I screwed up...need radiator help (1 Viewer)

[wakesetter]

I am currently working on changing the belts on my 95 FZJ80 along with some other stuff like plugs, cap, rotor, etc.

While trying to loosen the pivot bolt at the top of the alternator I said to myself "you should remove that hose there so that you don't break it if the wrench slips." Of course I did not listen to myself and the wrench slipped and I broke the little plastic nipple with the small diameter hose coming off of the top if the radiator. DAMN!!!

I am refering to the hose that is about 4-5 inches from the top right of the radiator, next to the large hose. What is the purpose of this hose and how screwed am I? It looks like a bypass or something.

I was thinking about putting a scewer in the hole and then sliding the broken piece over the skewer and epoxying it back on. Then remove the skewer after the epoxy has dried and put the hose back on. The point of the skewer being that it will keep the plastic nipple lined up and prevent the epoxy from plugging the hole.

So is this a worthwhile idea of another dumb idea? I would like to avoid buying a new radiator if possible. My other idea was to bore out the hole a little and thread a brass nipple into the top of the radiatior and then connect the hose to that nipple. Any ideas here?

 

[Romer]

I broke that same piece leaning over it changing spark plug number 6.

There is no repair.

Ordere the 94 radiator from Cdan. It will fit your 95 and save you $300 and some prefer the internal design. I would replace your tstat and do a complete drain, flush and fill. Since you are doing all that work you might evaluate your fan clutch. All those replaced would put your cooling systems in top shape.

 

[wakesetter]

100% not the answer that I was looking for. Anyone care to disagree with him?????

 

[cruiserdan]

Time for a new radiator, from whoever you like.

 

[landtank]

100% not the answer that I was looking for. Anyone care to disagree with him?????

I'd be happy to disagree with him, unfortunately I'd be wrong.

 

[wakesetter]

OK Dan. Whats the price on a 94 radiator? in stock?

 

[cruiserdan]

About 417 bucks for an OEM piece. I do carry them.

 

[CodyRx7]

Yup, did the same thing myself.

Some people have posted that they just plug the whole and don't run the bypass just fine.

I was lucky enough to pick up a used radiator free from another local club member which saved the day and potential mod money.

 

[jamisobe]

I'd check with a couple of radiator shops to see if they have any ideas. You might be able to get your hands on a brass fitting that with a little copper silicone could save you $350-400. Maybe they could order the upper tank and rebuild your radiator while its out. I paid $55 to have mine rebuilt good as new. Even if the upper tank cost you $100 and you spent $50 to have it rodded your way ahead of the game.

 

[cruiserdan]

The upper tank is more like 150 bucks plus another 75 bucks worth of o-rings to seal it plus the labor to get it done. Not worth it. I'd buy a new aftermarket radiator before I'd do that.

Knowing how vulnerable the 1FZ head gasket is if the engine gets over-heated I would not skimp on the radiator.

 

[CJF]

Was it the original radiator? If so, it lasted twelve years; way longer than aftermarket brands, regardless of any "lifetime" (as in replace it every 2-3 years till you scream) warranty. Plus, even if a radiator's not leaking, its performance steadily degrades over time, so replacing it with new OEM will give you incredible peace of mind from here on out for a looooong time. You could almost say you did yourself a favor.

(Feel better?)



Seriously; replace it, cross it off your list and move on.

Cheers,

Curtis

 

[cary]

Time for a new radiator. Be sure to read the FAQ on how to change the radiator so you can do it in one hour instead of four.

 

[jamisobe]

Dan may be right. You may screwed. I would still research to verify. You may be surprised with what some good ole boy can do for you.

The guy I found told me upfront he would have to look at it to see if he could repair it and if not no charge. The tanks have to come off to rod it. If I only paid $55 to have mine rodded he likely reused the seals. You may be able to get a good tank off of a bad radiator for cheap.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Dan may be right. You may screwed. I would still research to verify. You may be surprised with what some good ole boy can do for you.

The guy I found told me upfront he would have to look at it to see if he could repair it and if not no charge. The tanks have to come off to rod it. If I only paid $30 to have mine rodded he likely reused the seals. You may be able to get a good tank off of a bad radiator for cheap.

Sorry-but that's just bad advice. Get a new radiator. You are talking about one of the best vehicles ever made at any price and you want to cheap out on a $300 radiator?

Get a new radiator, install, and be happy. Good for another 10 years.

 

[DTAYLOR]

Feed the dogs, live and learn.

 

[jamisobe]

Sorry-but that's just bad advice. Get a new radiator. You are talking about one of the best vehicles ever made at any price and you want to cheap out on a $300 radiator?

Get a new radiator, install, and be happy. Good for another 10 years.

Maybe all of those radiator shops should close down and stop doing business since the service they offer is so worthless to you.

I guess I have been wrong all of these years. I have never had a problem with rebuilding a radiator. I expect that this will be the last one I need until I swap the motor. The radiators I have had rebuilt in the past never needed replaced afterward. But hey, if isn't worth saving $300-400 for another mod or if you have $ spilling out of your wallet go the "for sure route". Unfortunately, I have heard of new radiators having leaks after install as well.

I'm not saying that a new radiator isn't a good thing(they are guaranteed if they do leak and if the rebuild fails you still have to buy one). Just that it might be overkill. Especially if you are tight on $.

Sorry, I just think your advice may be a tad myopic.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Maybe all of those radiator shops should close down and stop doing business since the service they offer is so worthless to you.

I guess I have been wrong all of these years. I have never had a problem with rebuilding a radiator. I expect that this will be the last one I need until I swap the motor. The radiators I have had rebuilt in the past never needed replaced afterward. But hey, if isn't worth saving $300-400 for another mod or if you have $ spilling out of your wallet go the "for sure route". Unfortunately, I have heard of new radiators having leaks after install as well.

I'm not saying that a new radiator isn't a good thing(they are guaranteed if they do leak and if the rebuild fails you still have to buy one). Just that it might be overkill. Especially if you are tight on $.

Sorry, I just think your advice may be a tad myopic.

Hey dude-I do have myopia! And presbyopia too.

I would agree with you 100% if, and only if, the 80 series was built with an all metal radiator. Instead it has plastic tanks held to the core with an o-ring and a crimp in the aluminum flange. Not exactly a design that lends itself to a long term fix.

A new radiator is not that expensive amortized over an expected 10 year life span. How much does an overheated 80 series cost out in the middle of west Texas on a hot summer day?

 

[jamisobe]

Hey dude-I do have myopia! And presbyopia too.

I would agree with you 100% if, and only if, the 80 series was built with an all metal radiator. Instead it has plastic tanks held to the core with an o-ring and a crimp in the aluminum flange. Not exactly a design that lends itself to a long term fix.

A new radiator is not that expensive amortized over an expected 10 year life span. How much does an overheated 80 series cost out in the middle of west Texas on a hot summer day?

So IF the plastic tanks are bad replace them or get a new radiator. Otherwise, it can be rebuilt effectively. I know from experience.

I have never had my rebuilt radiator equipped 80 overheat in the middle of Texas on a hot summer day so thankfully I couldn't help you there .

If you are short on $ for whatever reason then options are good to have despite what some say who have for whatever reason never been to a radiator shop ;p .

Ever consider lasix?

 

[DTAYLOR]

Either way, just get it fixed.

Both Jamisobe and Cruiserdrew have very good points. Either way you fix it, just fix it before you have an overheat condition.

I took real good care (I thought) to not lean on my radiator while working on my rig, and broke the tank anyway.

I think the tank replacement is OK if you're on a budget. Just remember that you still have to pull the radiator (a real PITA), and the core is still old once you get the leak stopped.

The new one is a better choice for me, because it is new, ALL new, and one less issue to worry with. One more peice of the rig that has been improved, not "just fixed" to a minimal degree.

But then, I am OCD, ADD, and lactose intollerant. I will not tolerate lactose, under any circumstances.

Good Luck dude, let us know what you end up doing.

D

 

[IdahoDoug]

Agree good points on both sides, but I'm for the new part. I am amazed Jamisobe could find someone who'd pull the rad, remove upper and lower tanks, rod it, reassemble the rad, and install it for $30. I live in a small town where there are still good ol' boy shops and low wages, and they wanted $120 to do this if I brought in the radiator, $250 to also pull and replace the radiator. I nosed around experimentally because I have a couple '93 80 radiators I got free and was wondering about reconditioning them as spares since I'm in the LandCruiser Assistance network for the US. Instead I bought the O rings from Dan and will be disassembling them and having the cores boiled before rebuilding them myself. Should be a fine way to spend a lazy summer afternoon.

Snapping off the nipple is a bummer. To put a fitting on it would require the top tank be removed for access to the inside of it which is likely gonna require the rad be pulled for disassembly. Can't see anyone charging less than $100 for the removal/replacement (time and occupying a stall) and an unknown to drill and epoxy a tube in place. Agree there's a possibility you'll be able to save a couple hundred bucks, but you'll also have the truck down for a couple days. Getting a new rad has benefits of the truck's cooling system being back to factory capability, plus 90 minutes of downtime (provided you look at our FAQ and ignore the FSM's "remove headlights, bumper, driver's seat and back hatch" approach to the radiator replacement (heh).

DougM