Has anyone successfully replaced their rear AHC lines? I think it's time. (1 Viewer)

[Jeremy9A]

I know this topic comes up often. I have searched with various terms and cannot find a thread where anyone ever reported back about replacing their rear AHC lines.

This will be preventative replacement for my 2006 Cruiser. It's time to replace the AHC actuator cushions on my truck. They look like dried out cracked pancakes front and rear. While surveying the damage I looked a little closer at the rear lines and they are puffed up and scaly with rust. If I'm going to be so much as touching these rusty lines to replace the bushings I figure I should just do it right and replace these lines before I'm left stranded. I have a couple long distance trips planned this year that involve loading up the truck, camping, and exploring-so avoiding a suspension related breakdown would be nice.

I plan to keep the system operational and replace with new parts rather than rig up something. In the big picture the cost isn't really that steep seeing as how the rest of the system is operational and rides correct and comfortable (besides the aforementioned crusty pancake looking bushings).

I'm wondering how terrible of a job it really is?
Whether the body actually does need to be lifted much off the frame?
Has anyone actually replaced their lines? They never seem to come back to report any failure or success after starting a thread.

I have seen where people cut a hole in the body to access the top of the actuator and I've accepted that level of molestation may be necessary.

Any experience or words of encouragement?

 

[SteveH]

Spray everything now with a penetrating oil or ATF - long before you put a wrench on anything.

In the meantime, I would study the parts on your truck, and then look at how they are sold and what they cost and come up with best/worst case scenarios as to what will snap off and require replacement.

I have the hard/crusty upper shock cushions on the rear, and they are staying put. Looks like way too much work to get to. I would do all the other cushions. My question is this: can one replace the lower shock eye bushings in situ, without removing the shock itself? That would save us all the 'rear upper shock access' agony. I don't know if there is room under the truck to press out that lower shock eye bushing, but I may try to find out.

 

[Jeremy9A]

In the meantime, I would study the parts on your truck, and then look at how they are sold and what they cost and come up with best/worst case scenarios as to what will snap off and require replacement.

It looks like I'll be into the job with:
Both rear AHC lines
Bushings for bottoms and tops of actuators/shocks (Front and Rear)
O rings for AHC lines to actuators/shocks
Stabilizer bar to frame bushings and link bushings (Front and Rear)
AHC Fluid

Without getting exact prices I am figuring between $800-$1200

I do wonder if it might be worthwhile to just replace the actuators/shocks with new ones seeing as how they will come with new bushings saving some time with pressing the bottoms out, and the parts will be new and shiny. They look like they run around $220 each.

My question is this: can one replace the lower shock eye bushings in situ, without removing the shock itself? That would save us all the 'rear upper shock access' agony. I don't know if there is room under the truck to press out that lower shock eye bushing, but I may try to find out.

I'm pretty sure somebody accomplished this in one of the treads I've come across. Personally I'd like to remove things completely and replace it all at once.

 

[packeted]

Interested to hear how you guys get on, I just ordered new front AHC shocks from McGeorge so I can replace all the bushings on my 06 LX. Planning to replace all the accumulators, rear springs, and sway bar links at the same time.... Haven't even contemplated the rears yet but maybe after the fronts.

 

[wildsmith]

I had to drop the fuel tank to get the left rear line in, which meant taking the rear drive shaft off too. I did try without, but couldn't make it work, ymmv. I don't think the right side had any extra access restrictions. I have a 25mm body lift, and one of the reasons for that is easier access to AHC lines and the top of those rear rams. I used an induction bolt heater on the little bolts that hold the line to the ram to help avoid them snapping. I replaced the rams and top bushings as well.

The fronts were much easier than the rears.

 

[Jeremy9A]

I had to drop the fuel tank to get the left rear line in, which meant taking the rear drive shaft off too. I did try without, but couldn't make it work, ymmv. I don't think the right side had any extra access restrictions. I have a 25mm body lift, and one of the reasons for that is easier access to AHC lines and the top of those rear rams. I used an induction bolt heater on the little bolts that hold the line to the ram to help avoid them snapping. I replaced the rams and top bushings as well.

The fronts were much easier than the rears.

Thank you. This is the kind of information I was looking for.

Did you replace the lines due to failure or just preventative? Did you notice any change in the ride after new bushings were installed?

 

[wildsmith]

The left rear line burst due to corrosion. Luckily I had been planning to change the lines and rams as preventative maintenance and already had them on hand. The old bushings weren't in too bad condition so I can't say changing those made a difference I could detect but it may have done. The rears are a bit of a pita to do, because of the poor access, but knowing they're done is well worth it imo.

 

[uHu]

...My question is this: can one replace the lower shock eye bushings in situ, without removing the shock itself? ....

Yes, you can. Or rather: I changed front and rear shock bushings without removing the shocks. Not too much work to press out and in with a C-clamp, or cut out the old bushing-sleeves with a saw. (I have done both) You can also replace the shock outer sleeves if they are rusty, and replace with plastic tubing.

 

[Jeremy9A]

Parts are ordered.

I'm basically going to replace:

• Both rear lines with o rings (they are on borrowed time)
• Actuator lower cushions front and rear
• Actuator upper bracket/cushions front and rear
• Actuator lower bushings front and rear
• Front actuator o rings
• Rear Stabilizer bar bushings
• Front Stabilizer bar Bushings
• Front and rear stabilizer links and bushings (Not included in parts list)

I have my list with part numbers in case anyone is interested

 

[FxFormat]

I have replaced both rear lines for someone without dropping the tank or moving the muffler. It’s just tricky and requires a lot of cursing and snaking the line out. If you’re replacing the line then just go ahead and cut it out, don’t need to try to snake it out. Use the rubber bendy part and snake it back in, it’s not too bad, oh and I had a lift so it made it easier.

 

[Jeremy9A]

I've acquired the parts and now need to find the time. The rear AHC lines at the top of my old list have been superseded as shown on the receipt. I've attached the part numbers on the receipt for all of the bushings relating to the AHC actuators and stabilizer bars (no links), and the parts diagrams for my 2006 Land Cruiser with AHC since they may end up being helpful to somebody.

 

[Jeremy9A]

I started with the easy stuff that won't have the truck disabled with AHC components disconnected. These three sets of bushings made a noticeable difference in handling and feeling much more stable. The truck doesn't feel nearly as much sway/tippy when driving over uneven transitions in the roads. It almost felt "top heavy" before replacing these bushings.



The pile...

First the front stabilizer bar bushings P/N 48815-60111 (X2). These bushings were shot and didn't look nearly as bad while still installed.

The rear stablilzer bar bushing had also seen better days. P/N 48815-26250 (X2)

The little bushings that go into the ends of the rear stabilizer bar. P/N 90385-11021 (X2). These little bushings had a lot of play and somehow made no noise at all. In fact none of these bushings made any noise/clunks/creaks/squeaks/bleeps/sweeps

 

[Tentsontop]

Looks like I'll be replacing the right rear 49163 60011 hose. Have you dug into this already?

 

[usedname]

Are you doing any front bushings right now, besides the front sway? What about front end links?

What about body mounts or engine/tranny mounts?

 

[Jeremy9A]

Looks like I'll be replacing the right rear 49163 60011 hose. Have you dug into this already?

I'm hoping to find time in the next few weeks here with the weather getting decent.

 

[Jeremy9A]

Are you doing any front bushings right now, besides the front sway? What about front end links?

What about body mounts or engine/tranny mounts?

Front links and the little bushings on them look to be in decent shape. I'll get a better look once I get at the front actuators. Front actuators are getting new upper and lower bushings.

I haven't looked into the body/motor/or trans mounts. So far just replacing the obviously wasted stuff.

 

[Tentsontop]

I know yours is a 2006, but I wonder what the difference is between the 49163 - 60041 that you got and the part number that is for 1998s. I've been trying to order it using the original and updated part number, but all of them have been cancelled because they have not received any word on when the part will be available. I'm going to call Lexus next week and see if they can figure it out. I really don't want to end up converting the suspension over one hard to get part.

 

[Tentsontop]

Looks like there's only 2 in the US according to Lexus. Now, just one as I just ordered one of the two for my LX.