How do you bench test a e locker what color wire / s are power and ground
bench test e locker (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jason YY
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- Thread starter
- #3
You know what I really appricate about MUD, the fact that when I ask a dumb question. I get help.
Not try searching.
Thanks.
We will tell you to go search after you pass the 200 post mark.
You *do* realize don't you, that Dan didn't have that information on his fingertips. He probably entered a few key words into the search, spent a few minutes locating the best thread, and handed it to you on a silver platter.
Your question wasn't dumb. You also shouldn't expect someone to do your SEARCHing for you just because they are better at searching than you are.
-B-
you owe me $5 
- Thread starter
- #7
YES I realize that, I also really appricate his help. I tried searching and found a bunch or posts that didn't contain the info I was looking for. I should have been more patient and I would have seen the post he found. It was half way down page two of the results.
I guess I just got frustrated.
Thanks again
- Thread starter
- #8
Dan,
or anyone else If I am reading that right I can power 3 and ground 2 to lock the diff?
then power 2 and ground 3 to unlock. the third is out of the housing allready.
Thats the way I read it.
yeah, you can use a 9V battery with some leads on it to power the actuator.
- Thread starter
- #10
9V really that makes it nice and easy.
If I am just testing the motor do I need to worry about burning up the motor? with 12v ?
Also how often do the fronts have problems?
All problems I read about were rears (three).
Do they fail equally ? or are rear elocker problems more common.
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All my issues were in the front. It hadn't failed, was just dirty. If you have it on the bench I would just use 9V, the 12V will move it too fast to adjust the position and the FSM recommends 9V. 12V won't fry it (that is what it runs on normally).
The problem isn't a failure in most cases, just old hardened grease or unglued magnets in the motor. If you are in the rust belt they can also rot inside. Almost every one I have seen or heard of you can clean it up and it will be as good as new. Mine fire within 1-2 seconds and lock up very quickly.
The problem isn't a failure in most cases, just old hardened grease or unglued magnets in the motor. If you are in the rust belt they can also rot inside. Almost every one I have seen or heard of you can clean it up and it will be as good as new. Mine fire within 1-2 seconds and lock up very quickly.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks again I had seen this on Craigs, wanted to be abe to make sure it worked before buying. Its a front
Now its my front one step closer to running an 80 front in my 60 SUA
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