Is a rebuilt 2f as good as "new"? (1 Viewer)

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SF Bay Area - Redwood City
I'm considering a rebuild on my '87 fj60's 2f with Gary @ MUDRAKs in Sonoma CA. I know Gary does good work and has a solid reputation. What I'm wondering is what to expect my crusier to perform like after a full engine rebuild. Assuming the carb is already in good shape (rebuilt with Jim C 3 years ago) and all that has to be done is the engine work (and it's all done correctly), do I have an essentially "new" motor? Will it run just like off the show room floor 20+ years and 160k miles ago? Or is it not as nice as that? What should I expect?

dave
 
before I read the post itself, my answer was going to be "it depends who rebuilds it." Mudrak has a good enough reputation that I'd say it would be as good or better than new (depending on overboring, milling, header, etc). I wouldn't worry. But i'll let people with more direct experience than mine make the final call.
 
IMO, if you have a professional rebuild ANY motor it's going to be better than new, not to mention if it gets bored over, shaved etc. you'll get a little bit more power squeezed out of it. Whatever you do make sure you (or your builder) don't skimp on cheap parts, buy high quality, you don't want to tear back into that motor for a long long time. I personally haven't ever dealt with Mudrak, but I don't think I've ever read one negative comment if my memory serves correctly. Maybe a few people that have had him do their engines will vouch for his work.
 
Gary rebuild my engine and am very happy with it. I would recommend him for any work on your cruiser. A good engine rebuild is a big part of how it will run but there are a lot of other factors.

I was looking back at your other threads. What makes you think you need a engine rebuild? Did your compression ever come up in #6?

If your out in the east bay, let me know. You are welcome to come by and checkout my engine.
 
Thanks for the info guys. After poking around some more and talking to the guys at my shop I'm pretty sure I have a piston slap problem (as opposed to rod knock or something else). Thats sort of good news since it means I can go a little longer wihtout doing anything about it. But it is slowly getting worse (very slowly).

My initial idea was to just sell the truck and buy a 2005 double cab Taco. But I may not have the money to do that if my wife and I buy a house this year (which we hope to do). So that left me looking for other alternatives in case the engine blew on this truck in the next year. I think I could swing $5k for a rebuild and then just hang on to the truck for a few more years, but only if the rebuild really got her running like new, hence my new question here :)

Still up in the air about it. At least I know if I do have it rebuilt I've got a competant Crusier mechanic nearby.
 
personally i think it will NO WAY be "better than new", but thats asking a lot. it should be adequate and shouldnt require you to tear into it again for a long time but given the parts situation (plus the temptation to shortcut even when the OEM parts are available and are in fact up to original quality) plus the fact that originally it was assembled in a japanese factory with diligence (as evidenced by the longevity of a typical factory motor) i think youre asking a lot for it to be "better than new". but thats splitting hairs to some degree anyway.

in summary i have a lot of faith in japanese engineering, discipline and assembly not to mention the parts used to originally build a motor that went into a car carrying the factory name and reputation and warranty.

one love
jah bill
 
What does Mark think about shaving the head and/or high dome pistons to raise compression? Are you enlarging valves, porting and polishing the head's flow channels? I guess my question is are you stayin within stock rebuild specs or going for a "hot rod"? Lord knows the 2F can stand some "hoping-up" and is strong enough to take it.

Curious to know for that time when I face these decisions.
 
What does Mark think about shaving the head and/or high dome pistons to raise compression? Are you enlarging valves, porting and polishing the head's flow channels? I guess my question is are you stayin within stock rebuild specs or going for a "hot rod"? Lord knows the 2F can stand some "hoping-up" and is strong enough to take it.

Curious to know for that time when I face these decisions.

My goal would be mostly stock setup and mostly OEM parts (thtas how Gary does it anyway). My ideal outcome would be a motor that runs "like new", not "better than new".
 
Hey Guys, I just had mine rebuilt.Before I had it rebuilt it developed a knock or slap.The slap got worse and I took it in for the rebuild.The biggest problem we has was the freeze plugs.The F2 is like a Chevy .They are real easy to rebuild.Make sure the proper freeze plugs are installed.They come in both metric and SAE. They look real close to the same size .The wrong size fits but will pop out under normal cooling system pressure.We fixed that and the truck runs awesome.I also had a new radiator , water pump, hoses and belts replaced.My f2 has headers and 3" exaust.It really runs and sounds great.Good Luck,Dave
 
My goal would be mostly stock setup and mostly OEM parts (thtas how Gary does it anyway). My ideal outcome would be a motor that runs "like new", not "better than new".

Did you get a quote from Mudrak? I'd be curious to hear what it is.
 
I have heard that a rebuilt engine is actually better than new, as the block is "seasoned". I think what that means is that the block has been through thousands of heating and cooling cycles, and that allows it to be a better canaidate for a long lasting engine. I have no clue if that is true or not?

Zack
 
I have heard that a rebuilt engine is actually better than new, as the block is "seasoned". I think what that means is that the block has been through thousands of heating and cooling cycles, and that allows it to be a better canaidate for a long lasting engine. I have no clue if that is true or not?

Zack

Thats definitely true. If you deck plate hone a seasoned block it will hold true better than a brand spanking new one. Its done moving, so to speak. You can reset all the bearing clearances to whatever you see fit, everything can be replaced or refurbished as needed, and you can improve on any factory shortcomings. Especially in areas like balancing, which is often pretty crappy on production motors (f engines included). There is no reason a rebuild cant be better than new.
 
A true quality rebuilt 2F is ALWAYS better than brand new from the factory. The factory is building hundreds and thousands of engines one after the other. They have multiple people working on each one. They have to consider compromises between what it takes to satisfy *most* customers and what it all costs.

A craftsman building one engine at a time, with no one working on it but him, with much greater time to spend on that one engine, with much greater attention to detail and ONE specific customer to satisfy. And his personal reputation on the line when that engine rolls out the door.


Which engine do YOU want in YOUR rig?


Mark...
 
Iffin

I could ever find a decent later 2F head close by for sale, so I could finish my rebuild, I could get you a full report! I know, whiner :crybaby:
 
A true quality rebuilt 2F is ALWAYS better than brand new from the factory. The factory is building hundreds and thousands of engines one after the other. They have multiple people working on each one. They have to consider compromises between what it takes to satisfy *most* customers and what it all costs.

A craftsman building one engine at a time, with no one working on it but him, with much greater time to spend on that one engine, with much greater attention to detail and ONE specific customer to satisfy. And his personal reputation on the line when that engine rolls out the door.


Which engine do YOU want in YOUR rig?


Mark...

That is an excellent point, I never thought of it that like that:doh:.
 

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