Finished Brake Lines (pics attached) (1 Viewer)

[UNO_RACING]

Well I finally finished plumbing my brakes. Initially I was going to lay the steel lines down, but decided to go for the braded lines throughout the brake line. Just couldn't spend the time bending the tube and mucken it up.

Total cost of the brake lines was $275.00 with all the fittings. Cost of one New Castle while installing $1.15, time saved undetermined, but lots. Cost of easily installing brake lines in 10 min, priceless.



Enjoy!

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[UNO_RACING]

More Pics

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[reservefj40]

Looks awesome.

I have to redo mine and was dreading bending all those tubes. Never thought about doing it that way. Where did you get the lines and fittings?

 

[TimCFJ40]

Looks Great. I'll be interested to see how mushy the pedal feels with all of that flex line installed. I've always been told to minimize flex line in a brake system to get a good firm pedal feel. Let us know how it turns out for you.

 

[mr_manny]

I've always been told to minimize flex line in a brake system to get a good firm pedal feel.

x2
a good quality flare-tool makes it easy...

 

[UNO_RACING]

I too was worried about the pedal feeling spongy but I was assured by the tech who builds them is that they are much more superior than standard brake lines. Essentially they are reinforced tubing (not sure of material) wrapped with braded steel. I'll let you guys know tha outcome...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Making the hard lines is suprisingly easy and cheap. You can get a 25 foot roll of tube and 16 fittings for $35 from Classic tube. Getting a double flare tool to work is a bit of a chore, but easily mastered in an hour. Your set up looks nice and cleanly done, but bending up brake lines is nothing to fear.

 

[Degnol]

Making the hard lines is suprisingly easy and cheap. You can get a 25 foot rool of tube and 16 fittings for $35 from Classic tube. Getting a double flare tool to work is a bit of a chore, but easily mastered in an hour. Your set up looks nice and cleanly done, but bending up brake lines is nothing to fear.

Absolutely! Brake line is cheeeeep, so if you futz it up, NBD. Its just another skill to learn. Same principles apply to hard lines for fuel. I bought a double flare tool, made in the USA, for about $27 and have never done one that leaked or didn't work, not one.

Anyway, what you did should work, but your pedal has to be a little spongier than steel.

Ed

 

[UNO_RACING]

For a little more reassuance on the line type, I checked my Volvo's lines and all of them are rubber. I have huge Brembo brakes too.

In addition, I also contacted my mechanic buddy and he too assured me that the set up will work---better than stock. His rational was that they are teflon pipe wraped in stainless steel and then again with a rubber coating. The lines are is specific to brake applications.

I'm still a little leary, but a little more confident that it will work out okay.

 

[El Cazador]

I'm such a cheap bahstard I'll bend steel first. Did it as a complete novice on the '67 Bronco I rebuilt before this FJ40 project and nothing leaked at all.

 

[mr_manny]

I think you'll be ok, a buddy also went the flex-line route for his buggy...of-course he doesn't drive it around town...

If you ever get a chance, I would recommend making a hard-line.

You will be surprised how easy it is...

options are always good.

manny

 

[Hobbs]

That much flex-line makes me nervous......

 

[1phrogguy]

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what is that sticking out of the prop valve with the wire on it? Is it an electronic prop valve?

 

[VTFJ40]

SS Flex line for brakes is nothing like regular rubber lines. It's some tough stuff. Sponginess shouldn't be a problem.

Pricey, but whatever works for you.

 

[idus25]

Where did you purchase the lines and fittings? Was this a universal kit?

 

[UNO_RACING]

Where did you purchase the lines and fittings? Was this a universal kit?

I designed the kit myself and had a manufacture build it. Took them 15 miniutes to build. You have to have a special tool to mount the fittings.

The way I designed it was with 1/4" nylon string, a pen and note pad.

I laid (no pun intedned) out the sting to accomidate for the angles (more angles results in more length). I then mad a visual observation of the angles in the line to determine what fittings I needed.

Took my note pad along with the string to the manufacture--- and bada bing it was done in no time.

I just got off the phone with the manufacture for a testament.... The line that I have is specifically designed for high peformance brake applications. To name a few; off road applications (baja trucks), drag cars, sprint cars, and circle track cars, etc.

The internal line is made of teflon...its then wrapped in stainless steel and then sleaved with a high pressure plastic sheeting.

If you are interested in the kit, send me a PM. The hose is $5.00 a foot and the fittings range from $.50 to $10.00. I'll chagre a handeling of $25.00 for my time..you pay truck...

I accept pay pal too!

Late,

UNO.

 

[Trollhole]

Have all braided lines on the rear of my 40 with disks.. I wouldn't want the brakes to be any quicker than they are now.

 

[UNO_RACING]

what is that sticking out of the prop valve with the wire on it? Is it an electronic prop valve?

It's an electronic sensor in the event that the porp valve is loosing pressure, the dummy light will activate on my dash.

 

[UNO_RACING]

Hello everyone.

Yesterday I finally had the opporutnity to bleed my brake lines and clutch line. All I can say is that there is not an issue with soft pedal. In fact, the pedal feels perfect (very little play, but just enough).

I ran synthetic fluid throughout the system. Started bleeding with my buddy at the passanger rear wheel and worked our way around. It was a time consuming process, but we got all the air out of the lines.


IMHO, the lines are worth the money. Makes a nice clean install.