4runner front wheels squatting after sway bar removal (1 Viewer)

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My front wheels are now squatting after sway bar removal, does anyone have any tips? thanks -nate-
 
Hopefully by "swaybar" they don't mean "torsion bars".
 
I just replaced the ball joints and shocks. As well as CV boots and such. After I am done putting it back together I leave the sway bar off. I do not have the parts needed at that time to finish that part of the job. Anyways so after I got the wheels back on and set the front end down on the floor its apparent that the botton area of the tires are farther apart than the upper area of the tires.

The wheels are not perpundicular to the ground. This is not good, because this is my winter beater and now my 62 is getting salt on it. :mad: My 62 does not like salt very much.
 
I just replaced the ball joints and shocks. As well as CV boots and such. After I am done putting it back together I leave the sway bar off. I do not have the parts needed at that time to finish that part of the job. Anyways so after I got the wheels back on and set the front end down on the floor its apparent that the botton area of the tires are farther apart than the upper area of the tires.

The wheels are not perpundicular to the ground. This is not good, because this is my winter beater and now my 62 is getting salt on it. :mad: My 62 does not like salt very much.

when you replaced the ball joints, did you remove the lower a-arms? Cause it sounds like you are WAY out of alignment....
 
lower A arms were not removed. However I was hitting a pickle fork with a sledge hammer to pop the ball joints out. But then I was hitting it was towards the engine. So if the A arms came out of alignment I would suspect to have my alignemt situtation reversed, so the bottom of the tires are closer than the tops. I don't think you can do an alignment in your barn on the floor can you?

Do people go to the dealers for this?

How does the pivot point of the lower A arm stay "true" and not change. Is this just a matter of loosing a bolt and nut and playing with it until its right?

thanks for any help.
 
I can't remember, is there a wrong way to put the ball joints in? I don't think so. If not, then you may just need an allignment......

no you cant. the bottom ones are round, and the top has four bolts that only fit one way.




you need to take it in and spend the 50 bucks to get it alinged
 
no you cant. the bottom ones are round, and the top has four bolts that only fit one way.




you need to take it in and spend the 50 bucks to get it alinged

I concur. However, unless his camber bolts were loose, there is really no way this should have have come out of alignment this far UNLESS his old ball joints were that shot... I'd like pics.
 
I am computer stupid and can barley even type the words that you guys are reading. However I do have a digital camera, and kinda know how to use it. I saved the old ball joints and could show them if I could get some help setting up a photo account.

-nate-

:beer:
 
forgot to say I did get it aligned this morning, it is not perfect, I was told the adj. cams were maxed all the way in. Not exactly shure why whatever I did changed the steering geometry that much.

is there a place to get used/new A arms and knuckles, theres not much left of mine.

thanks again...
 
I am computer stupid and can barley even type the words that you guys are reading. However I do have a digital camera, and kinda know how to use it. I saved the old ball joints and could show them if I could get some help setting up a photo account.

-nate-

:beer:

go to www.photobucket.com and register. its easy to do. all you need is a email. once you log in you can upload pics. its easy
 
that is an option. The fella at the alignment shop said how he felt that 4runners last alot longer than most of the suvs he services. Currently we are at a crossroads, me and my dad that is. It is his 4runner, I just work on it for him, and he helps with it now and then. He dosent want to really save it, rather drive it until it dies.

If I could find some clean parts locally that would be good, but this thing needs body work. Are 2nd gens famous for rusting out. And dont get me started about the rear tailgate design, thats where the 3rd gen really has the 2nd gen beat. Besides the engine.

I have found front door shells for 150 online, but I also need rear doors as well. Is there an aftermarket tailgate for these things, something that is built a little better and will not rust?

-nate-
 
let me try to get a account at this photobucket thing, then you will see.
 
billandnatesshit001.jpg
billandnatesshit037.jpg
 

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