FAQ Buying a 60 series lets get it started! (1 Viewer)

[Landcruisin'60]

After searching for answers to my questions about buying my cruiser. I relized there wasn't a FAQ. So I decided we should start one. People can contribute there cruiser buying knowledge to help out the cruiser newbies.

Maybe we could sticky this!

 

[mtb_rider]

There is an FAQ already in the sticky threads section.

 

[Landcruisin'60]

But its not devoted to buying a cruiser. Its a general FAQ.

 

[phishincruisin]

There is a FAQ, but it does not address what to look for when buying a 60, like common rust problems, common mechanical problems, etc. to look out for.

 

[mtb_rider]

Really? It's not devoted solely to buying, but the very first section is titled "Buying an FJ60/62". And it has common repairs and replacements, mods, and a bunch of other stuff. But lets start another. WTH!

 

[Nightshadow]

Just use common sense. Have it checked out throurougly by a mechanic. It'll cost money, but it's well worth it for you're piece of mind. Check for rust, and whatever else you would check for when buying any car... Use you're standards...If you want a vehicle with rust, or you can fix it, then buy it!

 

[phishincruisin]

check for bubbles of rust around the windshield, these can be hidden very well under the rubber molding

 

[Landcruisin'60]

Just use common sense. Have it checked out throurougly by a mechanic. It'll cost money, but it's well worth it for you're piece of mind. Check for rust, and whatever else you would check for when buying any car... Use you're standards...If you want a vehicle with rust, or you can fix it, then buy it!

Why would you bring it to a mechanic that doesnt know what a birfield is?

 

[Texx]

pretty easy really. Buy the newest one you can afford that doesn't have rust, with the least mileage possible. Later models get better fuel mileage, can swap the 5 speed, have the better headliner, and a more capable smog system. Don't buy a rusted 60, there's still plenty of clean ones around, and there are no reliable patchpanels. Spend the money on a clean late model southwest truck and save yourself alot of heartache.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I think it would be great to start a thread specific to "what to look for when buying a 60 cruiser".
It may be common sense but I sure did not have any when I first bought mine and wish I had known about this site back then. I over paid for mine and sure felt like a bottomless pit every time something had to be fixed.
Lots of you have some mechanic skill of some sort.
Lost of us dont have any but are willing to learn.
I know I have learned a lot from this site, thus I think it would be great to do what Landcruisin'60 suggest.

My$0.02 centavos

Cheeers

 

[Nightshadow]

Why would you bring it to a mechanic that doesnt know what a birfield is?

Um... I think that most mechanics (at least ones with brains) know what a birfield is... That was a suggestion, as it is a good idea to bring a used vehicle into a mechainic, a reputable one, and have them check it out before buying. Maybe you are a mechanic...most people arent, so that's what they do.

 

[RredFJ40]

pretty easy really. Buy the newest one you can afford that doesn't have rust, with the least mileage possible. Later models get better fuel mileage, can swap the 5 speed, have the better headliner, and a more capable smog system. Don't buy a rusted 60, there's still plenty of clean ones around, and there are no reliable patchpanels. Spend the money on a clean late model southwest truck and save yourself alot of heartache.

My First Rule: Don't trust a "southwest" truck implicitly. I bought mine from Albuquerque (it was bought new in Santa Fe) and it was loaded with hidden rust. My fault, but just don't assume that a southwest truck has very little or no rust

 

[High Desert]

I've owned a 87 fj60, 84fj60, 88fj62, 79fj40...all regularly tuned, all got, at best, 10-12 in town and MAYBE 14-16 on the road (and then only a true road trip with no stop and go)...From my experience I would not count on a later model having any better gas milage than the first 60 off the line, if it is any better it won't be much better, any thoughts of good MPG should be forgotten..that's a pipe dream with these rigs, an't gonna happen...

Post 85 fj60s do have the advantage of bolting in the 5 spd and bolting on other mods that earlier models have to be worked to accept. However, if it is a clean,maintained rig...any model should be considered,

 

[euclid]

One good source of information is the FAQ

 

[phishincruisin]

i guess people don't get what the point of this is. Doesn't matter, the cruiser in question was purchased for $750. its not mine, but there should be some pictures up later today.

 

[Landcruisin'60]

i guess people don't get what the point of this is. Doesn't matter, the cruiser in question was purchased for $750. its not mine, but there should be some pictures up later today.

Thanks bro. No real pictures yet. It was dark when we got it home. Tomorrow I hope to have some action shots.

 

[Texx]

I've owned a 87 fj60, 84fj60, 88fj62, 79fj40...all regularly tuned, all got, at best, 10-12 in town and MAYBE 14-16 on the road (and then only a true road trip with no stop and go)...From my experience I would not count on a later model having any better gas milage than the first 60 off the line, if it is any better it won't be much better, any thoughts of good MPG should be forgotten..that's a pipe dream with these rigs, an't gonna happen...

Post 85 fj60s do have the advantage of bolting in the 5 spd and bolting on other mods that earlier models have to be worked to accept. However, if it is a clean,maintained rig...any model should be considered,

I have driven three different 86 and 87 FJ 60's that got at least 17 on the highway. I have yet to drive an earlier model that did as well, just personal experience, all were late model low mileage truck with essentially stock tires, speed was held to 70 mph, and all were in good tune, although not necessarily recently tuned. While that alone is not a single reason to pursue a later model, they definitely had less smog problems with the rig as it went along, IMO. I had nine kinds of hell with my 83, and it never got over 14, period. These trucks were all purchased by a (then) major restoration shop, it was just my job to deliver them from the purchase point to the destination, mostly long, flat, open roads. 15 per cent better highway mileage is certainly worth considering to me, were I to ever buy another 60, which I probably won't!

 

[cruiser88]

Why would you bring it to a mechanic that doesnt know what a birfield is?

yes they have not a clue

 

[Dynosoar]

Best advice is to bring a true cruiser head with you when you go to buy. There are people on this forum who know a whole lot about our rigs, and with a little coaxing (read beer and gas money)I bet most would be willing to check out a truck in their local area. I know I would be willing to help (although I am not quite as Knowledgeable as some).

Dynosoar

 

[philos1]

Rust, carfax, maintenance records, receipts.
To me, a clean body is more important than excellent mechanicals (when buying of course). Body work is expensive, and good body shops are difficult to find.
Also, evaluate what you want out of it- trail rig? DD? Weekend escape pod? These will help decide what is right/wrong for your situation...