OEM configuration with a one-piece steering box

as I have yet to see a multiple piece steering box please explain...

thanks!!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You want some slip in that shaft. There is about 1/2 inch of movement in minw when flexed. Without the slip joint something is going to bind and potentially be damaged.

In stock configuration, there is a lot less movement since the box is way closer to the firewall. With a tyical Saginaw way out on the end of the frame rail, it's going to flex a bunch more.

 

[pbgbottle]

i had the solid 3/4 round bar in mine for years .I know Downey and AA offered kits like this years ago .not saying it is or was the safe way to do things .anyways since you aked the only issue i had was it would screw up my sag boxes .blowing the seal and loosening the locknut and ruining whatever else it did internally where the u-joint attached about every 4 years or so .and i didn't do much hardcore wheelin. mostly city driving and logging roads, so not much flexing was going on .after doing all the work you have done i would probably spend the extra coin for the slip shaft and do it right the first time..Saginaw boxs can get expensive also after awhile.

hope that makes sense



go for the slip shaft.

 

[ToyLet503]

Thanks for the input! I only want to do this once and it looks like I need to order a slipshaft!

Thanks guys

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

X2 what "Drew" writes.

There are several options for a slip steering shafts. Home-made or commercial (such as Borg-Warner.)

Regards,

Alan

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You want some slip in that shaft. There is about 1/2 inch of movement in minw when flexed. Without the slip joint something is going to bind and potentially be damaged.

In stock configuration, there is a lot less movement since the box is way closer to the firewall. With a tyical Saginaw way out on the end of the frame rail, it's going to flex a bunch more.