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TNT, if you want droop go with downey/rancho hybrid system, the axle shaft actually telescope within one another allowing for 13" of travel
I am specificaly thinking about the 4" balljoint spacer that is used with all those worthless drop bracket lifts.
If you can use a 2" without any mods, this just takes 2" from your droop.
I'm still confused here??
A typical bracket lift, drops the diff and spaces the stock spindle down from the upper arms while relocating the location of the tie rod end mounts.
For a small history lesson, Ball Joint spacers began for use on bracket lift kits but where only 1/2" to 1". Then guys got the idea that a 1-1/2" is the max a stock arm could take and here we all are.
OK, I guess thats the spacer I'm refering to, just not dropping the diff.
my cheapo trailmaster has a big cast piece that appears to separate the upper control arm BJ confused: spacer?) to the spindle
Bear80;1889019 You can add the 1.5" BJ spacers ontop of this however. If you are looking to kick it up with this kit; get a set of 1.5" BJ spacer and take a look into how much you can raise the lower arm stops. This then will give you 1.5" of drop and added compression with the shorter stops.[/quote said:Add the 1.5" BJ spacers ontop of the spindle spacer?
Kick it up?.......... Do you mean lift it?
Yes I do wish to lift it but I want more than eye apeal, I want something functional as well.
2MK a spacer lift removes that amount in droop.
Just now, I think I get what your trying 2 say, do you mean assuming I already have the kit instaled then follow that with a BJ spacer.
I have an 86 4x RET 5sp with a drop bracket "trail-blocker" lift installed ONLY because I bought it this way. It's going away
I have an 85 RET 4Runner with no lift and want a functional, cheap,
quiet, unassuming lift, it's AT and will countiue to be so, trail only, 5-6 on a 1-10 scale
Last night I had a thought, assuming the spindle spacer still could act as spacer, instead of using a longer shaft..........
use a spacer between the tripod housing and diff.
I know I've seen that thing some where?
So to recap, get 4" spindle spacer's(IF) and a tripod housing spacer.
install both, reclocking the Torsen bars to lower the suspension 2"
What do you think?
Last night I had a thought, assuming the spindle spacer still could act as spacer, instead of using a longer shaft..........
use a spacer between the tripod housing and diff.
A bracket lift kit like the "trail-blocker" (funny nick name) actually gives you a little more compression due to the extra leverage and even more so with BJ spacers added. To take advantage of this you need to raise the lower bump stops. Then with the BJ spacers also installed, you gain 1.5" of drop. This is just about the limits you can push any bracket lift kit, which is still better than stock.
Some people have a misconception that a bracket lift which drops the front diff and truss down is a waste of time. HOWEVER, there is EXACTLY the same amount of clearance as stock, but now with the ability to clear LARGER tires. The larger the tires, the smaller the rocks and holes become. Which is why if you want to take full advanatge of a little more center truss clearance AND wheel travel the 1.5" BJ spacers are the way to go, stock or lifted.
IF you try to lift the truck without spacing things down, so that the center truss is higher than the lower arms, you run into 2 major issues. First the design of the steering on these trucks are a weak link. With steeper angles on the tie rods, they are more stressed and with added tow-in forces which are commonly experienced on the trail, will break or bend/break the stock center link rod. This is why new taco's and 4Runners have the steering behind the spindle with rack and pinion. The other issue is what you are addressing, the CV angles.
This is for anyone with questions or anyone thinking of using this type of lift:
Compression or stuff, is usually not needed in most off-road situations, this is the tire travle up. WHEN you need traction its usually because a wheel is NOT in contact with the ground, Droop or down travle gets the tire to the ground where the traction is at.
WHEN you "crank" up or "ball joint spacer" lift the front you are just losing droop or down travle.
Example: if the factory specs. are 2.5" up travle and 3" down. 5.5" total
a 1.5" spacer lift reloacates the factory spec to 4" up travle and 1.5" down.
5.5" still total. because you are not changing any thing just spacing it.
Drop bracket lifts only space things so you can get bigger tires underneth it, because they usualy retain the factory geometry IF YOU DO THIS you are only stressing the factory parts both steering and for the 4wd that are enginered for a 28"x8-9" wide tire:
These statements are of my own opinion.
THX Bear I hope you don't mind the quote I thought it would just be easier this way.