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justimaginejack

Looking for a new Cruiser
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Threads
14
Messages
360
Location
St.Louis/ Floyd, VA/ Phoenix AZ
Ok so I bought an LC when I probable should have bought the LX, working on rectifying that. Seems like all LX's come with complete dealer maintinance records.

Either way there are some very serious maintinance issues that need to be made known for newbies. I would like this thread to become a place where we can all place are experiances to save money and time. My first entry is below.

First, check all the fluids, Slee posted a great list of all this.
If they are not clean, you are unsure, don't have maintinance records replace it. Period! This might have saved my radiator. got a used one out of a 100 the way totoled. 450 new, 275 used installed!

That said, as alway find a reputable mechanic who knows the cruiser. The mechanic down the street owns an 80 series limited edition, and told me he know all about them, his technicians couldn't even find the drain plug on my 2000.

If you are over 90K and don't have new belts get them. Blowing a belt can seriously ruin an engine. Learn the maintinance schedule and stick to it.
I skipped a service and got a pinging noise when I shut off the engine. The dealer wanted more than 198.00 for the induction service. I Don't think any real damage was done. A mechanic friend of mine, helped me poor SEA-Foam in the engine and the gas tank. I will post picks later. It shut down the engine, then we let it soak, for about twenty minutes, and turned it back on. The amount of white smoke coming out of the back was unreal. Didn't look like a cruiser exhaust. Apparently this would not have happened had I done the 198.00 induction service. ??? The sea foam worked great, the the pinging is gone. I don't know about all the services yet, which ones are snake oil, and not. I paid less than $6.00 for the sea foam. More experianced guys feel free to chime in. I have heard good and bad things about both and induction service flush and the sea-foam. Either way, as I have mentioned before the PO said she did all of the services at the Toyota dealer. Which to her was changing the oil.

I bought mine with about 99k on it and none of the belts were new, nor had she ever touched the anything else.The fluids were not in good shape, but the Truck still ran like a dream. the differential fluid even had a bit of silver to it.

Other things I noticed is that in moderate mid-west weather, Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w-30 got me better gas mileage than the PO oil, and the others I tried. Castol was close. I am told that for more extreme wheather 0w-30 is better and Mobile One and Castrol German manufactured, NOT made in the USA is better than others. There are many threads on this.
I have done a great deal of research on the Filters and it appear the larger size mobile one filter, posted on the oil filter thread is great. I have used it with no problems to 11,000 miles. The toyota 40000 is made of some different materials. I am not sure what it is, but as others noted it decreased the service interval from 7500 to 5000 with the change. So I am going to stick with the Mobile One and cut it open at 15k. I will post pics.

Another significant heads up, when you get your first higher mileage 100 check the break pads and rotors, if the are mildly warped you won't feel it until they are to late. Get the specs so you know for sure. When You go to replace the front Rotors use slotted vented, like the ones slee has, the wear alot less, especially in city driving.

When your Antenna breaks, don't continue to let it go up and down. I am not sure what broke mine and I pushed it down for a car wash. Had to take it to a mechanic who wanted to charge me for getting all four small broken pieces out. It will be much cheaper for labor to just get it done. I paid 75.00 for one hour of labor and 50.00 for the part.

When you take your tires to the shop, watch them put them back on, if they don't do it with a torque wrench, can't tell you what the specs are, take it some where else. Somebody over torqed a bolt and it warped my right rear rotor.

leather cleaner, I have used them all and they seem to work ok, but what ever it was that the detail shop used seem to get all the rest of the leather clean. I got it detailed and it looked like brand new. I would't waste my time trying to do it yourself unless you want shoulder pains.

When your steering wheel starts to squeek, it will most likely be the boot at the base of it needing to be lubed. I used a silicone with teflon, and it only worked for a short time. A friend had something called cheetah greese and when he spayed it, all the noise went away and has yet to return.

High pitched noise coming from roof/windshield? Three mechanics couldn't fgure it out and the dealer said they had no clue. It was the PO sunroof bug gaurd deflector. It took about six months for it to finally work it's way loose, on a trip during a snow storm across I-70 the thing detached itself and exploded into little pieces. I got most of it out of the drain sills, but not all of it and I can't open the sunroof all the way. Any I deas on how to remove the rest of the remnants with out removing the headliner and taking it apart is appreciated.

I was having trouble keeping tire pressure after a weekend out, I kept filling it up and finally I took it to NTB where I watched them install the tires and they had to do a complete remount because I broke the seal between tire and the wheel. My dad did something similar, only the summer tires on his LS got a huge bulge on the side and had to be replaced. I can still see where I scraped the side wall, they assured me it was minor. He did his paralell parking, my was a tree stump, but either way, I am glad I got it fixed before it blew.

As for the air filters, I can save about ten bucks by getting them at the auto store(o'reilly's). Still researching this, many people have aftermarket filter upgrades, not sure about this, especially if I plan on putting a snorkal in.

Tire balancing and wheel alignment: I would look for a shop where you know they know what they are doing, I found the NTB by my house to have four guys who are just nuts about this stuff. They really know what they are doing. I was able to buy a policy from them fairly inexpensively. Cover's me for five years at any location nationwide. My ES300 has a similar policy with firestone, and I have used it in several locations, but they quality of the technician's have become fairly poor, more sales, less of everything else. Either way I think I only paid 50.00 more for five years than I would have paid Toyota to do it once.

I upgraded the spark plugs to the Denso Iridium because I was told they went to 100K, I now know that they work great, but even at cost(7) there are many high quality ones that you can get for less sincle most recomendations have us replacing them around 60K. they retail for 17.00 a piece.

The rubber mats thing is on here and there are alot of opinions. I bought Weather Techs for my ES300 and wore holes in them very quickly with just daily driving. They were 80.00 I found some at wal-mart for 20 but they were just to small. Sams and Costco have great heavy duty sets for 15-20.00 and while not a perfect fit they do a great job, and save $60.00 I think I will buck up when these wear out and get the pair Slee recomends.

Rear Wiper Blade. At some point it will get stuck, simple fix. At the base of the arm is a little metal cap, pull this back. I required the the use of a loosening agent. I had to let it sit on the cap itself and then on the rusted out bolt for a while. We still used screwdrivers to pry it open. Once the cover was open and the stuff had worked it's magic, I was able to unscrew it, adjusting it took more time and more stuff. Then I cleaned it off and got a new bolt for like .10 cents.

Dings, scratches and getting keyed. I have a friend who runs the Body shop for a Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura Group. He sent me to a window shop that the dealer uses to do custom window tinting and minor paint work. I was waiting for a ridicoulous bill. He fixed the key line on the driverside passenger door, and all four corners which had the paint scraped for $400.00 I can't redo one bumper for that. i was supprised. It beat my buddy's more than 3,000.00 estimate. Yes if you look you can tell, but it is no longer evident. Just suprised to be sent to a place like that. You never know?

I have had it for about a year and a half. Lots of learning experiances. Like many of you I had wanted one for a long time. I just couldn't justify the gas costs. With the miles i do it would be more than $4,600.00 a year. Finally got one and it is my girlfriends dd. She doesn't do nearly as much driving as i do, but how and where she drives seems to have had a significant impact on the vehilce. Rotors are not her friend and neither is carbon. But either way we have been extremely happy with my 100 and am looking for a high quality Used LX at a good price to add to the group. If you see one let me know.

I know this was long and you can find some of this in other places. I just thought we might try to create a one newbie experiance thread. this might consolidate the hours upon hours I spent reading almost every qoute on every thread. Then again I don't think I will stop reading everything. I think My favorite is the LX vs. RX comparison. It gave me a great laugh. Ps my spell check button was broke in 3rd grade and I haven't gotten around to fixin it yet. Sarry,lol!
 
timing belt?
 
That said, find a reputable mechanic who knows the cruiser. The mechanic down the street owns an 80 series limited edition, and told me he know all about them, his technicians couldn't even find the drain plug on my 2000.

There is very little accountability in the automotive repair business. Anyone can call themselves a mechanic if they own a set of tools. If they are fired from one shop for poor workmanship, they can move on to the next. I’m not one for adding more government buracucey but all mechanics working on vehicles operated on the public roadways should be licensed by the State after passing a competency test. This would at least provide a means for a State agency to track consumer complaints by mechanic license number. It is human nature for people to perform better if they are accountable and face the possibly of loosing their license (meal ticket). It seems to me, if the State licenses barbers and home remodeling contractors for the public’s good, they should do the same with mechanics.
 
That's a great point, JP...I completely agree!!
 
There is very little accountability in the automotive repair business. Anyone can call themselves a mechanic if they own a set of tools. If they are fired from one shop for poor workmanship, they can move on to the next. I’m not one for adding more government buracucey but all mechanics working on vehicles operated on the public roadways should be licensed by the State after passing a competency test. This would at least provide a means for a State agency to track consumer complaints by mechanic license number. It is human nature for people to perform better if they are accountable and face the possibly of loosing their license (meal ticket). It seems to me, if the State licenses barbers and home remodeling contractors for the public’s good, they should do the same with mechanics.

That's why I like to take mine to the Lexus dealership, they have good mechanics :), if they are bad the fire them since they can't afford to have bad people.
 
I am in luck, I am too cheap to hire mechanics, and can not afford stealerships

Reputable shops that warranty their work are good finds. Perhaps we should start posting those in here for others.
Example of Thread: Colorado - BMWS Toy shop - list the positive experience
 
Doesn't anyone work on their own 100 here?
A FSM, Craftmans Tools and this site should get you through most any repair.
 
Very important to get the timing belt changed and while you are at it the water pump at or around 90k. The valves are interference and could toast your engine if the t-belt gos.
 
Reputable shops that warranty their work are good finds. Perhaps we should start posting those in here for others.
Example of Thread: Colorado - BMWS Toy shop - list the positive experience

I know 100s are vastly different than FJ60s but there is a thread on this very info in the 60 section. I'm sure some these establishments can work on a 100. Try this...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=42646
 
That's why I like to take mine to the Lexus dealership, they have good mechanics :), if they are bad the fire them since they can't afford to have bad people.

According to one of your postings I read not long ago, you can't even trust a Lexus dealer to change oil. I quote, "Wife had a 92 ES300 when we lived in Atlanta. Had Hennessey Lexus maintain it and at 85K miles they did a oil/filter change. They forgot to put oil in it Drove out of the dealership and by the time the light went on and I got turned around and back to the dealer the engine had been running for 5 minutes. They gave me a free 90K service and a warranty on the engine for any oil related problems from the "Dealer" for up to 120K miles. At around 110K miles it started smoking for about 5 minutes on morning start up. Got it good and warm and traded it at the Springfield Missouri Toyota dealership."
 
This is a great thread by justimaginejack. A bunch of this stuff would have helped me in my purchase.
 
Here is the information in a little easier to read format. I gave topics to paragraphs, numbered and bolded the paragraph titles.

Ok so I bought an LC when I probable should have bought the LX, working on rectifying that. Seems like all LX's come with complete dealer maintinance records.

Either way there are some very serious maintinance issues that need to be made known for newbies. I would like this thread to become a place where we can all place are experiances to save money and time. My first entry is below.

Before purchasing

1. Check all fluids, Slee posted a great list of all this.
If they are not clean, you are unsure, don't have maintinance records replace it. Period! This might have saved my radiator. got a used one out of a 100 the way totoled. 450 new, 275 used installed!

2. Find a Reputable Mechanic
That said, as alway find a reputable mechanic who knows the cruiser. The mechanic down the street owns an 80 series limited edition, and told me he know all about them, his technicians couldn't even find the drain plug on my 2000.

3. If over 90K, Replace belts
If you are over 90K and don't have new belts get them. Blowing a belt can seriously ruin an engine. Learn the maintinance schedule and stick to it.

4. Do not skip any toyota-recommended maintenance
I skipped a service and got a pinging noise when I shut off the engine. The dealer wanted more than 198.00 for the induction service. I Don't think any real damage was done. A mechanic friend of mine, helped me poor SEA-Foam in the engine and the gas tank. I will post picks later. It shut down the engine, then we let it soak, for about twenty minutes, and turned it back on. The amount of white smoke coming out of the back was unreal. Didn't look like a cruiser exhaust. Apparently this would not have happened had I done the 198.00 induction service. ??? The sea foam worked great, the the pinging is gone. I don't know about all the services yet, which ones are snake oil, and not. I paid less than $6.00 for the sea foam. More experianced guys feel free to chime in. I have heard good and bad things about both and induction service flush and the sea-foam. Either way, as I have mentioned before the PO said she did all of the services at the Toyota dealer. Which to her was changing the oil.

I bought mine with about 99k on it and none of the belts were new, nor had she ever touched the anything else.The fluids were not in good shape, but the Truck still ran like a dream. the differential fluid even had a bit of silver to it.

5. Which Engine Oil to Use?
Other things I noticed is that in moderate mid-west weather, Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w-30 got me better gas mileage than the PO oil, and the others I tried. Castol was close. I am told that for more extreme wheather 0w-30 is better and Mobile One and Castrol German manufactured, NOT made in the USA is better than others. There are many threads on this.
I have done a great deal of research on the Filters and it appear the larger size mobile one filter, posted on the oil filter thread is great. I have used it with no problems to 11,000 miles. The toyota 40000 is made of some different materials. I am not sure what it is, but as others noted it decreased the service interval from 7500 to 5000 with the change. So I am going to stick with the Mobile One and cut it open at 15k. I will post pics.

6. Brake Pads and Rotors
Another significant heads up, when you get your first higher mileage 100 check the break pads and rotors, if the are mildly warped you won't feel it until they are to late. Get the specs so you know for sure. When You go to replace the front Rotors use slotted vented, like the ones slee has, the wear alot less, especially in city driving.

7. Do not let a broken antenna go up and down
When your Antenna breaks, don't continue to let it go up and down. I am not sure what broke mine and I pushed it down for a car wash. Had to take it to a mechanic who wanted to charge me for getting all four small broken pieces out. It will be much cheaper for labor to just get it done. I paid 75.00 for one hour of labor and 50.00 for the part.

8. Make sure Tire Shops are using Torque Wrench
When you take your tires to the shop, watch them put them back on, if they don't do it with a torque wrench, can't tell you what the specs are, take it some where else. Somebody over torqed a bolt and it warped my right rear rotor.

9. Leather Advice
leather cleaner, I have used them all and they seem to work ok, but what ever it was that the detail shop used seem to get all the rest of the leather clean. I got it detailed and it looked like brand new. I would't waste my time trying to do it yourself unless you want shoulder pains.

10. Steering Wheel Squeak
When your steering wheel starts to squeek, it will most likely be the boot at the base of it needing to be lubed. I used a silicone with teflon, and it only worked for a short time. A friend had something called cheetah greese and when he spayed it, all the noise went away and has yet to return.

11. High pitched noise coming from roof/windshield?
Three mechanics couldn't fgure it out and the dealer said they had no clue. It was the PO sunroof bug gaurd deflector. It took about six months for it to finally work it's way loose, on a trip during a snow storm across I-70 the thing detached itself and exploded into little pieces. I got most of it out of the drain sills, but not all of it and I can't open the sunroof all the way. Any I deas on how to remove the rest of the remnants with out removing the headliner and taking it apart is appreciated.

12. Tire Damage
I was having trouble keeping tire pressure after a weekend out, I kept filling it up and finally I took it to NTB where I watched them install the tires and they had to do a complete remount because I broke the seal between tire and the wheel. My dad did something similar, only the summer tires on his LS got a huge bulge on the side and had to be replaced. I can still see where I s****ed the side wall, they assured me it was minor. He did his paralell parking, my was a tree stump, but either way, I am glad I got it fixed before it blew.

13. Air Filter
As for the air filters, I can save about ten bucks by getting them at the auto store(o'reilly's). Still researching this, many people have aftermarket filter upgrades, not sure about this, especially if I plan on putting a snorkal in.

14. When doing Wheel-Balancing
Tire balancing and wheel alignment: I would look for a shop where you know they know what they are doing, I found the NTB by my house to have four guys who are just nuts about this stuff. They really know what they are doing. I was able to buy a policy from them fairly inexpensively. Cover's me for five years at any location nationwide. My ES300 has a similar policy with firestone, and I have used it in several locations, but they quality of the technician's have become fairly poor, more sales, less of everything else. Either way I think I only paid 50.00 more for five years than I would have paid Toyota to do it once.

15. Spark Plugs
I upgraded the spark plugs to the Denso Iridium because I was told they went to 100K, I now know that they work great, but even at cost(7) there are many high quality ones that you can get for less sincle most recomendations have us replacing them around 60K. they retail for 17.00 a piece.

16. Rubber Mats
The rubber mats thing is on here and there are alot of opinions. I bought Weather Techs for my ES300 and wore holes in them very quickly with just daily driving. They were 80.00 I found some at wal-mart for 20 but they were just to small. Sams and Costco have great heavy duty sets for 15-20.00 and while not a perfect fit they do a great job, and save $60.00 I think I will buck up when these wear out and get the pair Slee recomends.

17. Rear Wiper Blade
At some point it will get stuck, simple fix. At the base of the arm is a little metal cap, pull this back. I required the the use of a loosening agent. I had to let it sit on the cap itself and then on the rusted out bolt for a while. We still used screwdrivers to pry it open. Once the cover was open and the stuff had worked it's magic, I was able to unscrew it, adjusting it took more time and more stuff. Then I cleaned it off and got a new bolt for like .10 cents.

18. Dings, scratches and getting keyed
I have a friend who runs the Body shop for a Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura Group. He sent me to a window shop that the dealer uses to do custom window tinting and minor paint work. I was waiting for a ridicoulous bill. He fixed the key line on the driverside passenger door, and all four corners which had the paint s****ed for $400.00 I can't redo one bumper for that. i was supprised. It beat my buddy's more than 3,000.00 estimate. Yes if you look you can tell, but it is no longer evident. Just suprised to be sent to a place like that. You never know?

I have had it for about a year and a half. Lots of learning experiances. Like many of you I had wanted one for a long time. I just couldn't justify the gas costs. With the miles i do it would be more than $4,600.00 a year. Finally got one and it is my girlfriends dd. She doesn't do nearly as much driving as i do, but how and where she drives seems to have had a significant impact on the vehilce. Rotors are not her friend and neither is carbon. But either way we have been extremely happy with my 100 and am looking for a high quality Used LX at a good price to add to the group. If you see one let me know.

I know this was long and you can find some of this in other places. I just thought we might try to create a one newbie experiance thread. this might consolidate the hours upon hours I spent reading almost every qoute on every thread. Then again I don't think I will stop reading everything. I think My favorite is the LX vs. RX comparison. It gave me a great laugh. Ps my spell check button was broke in 3rd grade and I haven't gotten around to fixin it yet. Sarry,lol!
 
Important HEADS UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you don't think your vehicle has been properly maintained~had some sort of induction cleaner in it's life be very careful.
If you use Sea Foam, for the pinging/"carbon build up", understand that a poorly maintained engine will have lots of build up. This means massive amounts of white smoke!!! and an extremely hot engine. My brother put this in his "hoopty"(99 pontiac grand am gt se) and the thing smoked for an hour, Just Idleing. His engine over heated when he drove it right afterwards. He did use a full bottle in both his gas tank and his engine. Over kill to say the least. If you suspect carbon build up is bad, or you don't know: Put half the bottle in the engine induction valve and then run it. If it smokes alot, wait to drive it afterwords. Let the engine cool down. Don't think this will be a real problem. The 4.7 V8 is a very cool running engine. Also, understand initially the car is going to make some odd noises. this is just the crap getting worked out and will go away. Also, the throttle will feel wierd, but in a short while it will go from wierd to like new.
Repeat the procedure after you have driven a full tank of gas to get it all worked out. Can be done every 15K, Seafoam was recomended because it doesn't gum itself up like some other cleaners.
 
KATHMANDUCRUISER,

Thank You very Much!!!!!!!!
Verbal/written organization has not been my strong suit recently. I hope everyone benefits from your modifications. They even helped me understand my thoughts better.
 
According to one of your postings I read not long ago, you can't even trust a Lexus dealer to change oil. I quote, "Wife had a 92 ES300 when we lived in Atlanta. Had Hennessey Lexus maintain it and at 85K miles they did a oil/filter change. They forgot to put oil in it Drove out of the dealership and by the time the light went on and I got turned around and back to the dealer the engine had been running for 5 minutes. They gave me a free 90K service and a warranty on the engine for any oil related problems from the "Dealer" for up to 120K miles. At around 110K miles it started smoking for about 5 minutes on morning start up. Got it good and warm and traded it at the Springfield Missouri Toyota dealership."

You made my point, if there was one I was trying to make :). Even a Lexus dealership with a highly trained mechanic can screw up an oil change. They stood behind the mistake and if I would of stayed in Atlanta I'm sure they would of fixed the problem at 110K miles ( I wasn't going to drive it back to Atlanta from Springfield Missouri to get warranty work done), though next time I would of just pulled off on the side of the road and accessed the problem and then got in and kept going until the engine seized up (then Lexus would of gotten me a new engine). I guess the point I'm trying to make is Lexus is going to have the people trained to work on your vehicle and if they screw up they have the resources to cover your butt, including loaner cars. Plus I always like to have my vehicle covered by warranty if I can afford it just more peace of mind. If the vehicle is older and not under warranty like my 95 LC and my 99 LC were, I like to do the work my self and what I can't handle I find the best independant that comes highly recommended and I develop a relationship with the guy and he does all of my harder stuff, that's what I did on my 95 LC, neighbor that owned his own shop and worked on LC's. With the 99 LC in Utah I had a local guy that was a master mechanic, you could eat off his shop floor. He did the timing belt and water pump on the 99 by the book. Reflecting back on what I've just written, it looks like my actions are more do what works best for you, but do it mindfully and with great care, and even if you do that something still can jump up and bite you on the ass :)
 
Doesn't anyone work on their own 100 here?
A FSM, Craftmans Tools and this site should get you through most any repair.

I have always done all my own auto repairs, short of alignment, up until recently. Then my time became more rare and expensive than a mechanic. I still only let the mechanics handle limited repairs and I never let them repair anything without clearing it through me first. I have towed vehicles home from the dealership before!

This frustrates me to the end. I wish I was retired and had the time to do it all myself again.
 
I have always done all my own auto repairs, short of alignment, up until recently. Then my time became more rare and expensive than a mechanic. I still only let the mechanics handle limited repairs and I never let them repair anything without clearing it through me first. I have towed vehicles home from the dealership before!

This frustrates me to the end. I wish I was retired and had the time to do it all myself again.

I'm retired and have all my work done, because I am too busy working on self actualization :)
 
I had read in an ES300 board of someone doing a similar procedure. In fact, many people on that board tried it. Everyone was positive about it. They did mention the ungodly amount of white smoke as well.

I do not think I am brave enough to do the engine induction. However, I am going to drop about a half bottle of seafoam before my next oil change to remove possible sludge build up in the engine pan.
 
Just left the lexus dealer and found out something very interesting. If you don't use snake oil, you may want to read this. I asked the guy about thier induction services. they use a similar fluid to sea-foam and spray it in the engine over a period of time to get a better mixture. He said it is a preferred method of doing it, but he would use sea-foam or techron in is own vehicles to save the money too. When asked if it was snake oil or bs, he said no it is a very effective, albeit not environmentally friendly way of cleaning carbon off. If the Lexus Dealer does it, and they have LX's with well over 200K on them, I will accept it as a viable option. Apparently the noise i am now hearing is form the exhaust. So i will do a search on that. If any of you have had pinging/tinkering noises come form your exhaust and found a solution please let me know. the dealer said it was common for LX/LC to have this problem over 100K and said not to worry about it unless I wanted to spend some bucks???
 
Just left the lexus dealer and found out something very interesting. If you don't use snake oil, you may want to read this. I asked the guy about thier induction services. they use a similar fluid to sea-foam and spray it in the engine over a period of time to get a better mixture. He said it is a preferred method of doing it, but he would use sea-foam or techron in is own vehicles to save the money too. When asked if it was snake oil or bs, he said no it is a very effective, albeit not environmentally friendly way of cleaning carbon off. If the Lexus Dealer does it, and they have LX's with well over 200K on them, I will accept it as a viable option. Apparently the noise i am now hearing is form the exhaust. So i will do a search on that. If any of you have had pinging/tinkering noises come form your exhaust and found a solution please let me know. the dealer said it was common for LX/LC to have this problem over 100K and said not to worry about it unless I wanted to spend some bucks???

The sound from your exhuast is normal, my 99 did it and my 2004 does it. It's made of Stainless steel and pings/tinks all the time. I would suggest for your engine fuel injection to start using Toyota/Lexus recommended fuel. Go to the Top Tier gas website. Some brands on that site Conoco, Quiktrip. They all have fuel additives that will keep your injection system clean.
 

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