EGR Pipe: OEM vs Stainless (1 Viewer)

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I need to replace the EGR pipe and gasket. When you add up the pipe plus all the bits and baubles to go with it, OEM through CDan is cheaper than the Stainless at SOR. Both are special order, so I don't know how long either would take to get here.

Anyone have an opinion on what will work better in the long run? I have spent the day reading all the old posts. Sounds like people tend to replace at least the gasket on a regular basis. I haven't found an actual write up on replacing the pipe. I guess it is fairly straight forward?

:beer: Chad
 
stainless. why worry?
 
Sure you need the pipe or just the gasket ?

Even if pipe is bed, I'd go w/ OEM ( cheaper and supports CDan),
the existing OEM lasted what, 20+ years; I think we won't need one in the year 2027 :)
 
get the stainless pipe, use the OEM gaskets NOT the Kelvar. last time I checked the stainless from SOR was less than OEM......or maybe I was backwards.

done this 3+ times(on late 40's and 60), this is the combo that works

also replace the feral(at the cooler) I always have all the other hardware handy if I need it, big nut, new studs, new nuts

OEM gaskets with OEM pipe are replaced mostly becuase the flange on the OEM pipe will warp(often do to the person installing) but the stainless pipe flange will not warp......gasket should not need to be replaced
 
I think I'll go with the stainless pipe and OEM gaskets. I only want to do this once and I don't want to screw it up while I'm installing it. I do have a few follow up questions. I'm new to all this and am buying tools as I need them. (Did get a 53 piece craftsmens mechanics tool set for Christmas but I haven't been able to it use yet :frown: )

1. You need to trim the stainless pipe. How much do you trim it? Can I get a tool at Home Depot that can trim the pipe?

2. Tricks for getting the 36mm nut off. I read some one got a cheap 1 1/2" wrench and cut it in half. I don't have access to a shop, any easy way to cut a wrench in half? :) Any other suggestions?

3. Anyone know what size the nuts on the exhaust manifold side are? I guess you can get at them from the underside with a ratchet driver and a 6" extension.

I know alot has already been discussed about this. Thank you much.

:beer: Chad
 
Last edited:
get the stainless pipe, use the OEM gaskets NOT the Kelvar. last time I checked the stainless from SOR was less than OEM......or maybe I was backwards.

done this 3+ times(on late 40's and 60), this is the combo that works

also replace the feral(at the cooler) I always have all the other hardware handy if I need it, big nut, new studs, new nuts

OEM gaskets with OEM pipe are replaced mostly becuase the flange on the OEM pipe will warp(often do to the person installing) but the stainless pipe flange will not warp......gasket should not need to be replaced

sorry to hijack but may help others also. Is there any reason I can't use two (2) of the OE gasket in conjunction with the SS pipe from SOR. I have the pipe installed but cut it just slightly too short and it leans out away from the flange a bit. So I wonder if I can have two gaskets to make up the difference.

Please and thanks
 
sorry to hijack but may help others also. Is there any reason I can't use two (2) of the OE gasket in conjunction with the SS pipe from SOR. I have the pipe installed but cut it just slightly too short and it leans out away from the flange a bit. So I wonder if I can have two gaskets to make up the difference.

Please and thanks

Sorry in advance for the barrage of questions (and no answers of course :rolleyes: ):

I assume the studs are long enough? Did you replace the studs when you put the pipe in? How long did it take you to get the SS from SOR? About how much did you trim and what did you use?

:beer:
 

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