62 Power Window Help (1 Viewer)

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nicholastheczar

nicholastheczar

Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Threads
142
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1,411
Location
Magnolia, TX
Yesterday I rolled down the drivers front window all the way down on my 88 62 (power windows) now it won't go up!! :crybaby:

All of my other 3 windows still function up and down when using both the drivers side control and each individual control, but I can't get the drivers front window to do anything. When I operate the control, I can hear a clicking noise coming from inside the door.

Tonight I tore down my door and removed the window switch control panel. I cleaned up all of the contacts but this did nothing.

There is a green box, I'm assuming it is a controller box of some sort, that when I try to operate the driver front window, this is where the clicking noise is coming from.

Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this problem. Also, anyone know how I can get my window to go up for now until I can fix this. Is it possible to either push the window up manually or short the circuit some how and get the window to roll up until I can figure out where my problem is?

Nick
 
My 62 has manual windows, but I have done power window repairs (new motors) on my Blazer that I had previously. The little green box is probably a relay. I would use a voltage meter and make sure you are getting power out of it when you hit the switch. If not, it is the culprit. If you are getting power out of it to the motor, then the motor seized. As far as getting the window up, your best bet, probably the only bet, is too remove the motor/regulator assembly and then you can just slide the tracks up, but you will most likely have to wedge the window somehow to keep it up.
 
PM Euclid and he will most likely have the answer.

Later,
 
Thanks.

I will try this to get my window up for now.

mtb_rider said:
My 62 has manual windows, but I have done power window repairs (new motors) on my Blazer that I had previously. The little green box is probably a relay. I would use a voltage meter and make sure you are getting power out of it when you hit the switch. If not, it is the culprit. If you are getting power out of it to the motor, then the motor seized. As far as getting the window up, your best bet, probably the only bet, is too remove the motor/regulator assembly and then you can just slide the tracks up, but you will most likely have to wedge the window somehow to keep it up.
Click to expand...
 
Well, I don't have the answer but here's some ideas.

You can take the arm off of the bottom of the window channel that attaches to the bottom of the glass. That will let you pull the window up to shut it. Use a regular carpenter's shim to jam between the rubber strip and the glass to hold it up.

I'm guessing you are right about the green box. I would use a multi meter and start testing wires in there and see if you can figgure out what's what.

Another idea is that it could be in the switch itself. I have taken the master switch panel apart several times, and the driver window switch is much more complicated. Did you take the switch itself apart? The tiny brass contacts in there can get bent, which keeps them from contacting.

HTH
 
Euclid -

I took the switch apart down to the brass contacts and cleaned them all. None of them seemed bent or out of place. My guess it is either the motor has frozen up on me or the green box has fried. I will take my multimeter to it tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I first need to get my window up b/c I don't have enough room to work with it stuck down.

Thanks for the input, I'll probably have some more questions soon.
 
How slow were your windows up and down before this?
 
Are the green boxes (what are these by the way?) in all the doors the same? What I'm getting at is can I pull one of the green boxes out of the front passenger door and plug it into the front driver to get it to work, or at least narrow the problem to the motor?

Anyone know if this is possible?
 
The green box houses the auto-down relay which has probably died. There is only one on the drivers side as only the driver's side window on a 62 has the auto-down feature. You can apply direct power to the window motor w/ some jumpers from the battery to close the window then get a replacment relay (green box) from either cruiserparts.net, classic cruisers or go new from Cdan.

This frustrated the hell out of me and is the reason that I have a new master window/door lock switch in my "box" of 62 parts.
 
Last edited:
Ming -

So I should be able to completely bypass the autodown relay and direct wire to the motor w/o any problems other than not having a auto down feature, correct? If this is the case, I can do w/o the autodown feature.

I tested the lead coming from the green box to the motor and I'm not getting any volts. I'm going to check the lead coming into the green box. I'm 99% sure my problem lies in the autodown relay.

I'm heading to the garage right now to test this out.
 
You probably can by-pass the auto-down relay but the DS switch on the master switch is different from the others to accomodate the auto-down - I've not tried this. I opted to to replace the auto-down relay aka "green box". SOR does not list the auto-down relay in their catalog but call to see if they have one - otherwise call cruiserparts.net or classic cruisers for used. Cdan at American Toyota might be able to source a new one - I don't have any idea what they cost.

My comment for getting the window up by using a battery directly to the window motor provides a temporary solution. Make sure that you check the circuit breaker in the fuse panel to make sure that you have power. The windows and one other circuit (can't remember which one) is protected w/ a resettable circuit breaker rather than a fuse. The back of the cover plate should have a schematic to show which C/B is which.

Good luck.
 
well it is definately my auto down relay. I was able to run a direct line from my battery (as suggested by ming) and my window went up, so my motor is fine. I called cruiserparts.net and they can get me one for $50. I am waiting on a call back from Cdan to see how much a new one is.

Thanks for the help.
 
added to the FAQ. Thanks for the good tech.
 
I just went through a similar process with mine. I just used a board in the window to hold it up until I got the new master relay box from cruiserparts.net. It's worked great now for about 3 months. I was about to go crazy as all my other windows worked fine, just the drivers wouldn't work. I kept thinking that if the master relay went out, surely they all would quit working. That made me think that my reg motor was bad. Very frustrating, but it's all good now.

later,

m
 
I know this thread is old, but please explain how to run a jumper from the battery to the motor so I can at least get my window up for now. Do i use actual jumper cables? if so do I connect the neg or pos to the motor to get it to go up... Damn window!
 
i use a cordless drill battery and some 14 ga speaker wire.
 
and just hook that directly to the motor? are you just touching the wires to the metal on the battery?
 
Yep, it's as simple as that. Connect one lead on the battery to one of contacts on the motor and repeat for the second. If the window goes down instead of up just swap the leads on the battery - the wonder of DC electricity.
 
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