On my drive home from River Shiver my low beams stopped working. Kind of a pain in the dark and rain, but re-aimed my driving lights and kept going.
Prolly should get this fixed...
<<There's one relay that provides power for both low and high beams. One fuse for the left lamp and one for the right. If the high beams work, the relay and fuses are good. The dimmer switch on the stalk picks which element in the bulb to ground, high or low. If the low beams aren't getting a ground, its either the switch or the wire between the lamps and the switch. You don't have an aftermarket headlight wiring harness on there, do you?>>
I'm not sure what to do next. The two options 60wag lists make sense. But given the test #2 I did above, it seems like my switch is OK, and I've lost the ground? Or maybe I'm confused...
Any advice is appreciated.
Prolly should get this fixed...
- High beams work fine.
- I have a Slee aftermarket harness installed. (It's plugged into the Right-hand OEM headlight socket.)
- Fuses are good.
- The R-W wire from the OEM relay and fuses to the OEM socket is good - test probe lights up when switch is in low beam position.
- With the headlight switch in low-beam position, when I ground the R-Y wire on the OEM headlight socket with the test probe, the probe doesn't light up, but the Slee relay's kick in and the low beams turn on.
<<There's one relay that provides power for both low and high beams. One fuse for the left lamp and one for the right. If the high beams work, the relay and fuses are good. The dimmer switch on the stalk picks which element in the bulb to ground, high or low. If the low beams aren't getting a ground, its either the switch or the wire between the lamps and the switch. You don't have an aftermarket headlight wiring harness on there, do you?>>
I'm not sure what to do next. The two options 60wag lists make sense. But given the test #2 I did above, it seems like my switch is OK, and I've lost the ground? Or maybe I'm confused...
Any advice is appreciated.