Wilson switch (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 28, 2002
Threads
147
Messages
4,904
Manual Switch Bypass Glow Timer

BJ60 Bypass

To not get credit where credit is not due, kudos to master Toyota Tech Ciaran Wilson of BC. He has run this system in his BJ60’s (or variations of) for at least 5 years.

I do not take detailed notes, such as pin # on connections, so if anyone who uses this wants to add to the tech sheet feel free.

The fuse panel has one 7.5amp fuse marked Glow. In reality, all this fuse does it light up the glow light on the dash.

Access the glow timer in the kick panel on the drivers side. Undo the factory connection to the glow timer. Among all the wires heading up the harness are two black/red wires (opposite ends of the plug). One goes to the high end glow relay, and the other goes to the afterglow relay (picture supplied on this post; I removed the cover of the relay so it would identify easier---the one you want is on top of the inner fender, not the one beside the starter relay). I pushed a wire into one connection at the kick panel, and ran it out the door and to engine bay. I simply completed the loop at the battery using the age old “push the bare wire onto the positive pole” method, and listened for which glow relay it activated. When I got the right relay I marked and cut the wire at the harness in the kick panel.

I took the instrument cluster out, and cut the two wires going to the glow light, in effect severing the light from the harness; I believe one is black/red and one is red/white. One is powered when the key is on ACC (I think it was black/red). This is the one you want to run to one side of the NO switch. Dead head the other wire.

Run two wires off the other side of the NO switch: One to the glow light bulb pigtail you left yourself, and one to the black/red wire that heads to the main relay from the drivers side kick panel area.

Run another other wire from the back of the glow light bulb to ground of your choice (I took it to a bolt on the firewall).

Test the system, then finalize all your connections. With the key is out, you should be able to press the button, and nothing happens. Turn the key to acc and when the button is pressed current should go through to both the glow light, and the main glow relay, tripping the relay and glowing your plugs, as well as turning on the glow light.

Make sure your connections are sound, shrink wrapped and put back together; enjoy.

This system has been used for at least 5 years with no issues appearing. It works great on my truck. Wire it in at your own risk.

Leave the glow timer right out of the system, and you have a totally manual system. You could hook the timer back up, deadhead the one black/red cut wiring coming out the timer, and in effect have total control of the high end glow and still maintain the afterglow, if it still works.

I have not yet changed out the plugs from the 12V super glow Toyota=19850-68050 (51) 12V-6V to the manual glow 12V Toyota=19850-68010 12V-10.5V…one day.

Brownbear, I suppose one could not sever the connection at the timer relay, and simply T into that with the above wiring system. You could then “super afterglow” the system with the button if you choose.

Alternatively, you could check the wiring and see if you can do much the same as the 13BT/12HT glow system fix that Mike Forbes pioneered. I believe Stone has some excellent posts further defining this override on Mud. I have not confirmed, however if it is the same you can tap into the water sensor loop for the glow with a normally closed switch. When you push the button you in effect mimic very cold weather, and fool the system into glowing as long as the button is pushed. When you release the button, the normal glow cycle happens. Again, I have not checked to see if this would work with the BJ60 super glow system; I figured plan old manual would be the best for me.

hth’s

gb
Glow#1.jpg
glow#2.jpg
 
Last edited:
anybody have a wirering diag. for a wilson switch, i got 2 bad glow plugs and the price for 2 new ones im better of getting 4 new NGK and wireing up a wilson swith thanx for now
 
sorry to say this but if you search you will find lots of info on this web site .

the wilson switch is one of the best mods you can do . just make sure you buy a heavy duty switch .
 
LOL I just made this thread the new home for that post.

See post 1 :flipoff2: How's that for crazy modding.....
 
wire direct to the buss bar and to the battery and the push button switch.
very easy, clean and works like a damn...
people have been doing this mod for decades...

thanks for posting this up Greg, excellent idea for those that never tried it...
 
wire direct to the buss bar and to the battery and the push button switch.
very easy, clean and works like a damn...
people have been doing this mod for decades...

thanks for posting this up Greg, excellent idea for those that never tried it...

This was an old post of Greg's I spliced in here.

The beauty of this mod, you use the wiring that is in place, don't need to do anything under the hood, and the light works still.

Took me less than 30 mins to do.
 
Keep it simple, just unplug the temp sensor and have complete control over the glow cycle with the ignition switch. No mods required.

So then you have "max" glow cycles, unless you turn the key and try starting it earlier with a 20 amp or higher load on before you crank the battery.
 
This was an old post of Greg's I spliced in here.

The beauty of this mod, you use the wiring that is in place, don't need to do anything under the hood, and the light works still.

Took me less than 30 mins to do.

the problem is you still have the resistors in the loop, correct?

i like simplicity, running a wire from the cab to the engine is dead simple and you can sell the resistors to the peeps still running the super glow system...

KISS

cheers

<not saying there is anything wrong with Gregs setup, i just find the less things in the loop the better>
 
All Greg's set up does is eliminate the timer. And the after glow. It is dead simple. And can be done faster than running a wire.

Also you may want the resistor if you are running stock OEM plugs.
 
hummm, so clarify this for me as i am really elec illiterate.
the wire he uses eliminates the timer and the after glow so what does the resistors do?
if you hold stock plugs on too long they burn out so the super glow plugs are replaced with full time, right?

i am trying to picture this in my head and keep coming up with burnt glows and resistors impeeding the process...

can you draw up a diagram and send it to me direct?
 
Diagram I don't think I could....been too long since I did this mod.

But It is basically how you say, a wire to the relay. You basically take a power wire and put the switch in the middle, connect to the light and have it go out and power the relay field.


The resistors, One for the afterglow won't get used, the other mounted on the intake/busbar does I guess. Which may be good if you still have the 6v plugs. But once you go 10.5 remove it. Or not.... I have not and I just have to glow longer due to the voltage drop it provides. But I also have no fear of over glowing and burning out my 10.5v plugs.

The big thing this does is get rid of the timer. My timer had that fault that causes it to cycle to quick. I sometimes had to cycle the ignition key 3 times to get a start. I find it easier to hold the button in for 20 seconds, then crank, once it catches hold the button in again for 5-10 seconds for afterglow.

I can really do a 0 smoke start like this.
 
So then you have &quot;max&quot; glow cycles, unless you turn the key and try starting it earlier with a 20 amp or higher load on before you crank the battery.
The full 14 seconds is used on all cold starts. If a shorter time is desired then switch ign 'off' then straight to start, and the glow circuit is off. By leaving for the full 14 sec the lower power 'afterglow' stays on. Pulling the sensor plug is just easier than adding more controls.
 
The full 14 seconds is used on all cold starts. If a shorter time is desired then switch ign 'off' then straight to start, and the glow circuit is off. By leaving for the full 14 sec the lower power 'afterglow' stays on. Pulling the sensor plug is just easier than adding more controls.

Ok, sounds fair.

One nice addition would be taking the power wire in and running it thru a toogle switch. Then you can turn it off, or on for the starts. Also it could be a toggle(not a push button) as the timer will turn off the glow plugs. So you would only need to turn it on in the morning. Or always leave it on.
 
the best part of the wilson switch is if you live in a colder climate , you can fully control the glow time, if its a bit rough after starting i just give it a couple of more seconds. i would still liket o have an automatic after glow in place along with the wilson switch , but havent decided how to make it yet .

also its a theft deterent , one of the guys at work thought it was a start switch , i doubt any one who did nt know what it was could get it started .
 
i had this on my previous 40... although all i could determine was a ground wire from the filter light (not the glow light), went via a push button to ground..

this meant that the normal glow timer would work first, or if it decided not to work (which happened after a while), you could manualy glow it for a few seconds.

this mod seemed to disable the filter light from working though (it had never worked on that bj42)..

I might have a deeper look at this when time allows to figure out if that is all the PO did with teh push button, as I like the idea of teh timer/push button override.

Thanks for bringing this thread back up brownbear and thanks to Greg_b for the tech details.. ! :)
 
wire direct to the buss bar and to the battery and the push button switch.
very easy, clean and works like a damn...
people have been doing this mod for decades...

I did this on one truck that I have and it worked perfectly.

However, I too am electrically illiterate, and tried to do this on another truck (same year i might add...83 BJ60 with superglow) and no matter what I do, I blow the fuse. I have it wired so that I can glow the plugs with the ignition off, but as soon as I press the button, the fuse blows. I have installed brand new plugs, I don't see any current with the keys off so something is bad here. Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what might be going on and what I should check for?

Right now i am having to hold a wire to the positive post of the battery and to the glow bar to get the truck started. Not ideal when its freezing outside.

I'm lost.

Thanks

Adam
 
There must be a mistake in your circuitry. If you can glow directly from the battery without frying the lead, there is nothing wrong with the glowplugs themselves.
Think you have to check the wiring you used to put in the button.
 
I did this on one truck that I have and it worked perfectly.

However, I too am electrically illiterate, and tried to do this on another truck (same year i might add...83 BJ60 with superglow) and no matter what I do, I blow the fuse. I have it wired so that I can glow the plugs with the ignition off, but as soon as I press the button, the fuse blows. I have installed brand new plugs, I don't see any current with the keys off so something is bad here. Can anyone offer any suggestions as to what might be going on and what I should check for?

Right now i am having to hold a wire to the positive post of the battery and to the glow bar to get the truck started. Not ideal when its freezing outside.

I'm lost.

Thanks

Adam

Scrap the wilson idea and start all over.

You need to control the two small wires on the primary glow plug relay.
Take fused power(the same size as the glow plug fuse. And run it to a push button switch. Out the other side of the switch go directly to the relay. Use a new wire. Splice it to one of the small wires.
Then the other small wire goes to ground.

When you press the button(ignition on) the power will go to the relay and make contact. The large wires should not have to be touched.

I would take the wire from the glow plug fuse and splice in a wire of the same gauge to run to the switch and so on.

Forget about your timer.

If you want a light, take a second wire of the back side of the switch and run it to the factory lamp. Like a jumper.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom