How's this front axle look? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 24, 2006
Threads
11
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63
Location
Keyport, NJ
Been reading the threads on front axle rebuilds and decided to get a good look at mine. Thinking this doesn't look too good.:frown:
 
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Uhhhhhh, yes serious cleaning and a rebuild.

Good luck!:beer:
 
Yowza!

Time for some attention.

Looks like you've got diff. lube getting past the axle seal and mixing with the birfield grease. Probably the other way around too. You'll know when you drain the diff.

Call C-Dan and get after it.
 
Was dreading that response. This would be the biggest automotive job I've ever done. Also this is my DD so if something goes wrong or I screw it up, not gonna be good. What's the time estimate 2 full days? These things usually take me longer than usual. I'm a 5 trips to Home Depot per household project type of person.:eek:
 
That's painful to look at. :frown:
 
well, the good thing is that there probably isn't too much rust under there...! :)
 
Nasty.
 
Are u having any trouble yet; like loud steering clicks and noises? Its a good bet that the inner seals are gone. This work needs to be done about every 65k miles, but its not listed very clearly in the FSM. U do have the FSM for the '97? If ur like me, plan on a 4 day job. The first one (left side) can take u 2 days. The right on about 8 hours or less.

I helped Robbie do mine. He did the whole mess [includeing rear] in 11 hours flat.

Be sure u have Toyota seals; and two extra just in case. Be sure the bearings [if u replace them] are AMERICAN or TOYO. Do not buy bearings made in china or mexico.

Plan ahead, tools, solvent, rags, disposal drums, rags, rags, handcleaner, rags, zip locks for parts, well anyway!!!

Use Amsoil grease for final assembly. This is really fun work.

May u never wash ur hands again!!

...

Get neccessay stuff from Cdan; he knows what u'll need.
 
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Yes I do get some clicking when in a full lock turn. Truck has 145k miles on it and probably never been done. Just bought it 3 weeks ago, so guess I have to make up for lost time.:) Never really checked my 94's front axle and that one has 236k on it.:eek:
 
No grinding noise that I noticed. Tomorrow I'll check it with the window down.
 
Dave G;
There is an option here.

Do u have the center diff engage switch installed? (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_switches.htm) This switch allows u to lock the ctr diff in high range and low range at will. If u do, u can lock the centre diff and remove the front drive shaft; allowing u time to build supplies for the front axle rebuild. There are horror stories on our forum of birfield problems with high mileage.

Others can chime in on other ways to isolate front axle. The idea here is to run in two wheel drive until u get the birfs ( both) fixed.

Just a note of warning!
 
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I'll be a little bit of a contrarian here and suggest no need to wig out. There's supposed to be continuous weeping of grease onto that spherical surface, and the thinner component is indicative new seals and repack are in order. But the far worse scenario is seeing that surface dry. Yours looks like the knuckle is still properly feeding grease out the seals. Personally, I'd pump a half tube of moly grease into each knuckle via the square plug (goes for your 93 also if you have no idea of the state) and drive it until you have the parts and the time together.

Just ensure the front diff is full (pull upper plug and check) as well for peace of mind.

DougM
 
As far as the moly grease goes, is there a grease fitting under that plug and if not how do you pump it in? I like this idea, if just to hold me over until i gather parts, tools, info, and warmer weather.:cheers:
 
Dave G;
There is an option here.

Do u have the center diff engage switch installed? (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_switches.htm) This switch allows u to lock the ctr diff in high range and low range at will. If u do, u can lock the centre diff and remove the front drive shaft; allowing u time to build supplies for the front axle rebuild.

Unless you also install manual locking front hubs, I fail to see the benefit of doing the above. True, you would remove any drive force to the front end, however everything would still be rotating.
 
Looks like it needs a shot of penicillin.....;p


Do a search, There is tons of info, and very detailed...get your parts together and get down on it.......

Take your time and do the proper PREPING..
[ tools, parts, research, also print out any thing that you might think would be helpfull while in your garage tearing it apart...]

I found thats the most important part of any job....preparation...

The parts are really not that expensive....contact C-Dan, he's the man who will get you started right...

Good luck.....
 
Dave G;
There is an option here.

Do u have the center diff engage switch installed? (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_switches.htm) This switch allows u to lock the ctr diff in high range and low range at will. If u do, u can lock the centre diff and remove the front drive shaft; allowing u time to build supplies for the front axle rebuild. There are horror stories on our forum of birfield problems with high mileage.

Others can chime in on other ways to isolate front axle. The idea here is to run in two wheel drive until u get the birfs ( both) fixed.

hello ! i had the same pb and the solution was there !
 

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