How to seperate T/case from H55J ? (1 Viewer)

[xtremitys]

Okay this sounds like a very novice question , sort of new to toyota's , was a jeeper .
Anyway - i bought a good 2nd hand Transfer case ( alloy case & manual lock ( non vacuum )from series 60 last week & as a bonus the guy gave me the H55J box aswell as he did'nt have time to seperate them . plus this t/case has a pto aswell -yipeee . ( its going into a 89' LJ71 with the stock 2LT as my current one is bloody noisey, have a tough 14BT build coming up soon - it will eventually go behind it )


I have a Max Ellerys workshop manual , but it says nothing about seperating the two , have pulled the 4 long mounting bolts out , but sense theres a few more , plus remember seeing like an internal fork or linkage in a picture/photo . So can someone tell me what else i need to do to seperate them ?????

 

[denis]

there are a couple more bolts you only have access to by pullind the t/case apart.

 

[xtremitys]

where are they ? do i have to access them thru the gearbox?

 

[Ron R]

where are they ? do i have to access them thru the gearbox?

No, you have to split the t-case.
Inside you will find three more bolts that hold it to the tranny.

If you look at the T-case from outside, there are 14 (?) bolts all around.

Three have 17 mm heads and are very long. They also hold the t-case to the tranny but inside the t-case casing there are three more. Only accessible after opening the t-case.
Be aware that there are two type (in fact three) kinds of bolts used to bolt the front and rear of the t-case together.
Three are big big ones I mentioned before and are quite obvious.
But the three bolts 'behind' the spot where the PTO is are just a few mm shorter then the other bolts. You have to be aware of that otherwise you won't be able to refit the casing properly.

 

[xtremitys]

WoW -cheers for the great info Ron R , pulled the PTO off tonight to have another go , knew there had to be more somewhere , but to pull the case apart to get to them - woul'nt have known that - not even the workshop manaul ( max ellorys )i have says that .

just wondering , i am going to put this T/case on the back of the alloy gearbox , think its a W151F or something like that - its behind a 2LT for time being as the one there is really noisey ,

Do i need to pull the gearbox out to mate this transfer case to it ( once i have taken it off the other one ) ? also can I the swap the vacuum lock ( that i have on the 1 in in there now ) over from the manual one thats on the T/case now ? swapping this case in till my new Combo is ready in the next few months .

 

[Ron R]

WoW -cheers for the great info Ron R , pulled the PTO off tonight to have another go , knew there had to be more somewhere , but to pull the case apart to get to them - woul'nt have known that - not even the workshop manaul ( max ellorys )i have says that .

I just happen to know it because last week I've been busy replacing some of the bearings in the T-case.

just wondering , i am going to put this T/case on the back of the alloy gearbox , think its a W151F or something like that - its behind a 2LT for time being as the one there is really noisey ,

Do i need to pull the gearbox out to mate this transfer case to it ( once i have taken it off the other one ) ?.

I cannot say or it will fit or not... I don't know the gearboxes you're talking about.
But if this box is the same as the one you want to replace, there is no need to pull the tranny to pull this off.....
I did the repair by just splitting the case, but it's a PITA.
I had the rig with the wheels on four stands so it had approx 20 cm extra groundclearance. Laying underneeth I did the job. Of course I didn't have to take off the rear part of the T-case but to my opinion that is not difficult al all. Just three extra bolts.
Be aware that you have to drain the gearbox as well. The moment you take out the idler-shaft of the t-case you get an open connection to the gearbox, spilling the oil in there (guess how I know).
Before opening the t-case, make sure you have taken off the nut that fixes the gears on the transmission output shaft. This is behind the lid more or less at the top of the tcase, held in place by six bolts. Afterwards this might be very difficult or almost impossible because there is hardly a way you can block the shaft to loosen the nut.

also can I the swap the vacuum lock ( that i have on the 1 in in there now ) over from the manual one thats on the T/case now ? swapping this case in till my new Combo is ready in the next few months

Never done this. But I took everything apart to clean and check. To my opinion this is possible but you have to exchange the whole system.
The vacuumtype uses a somewhat different type of shaft and fork to command the sleeve.
The manual has a fork that is fixed to the forkshaft, the vacuumtype has a fork that can slide over the forkshaft and is commanded by a spring on the shaft.
So if you exchange the fork, the shaft and the vacuumunit you should be fine.

 

[lowenbrau]

Once you get the job done, use that Max Ellery manual to start a nice campfire to sit around and reward yourself with a six pack of Vic B.

 

[xtremitys]

yeh i reckn about the manual , may have to use it as dunny paper when i run out -lol wonder if theres any really good workshop manauls around that actually has photos instead of ruddy "hand drawn" diagrams ?


Rob R >>>> cheers for all the info Buddy , your a total champion ! if/when i get stuck I"ll jump on here just to see where i am at- you nver know eh !

Thinkn i may just swap the guts of the T/case over and leave the other part of the case still attached to the box ( save's the hassle of swapping everything over )
Gettn another similar t/case & H55 box (to rebuild )to suit the B series engine from "snailtrail "for my 14BT Build anyway.

 

[Ron R]

Yes you can just exchange the inners.
But be aware that the preload for the bearings for the rear driveshaft are set by shims. And this is directly related to the casing.
So if you decide to use the 'new' inners in the 'old' casing make sure you check the preload.
Apart from this there is a quite some work involved if you want to exchange the driveshaft to the front as well, which I would do then to take full advantage of the 'new' inners.
I think it's less complex to swap the whole shebang.
It's just three more bolts you have to undo and that saves you having to exchange the front driveshaft with bearing and seal and flange with the stake nut and redo the preload settings for the rear-driveshaft bearings. (The shims are quite expensive !) You just need a new papergasket and O-ring extra

 

[denis]

I'm 99% sure the front housings are different and non-interchangeable between the R series trannies as found on the LJ and the H series trannies from a B, F or HJ.

 

[Tapage]

I'm 99% sure the front housings are different and non-interchangeable between the R series trannies as found on the LJ and the H series trannies from a B, F or HJ.

Ditto .. but let us know to be sure ..

 

[xtremitys]

Possibly doin it this coming saturday as have to drive some 700klm on sunday to pick up a 14B engine for my build ( hate hearing the whinnnniiing noise too) . do you know if ther companion flange's are the same ?

 

[xtremitys]

thinkn now i am goin to swap in the good 2nd parts from the earlier manual lock T/case , etc & put them into the t/case thats in the 4x4 now & ( Vacuum ) , not sure if the parts are the same ?

This will give me the case i want ( Mechanical lock ) to rebuild for my project - as plan to run some New parts inside it irrelevent ( gears , shafts , etc ) once deburred and Cryogeniced as to handle the extra "MUMBO" that a tough 14BT can put out .

Also don't want to waste any money on the t/case thats in there now , thats why I'm thinkn of using the parts from the other case that are in good condition ( just need it to drive around until its ready to drop the "NEW" combo in - then its gone )