What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (16 Viewers)

[Ackcruisers]

Installed new OEM Toyota FL 48304-60010 and FR 48304-60020 as well as LR/RR 48304-60010 spring bump stops. Also installed OEM Toyota visors 74310-90301. Like with most aftermarket parts, the visors failed after a couple of years of light use. I considered keeping the plastic on them like your grandmothers living room couch.

 

[flee]

Chased down my carburetor adjustment problem
Weber 38 DGAS on 74 1.5F with headers and an HEI lightning strike.

Could NOT get this adjusted...

It was running rich... installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator which i had not done upon install and set it to 2.5lbs.

I had jetted it for sea level when i arrived in Florida from Colorado, but when i checked the choke side idle, it was loose when set into screw. I pried the opening until it fit snugly.

Once i found that flaw, i could set timing and adjust idle mixture. It would not adjust before as it was dumping excess fuel on choke side idle.

My timing light died out, but i think i have it around 10• -12• advanced.
No ping, no run-on.
I installed new NGK plugs gapped at .040 for that distributor.

I'm still burning oil, but man she is running smooth and strong.

I think my 7-9 lbs out of stock mechanical pump was overwhelming the float AND enough pressure to push out that choke side jet. Dumping fuel.

Now i could use some advice on how to mount that fuel pressure reg...
See pics
I "strapped" it out of the way with whatever i had on hand. I see that i could bolt a bracket of some kind into the manifold below the carb??? I could use a piece of old muffler hanger i have but i still need to fix the regulator to it somehow??? Without linking the hose, without dropping hose or fuel onto the exhaust...

View attachment 3282752

View attachment 3282753

Yes, the instructions that came with my 38DGAS said to keep fuel pressure to no more than 4psi. I used a Holley regulator and added a gauge.
The Holley reg came with a small bracket that made mounting it to the fender a snap.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Installed new OEM Toyota FL 48304-60010 and FR 48304-60020 as well as LR/RR 48304-60010 spring bump stops. Also installed OEM Toyota visors 74310-90301. Like with most aftermarket parts, the visors failed after a couple of years of light use. I considered keeping the plastic on them like your grandmothers living room couch.

View attachment 3282790

Sweet 1976 FJ40, congrats mate!

PS. Is your colour the Sky Blue (Code 854)?

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

Chased down my carburetor adjustment problem
Weber 38 DGAS on 74 1.5F with headers and an HEI lightning strike.

Could NOT get this adjusted...

It was running rich... installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator which i had not done upon install and set it to 2.5lbs.

I had jetted it for sea level when i arrived in Florida from Colorado, but when i checked the choke side idle, it was loose when set into screw. I pried the opening until it fit snugly.

Once i found that flaw, i could set timing and adjust idle mixture. It would not adjust before as it was dumping excess fuel on choke side idle.

My timing light died out, but i think i have it around 10• -12• advanced.
No ping, no run-on.
I installed new NGK plugs gapped at .040 for that distributor.

I'm still burning oil, but man she is running smooth and strong.

I think my 7-9 lbs out of stock mechanical pump was overwhelming the float AND enough pressure to push out that choke side jet. Dumping fuel.

Now i could use some advice on how to mount that fuel pressure reg...
See pics
I "strapped" it out of the way with whatever i had on hand. I see that i could bolt a bracket of some kind into the manifold below the carb??? I could use a piece of old muffler hanger i have but i still need to fix the regulator to it somehow??? Without linking the hose, without dropping hose or fuel onto the exhaust...

View attachment 3282752

View attachment 3282753

I love it!!!

It ain't a real classic ride until it has something being held on by galvanized steel pipe strap!! Usually an exhaust pipe, but a fuel line is a great second option!!

 

[Ackcruisers]

Sweet 1976 FJ40, congrats mate!

PS. Is your colour the Sky Blue (Code 854)?

Thank you. It’s rewarding upgrading to OEM parts on our trucks.

Yes, paint color is 854 blue.

 

[CruisingTheLand]

I’m not a doctor, but I’m pretty sure I’m going to be doing valve stem seals this week

“Seals”

 

[PRETRD]

My weekend: Exhaust work completed , windshield gasket replaced, higher amperage installed alternator, fan spacer, color buffed and put 40 miles on it.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

It’s been busy so here is WHYDTYLDTW.

I finished install my rear ARB locker and remote vent. This also included new wheel bearings and seals. Fortunately, I was sold a front locker instead of a rear one so now I’m ready to install a front locker as well.

43B0C614-B84D-4F31-AC0E-8EE8E326D64F.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Mar 27, 2023

While doing the shakedown run, I wondered what my air pressure was so I ordered the DD bim pressure unit.

I started working on the interior upholstery. I bought a sheet of ABS and used the current door cards template taped to the ABS sheet to route a new blank.

86A117F3-FF0B-4756-BA83-BC505BC31284.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Mar 27, 2023

I'll fiberglass speaker rings onto the new ABS card, cover with second skin foam and then cover with the same vinyl as my seats. I'll also cut 6 x 56 inch ABS strips for the space at the bottom of the top at wraps around the back. This will also be sound treated and covered with vinyl. But I'll need to heat and bend the strip to match the rear corner. I was just going to use a paint can but I decided to do some research and measure it the right way. I'm sure most of you either know the dimensions or know the technique, but I'll leave this here for posterity.

Use a square on the outside of the curve. Measure the distance from the corner to where the square touches the curve. I got 6 inches.

96114291-94C2-44D0-941C-1237562A82B2.jpeg

• MaltbyPenn
• Mar 27, 2023

 

[jmylie]

Had the 55 out the other night and noticed no backup lights. Checked and 1 bulb burned out and the wire for the other broken.

Time to upgrade my backup lights. The broken wire turned out to be both a broken wire and bad contact within the light fixture.

Looked around all the "junk" saved over the years and I did have a spare backup light fixture.

Put it all back together and replaced the bulbs with LED bulbs from Odd Iron Offroad.

Cleaned up the wires and what a difference.

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

Been focusing on my 60 series lately but took Ethel out on the town.

 

[JackA]

Curious how difficult it was removing old steering box and installing rebuilt unit? I need to do this on my ‘78. Thanks. Tom

Easy peasy. I can help you when you're ready.

 

[sterling]

Ran Hurricane Creek trail in NC.

 

[sterling]

Hurricane Creek this was my rear view, my amby door lock hates its job apparently.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Started cleaning and sanding on the inner tub.

J

 

[projectTuRD]

Bolted down the carburetor, trimmed the u bolts, changed a tie rod end, bolted the shocks in, ordered a fuel fitting and most importantly, mounted the front license plate bracket.
Next up is to figure out the best way to incorporate the new front brake lines (10mm) to my 9mm truck.

 

[mattressking]

Spent some time fixing this up and getting it working. Turned out great I think. Used the 40 series rear tail lamp lens screws which are exactly 2mm longer. Left is original, right are the new oem screws. Ended up making a new gasket from 5mm closed cell foam. The body gasket is very pliable and in great shape. The original bullet connector for the power wire is long gone and the lead is cut down so I crimped a female connector on so a bridge wire could be used to mate to the original wiring.

 

[lcwizard]

long overdue 40 project
Both corners and rear sill needed replacing.
Custom springs from Alcan, rears are 6" longer, axle pushed back about 4", 160 lb spring rate, 80 rear axle,
Saginaw, 2nd gen 5.7 with Vortec heads, sm465 to 203 doubler, split case with 3:1 Mark's gears

 

[lcwizard]

Replaced forward rear hangers and shackle hangers with late model so I could use the 18mm spring and shackle pins. The late forward
hangers have factory bracing that the earlies don't.
60 series rod ends and a 1 3/8 x .313 wall tie rod. Wagoneer pitman arm with GM hi angle rod end at that position
Front axle widened to match 80 rear, 4:88 with ARBs front and rear Have to build the cage and paint. Have Beards Superseats to set into the cage.
I'll obviously have a familiar tire carrier . I may build up an Aussie Grill guard. It has sentimental value since it was my first commercial offering 33 years ago with Man-a-Fre

 

[lcwizard]

Bolted down the carburetor, trimmed the u bolts, changed a tie rod end, bolted the shocks in, ordered a fuel fitting and most importantly, mounted the front license plate bracket.
Next up is to figure out the best way to incorporate the new front brake lines (10mm) to my 9mm truck.

View attachment 3283933

That's pretty simple. Go to the closest 9 mm flare nut, cut it off, install a 10mm nut and reflare the brake line. The tube diameter is the same

 

[405]

Put some new K02s on the factory steel wheels