So, help me understand that picture, did that rip out of the firewall? It looks like that shaft had been reworked before. In any case maybe time to up grade.
Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD (1 Viewer)
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- #562
It's a Borg steering box conversion and it sheared off at the rag joint.
Got it, rag joints, I guess they had their place back in the day, but I don't like them. What's your plan for repair?
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- #564
Probably going to find a replacement piece of metal (No idea where those come from) and cut a piece of tire to replace the rag part.
I'm thinking it's close to the time when Zeke needs to find another home with someone who can put the time and effort in to improve the rig. My FJ40 is sucking up all my time and attention.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Get rid of da 40
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- #566
Got the steering box out. Seems those decades of collecting tools weren't completely wasted.
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- #567
It seems to be a Saginaw steering coupler that has come apart.
The advantage is there are lots of parts available.
The disadvantage is that there are 380 bazillion non-compatible versions, all of which look alike, and internet version consistently return manual couplers in the first 80 million pages of results.
DON'T be a F*cking PO, is the lesson this teaches. Maybe before you bubba a Saginaw setup, butcher a frame and make a completely retarded steering set up, using 80 u-joints, and open to the air cobbled together pillow block and a four point adjustment for the steering pump, (Hint: any more than 2 pivots results in zero adjustability you moron) just use a Toyota solution instead, hmmm?
And if the PO who did this reads this **** you. If I ever meet you I would gladly beat you with a baseball bat. Taking my time. From the toes up.
The advantage is there are lots of parts available.
The disadvantage is that there are 380 bazillion non-compatible versions, all of which look alike, and internet version consistently return manual couplers in the first 80 million pages of results.
DON'T be a F*cking PO, is the lesson this teaches. Maybe before you bubba a Saginaw setup, butcher a frame and make a completely retarded steering set up, using 80 u-joints, and open to the air cobbled together pillow block and a four point adjustment for the steering pump, (Hint: any more than 2 pivots results in zero adjustability you moron) just use a Toyota solution instead, hmmm?
And if the PO who did this reads this **** you. If I ever meet you I would gladly beat you with a baseball bat. Taking my time. From the toes up.
I wrote a letter to a “service” company once that I enclosed with my payment for “service”
this reminds me of that letter
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- #569
Just to revisit what brought us to this place, here are some pics of the Saginaw conversion we have.
I can't get a clear picture of it with my cell phone, but there are no less than 4 adjustment points for the bracket. Anyone with clear logic trains will understand that the maximum amount of adjustment on any one plane is 2. Any less than 2 produces instability. Any more than 2 creates an inability to adjust at all. I understand how the guy who made this conversion painted themselves into this corner in the attempt to keep the stock pump aligned with the available pulley; but instead of starting over, they just kept adding steel straps and bolts. I'm told there is a new adjustable bracket available for this and will research that.
This pillow block makes me snicker. Until it makes me cuss. Despite it's crude appearance, it works. Except it's mounted to the fender, instead of something solid like the frame WHICH IS DIRECTLY BENEATH IT. I'd like to mount it to the frame, and make it a real pillow block instead of some butchery welded with a stick welder.
I can't get a clear picture of it with my cell phone, but there are no less than 4 adjustment points for the bracket. Anyone with clear logic trains will understand that the maximum amount of adjustment on any one plane is 2. Any less than 2 produces instability. Any more than 2 creates an inability to adjust at all. I understand how the guy who made this conversion painted themselves into this corner in the attempt to keep the stock pump aligned with the available pulley; but instead of starting over, they just kept adding steel straps and bolts. I'm told there is a new adjustable bracket available for this and will research that.
This pillow block makes me snicker. Until it makes me cuss. Despite it's crude appearance, it works. Except it's mounted to the fender, instead of something solid like the frame WHICH IS DIRECTLY BENEATH IT. I'd like to mount it to the frame, and make it a real pillow block instead of some butchery welded with a stick welder.
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
Weird how this wasn’t noticed until now
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- #571
Yeah, I noticed it. Have been nursing it along for quite awhile in fact, is posted about it earlier in this thread.Weird how this wasn’t noticed until now
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- #572
Doing work.
Used a Dorman 31000 and 31002 kit to rebuild the rag joint. Neither kit was correct and it Doesn't fit perfectly, but can be persuaded.
My plan is to assemble the shaft to the steering box and stab it in through the left hand valance, much like an engine tranny combo. The order of assembly is such that you can't do it any other way for clearance reasons
Used a Dorman 31000 and 31002 kit to rebuild the rag joint. Neither kit was correct and it Doesn't fit perfectly, but can be persuaded.
My plan is to assemble the shaft to the steering box and stab it in through the left hand valance, much like an engine tranny combo. The order of assembly is such that you can't do it any other way for clearance reasons
nice dickies pic.
Man, I just bought a six pack of those today, part my Summer wardrobe. 
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
With Mandals or without 
Brogans 
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- #577
Ok, assembled it and it's between 2 to 3 inches too short.
I slide the input shaft until its barely engaging, and it's still 2 inches too short.
The column doesn't appear to adjust in any way. The pillow block has zero fore and aft movement.
The only thing I can think is that they had the input shaft barely on there and had stretched the rag joint as hard as possible to get it to fit. Things which I believe led to its ultimate failure.
It appears to me I'm in for a redesign of this particular atrocity.
I slide the input shaft until its barely engaging, and it's still 2 inches too short.
The column doesn't appear to adjust in any way. The pillow block has zero fore and aft movement.
The only thing I can think is that they had the input shaft barely on there and had stretched the rag joint as hard as possible to get it to fit. Things which I believe led to its ultimate failure.
It appears to me I'm in for a redesign of this particular atrocity.
Sounds like the appropriate solution, start over and do it right. You never know if the guy you sell it to has a bigger bat.
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- #579
Just because the frame has been cut up, I'm probably going to stay with the Saginaw.
Right now the plan is to install a real tensioning mount for the pump, extend the column to fit, and to either find a way to run direct from the steering wheel or use a real sealed pillow mount (greaseable, natch). I also will replace the battered fluid lines.
With that, most of the issues with steering will be fixed.
Any inside info on Saginaw pump adapters for the 2F?
How about this one?
www.jtoutfitters.com
Right now the plan is to install a real tensioning mount for the pump, extend the column to fit, and to either find a way to run direct from the steering wheel or use a real sealed pillow mount (greaseable, natch). I also will replace the battered fluid lines.
With that, most of the issues with steering will be fixed.
Any inside info on Saginaw pump adapters for the 2F?
How about this one?
Saginaw Power Steering Pump Mount Land Cruiser 1F & 2F – JT Outfitters
www.jtoutfitters.com
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There's at leasr 4 different types of pump mounts for a 2F, more if it's a late 2F block. I've tried 3, still looking for the perfect one.
