Will you be ready for a run this year?
P.S. Why not make this a sticky???
P.S. Why not make this a sticky???
Pappy's 40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SteveLCetc
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #4
Seriously, actually. When does it become mobile?
Well, since you are serious. Here is a short list of what needs to happen.
I worked on the seat frame this afternoon so at least I can sit down solid. It's not finished, but usable. Tomorrow I'm going to bend more brake lines. I'd like to get the front finished to the flex lines and get the rear to the passenger side frame rail. Running lines down the frame rail to the rear (fuel supply, fuel return, charcoal canister, rear brake) will probably wait until I have the tub back off. I tried bending the fuel line along the frame and it was too difficult with the tub on. I need to decide on flex lines in front. I think stock mini-truck are the correct length.
I need to finish wiring up the steering column ... lights, horn, flasher, wipers. The harness under the hood is done. There is probably a good day or two there.
The tranny needs to be reattached so I can finish the dog house. I also need to know the location of the shifters so I can bolt down the Tuffy console. Once the tranny is on I can also trailer it to a muffler shop and get the exhaust installed.
Bottom line, there is lots I can still do without spending money. On the money end the exhaust, paint, and the roll cage (MetalTech) are about the only major expenses left. Unfortunately, the 20 months that the California Desert has been without rain has put a strain on the funding, and this year's La Nina is not expected to help.
I'm still shooting for Cruise Moab 2008.
I worked on the seat frame this afternoon so at least I can sit down solid. It's not finished, but usable. Tomorrow I'm going to bend more brake lines. I'd like to get the front finished to the flex lines and get the rear to the passenger side frame rail. Running lines down the frame rail to the rear (fuel supply, fuel return, charcoal canister, rear brake) will probably wait until I have the tub back off. I tried bending the fuel line along the frame and it was too difficult with the tub on. I need to decide on flex lines in front. I think stock mini-truck are the correct length.
I need to finish wiring up the steering column ... lights, horn, flasher, wipers. The harness under the hood is done. There is probably a good day or two there.
The tranny needs to be reattached so I can finish the dog house. I also need to know the location of the shifters so I can bolt down the Tuffy console. Once the tranny is on I can also trailer it to a muffler shop and get the exhaust installed.
Bottom line, there is lots I can still do without spending money. On the money end the exhaust, paint, and the roll cage (MetalTech) are about the only major expenses left. Unfortunately, the 20 months that the California Desert has been without rain has put a strain on the funding, and this year's La Nina is not expected to help.
I'm still shooting for Cruise Moab 2008.
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That gives you 6 months which sounds like a lot of time but really isn't. Don't cut corners now Jon. Ride it out and finish it when it's finished, not on an artifical time-line. If you take it out and break it because it wasn't ready it will be a huge set-back for you.
D-
alia176
SILVER Star
Weren't you gonna take everything off and powdercoat the frame or something? That's a huge task!!
- Thread starter
- #8
Rock chips would really be a problem if it was powdercoated...
Yes. After I get everything installed and I'm 100% sure I'm not going to be welding or drilling on anything it all comes apart. The frame will be powdered along with the bumpers, sliders, and a bunch of little brackets and such. The body will be painted. If I had my brain on I would have had Dan's body shop paint the fenders, hood, bib, etc while they were painting his truck. (ummmmmm 6M1?)
alia176
SILVER Star
Wow, that's a formidable task ahead of you. Just curious, why not hot dip galvanize it vs PC? At least this way, all holes and nooks and crannies will get filled and no chipping. Assuming of course someone in the area has a large enough vat to accommodate the chassis!!
Seems somebody looked into this and the service was not available in ABQ.
- Thread starter
- #12
I've heard bad stories about chipping with Powdercoating. The problem isn't cosmetic, it's the fact that when it chips rust concentrates around the hole - so instead of some rust around an unprotected metal area, the same rusting occurs at a focused point. Structurally dangerous...
How is this different from the same rock chip with a painted surface?
-Mike-
-Mike-
I think the issue would be in touch-up of the powercoated surface.
I don't know about you Dan, but I rarely crawl under Pristine with a jar of paint and touch-up the rock nicks in the paint on the frame.
-Mike-
When did you stop doing that? 
- Thread starter
- #17
My mistake. Errrh misconception. I talked to our powdercoating guy who just happens to have a 40, and he said he would definitely powdercoat vs. something else. They do a lot of it. He said it's a lot more durable than paint.
Southwest Powdercoating or Pace Ironworks do good work.
Southwest Powdercoating or Pace Ironworks do good work.
Steve,
Thanks for the tip. I've used Prism Select (was Coats and Colors) which I think is out of business. I've used Quality, but they no longer do "car parts." And I've used the Paint Shop (Kaehr) which was favorable. They were the one's I was going to use for the frame. Southwest Powdercoating must be new as they are not in the phonebook. I'll check them out.
Thanks for the tip. I've used Prism Select (was Coats and Colors) which I think is out of business. I've used Quality, but they no longer do "car parts." And I've used the Paint Shop (Kaehr) which was favorable. They were the one's I was going to use for the frame. Southwest Powdercoating must be new as they are not in the phonebook. I'll check them out.
