Carb or Fuel Injection (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 5, 2006
Threads
8
Messages
31
Location
Montg. Co. MD
It's finally time to do something with the original stock carb on my 40. Many friends have recomended various changes which range from just rebuilding my stock carb, installing a 38 weber with an HEI distributor or a throttle body fuel injection system with the HEI distributor. I was wondering what some of you guys are using on your vehicles or could offer any suggestions on this.

Thanks
 
Get your existing carb rebuilt by Mark from Mark's Offroad.

marksoffroad.net

I've done a lot of business with him with ZERO disappointments.

If you have a late model 40, you may want to keep your stock electronic distributor. If you have an early one, get the Non-USA version or a DUI.

A DUI/HEI is going to work well compared to stock but stock can work well too. That is just one thing that GM really did get right and it works well. Don't know that you really need it though.

A Weber is a big waste of money. I've tried them many times and not been pleased. Like I've said before, I'll happily run some Weber 44's on a VW/Early Porsche or a set 4 of Ingles Weber's on a Ford 289 but not on a 40. Hell, I'd love to have an old V12 GTO with Webers or Dellortos but that's probably never going to happen. The Aisin is such a good carb and is one of the things that make a stock Land Cruiser different than from it's peers. It's an accumulation of high quality parts like the Aisin carb on your 40 that made is so good in the 1st place. Putting on a Webber brings you down to the Fiat and Alfa level of reliability...as it's OEM on the those cars.

As for Fool-Infection (Fuel Injection) I don't see that as a great idea unless you are some kind of rock crawler and even then the locals who are into that seem to get by just fine with carbs. If you do rock crawl, get Propane. It's awesome for off camber and virtually water proof unlike Fool Injection that will leave you stranded in the woods (are you reading this Fred Wellan?) when it gets wet.

Plus with Propane you get to drive on HOV - at least for now with a green tag.

All of this is just my opinion, I'm sure you'll find many that don't agree.

-Stumbaugh
 
Don't get a Weber unless you really know what you're doing. They tend to need a lot of tuning and I personally think it's a waste of money. Stick with the Aisin. Most people who "upgrade" end up coming back to stock. I have a Weber that came with my engine and it's on my "to do" list to get rid of it (eventually). My 2 cents.
 
Thanks for the info guys. It really helps. I think that I am going to stick with the stock carb and possibly upgrade the distributor.
I have also had a recomendation to use a stock non-USA carb and non-USA distributor. Any thoughts on that??

Thanks
 
That is good advice. Jim C aslo rocks and is wicked knowledgeable. Both he and Mark have guru status in the carb rebuilder market.
 
That is good advice. Jim C aslo rocks and is wicked knowledgeable. Both he and Mark have guru status in the carb rebuilder market.
dont matter which way mark/jim hell they are both good folks;) but if you put a weber carb on.it is a downgrade for the most part.and when wheeling is when it really shows:beer:
 
I checked out Mark's web site. Seems to run a down to earth business. How does one find FJ40 Jim?
 
Yep, that's Jim's email address. My 40 still has a Carter 4-barrel carb on it, similar to Edelbrock. I just sent JimC a stock carb to rebuild for me. Even when the Carter was running well, it still sucked offroad.
 
Felix:

How exactly did it suck offroad?

As soon as the truck gets even remotely off-camber (left/right or up/down), fuel spills out of the bowl, causing the truck to sputter and stall. And once it stalls out like that, I have to get the truck back level and work it for about 45 seconds. Having the truck stall out as your listing to one side or another is no fun. I did get pretty good at moving the truck with get the starter, though. :D

In defense of the carter, there are some mods you can make to the carb to allow it to perform better off-road. Woody has a write-up in the tech section about it. But I'm having some other carb related issues, so I just figured I'd go stock.
 
As soon as the truck gets even remotely off-camber (left/right or up/down), fuel spills out of the bowl, causing the truck to sputter and stall. And once it stalls out like that, I have to get the truck back level and work it for about 45 seconds. Having the truck stall out as your listing to one side or another is no fun. I did get pretty good at moving the truck with get the starter, though.

Okay, I was just curious. We'll find out if Webers have the same problem (one day).
 
Felix, the stock aisan has a return line that avoids just that situation. Overflow returns to the gas tank. No sputter. Hopefully, your return line is still in place.
 
You can also get the OEM Aisin "non usa" carb from Spector and other sources. The best thing about these is that they are ported for Vacuum advance rather than the North American spec vacuum retard.

I've bought a half dozen of them and loved the way they ran - when matched with a vacuum advance non usa dist, they rock!

SOR used to have them, now you have to scrounge one up overseas.

-Stumbaugh
 
Felix, the stock aisan has a return line that avoids just that situation. Overflow returns to the gas tank. No sputter. Hopefully, your return line is still in place.

Let's hope. If not, I'll have to figure that part out.
 

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