Best replacement radiator for the money today... (3 Viewers)

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And fyi, this is about the all aluminum (performance) radiator… not the standard replacement type.

So far customer service says "You'd have to talk to one of our distributors"...


CSF - a brand of aftermarket radiators and associated products "Cooling Systems & Flexibles"
 
So here's the update.

Got in touch with a technical sales guy at ATech Motorsports ~ believe they are the wholesale distributor component of Summit.

He called his contact at CSF and found out that they do have a new aluminum radiator for the 100 series.

Part number 7207 retail price is $499.

Special order for now and a good three weeks out given that they just got into the system.

Stock radiator can be at the Toyota dealer tomorrow...
 
Nice. You did some recon!

Btw, the guy at CSF says they're in at the facility and just needs to finish up some data... should be ready by end of week~
 
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Nice option (ALA it fits)
 
Was almost the ~second person to have one of those CSF aluminum radiators.

One of the Youtube 100 series / overlander guys did a video where he didn't reveal the brand and promised an upcoming review. There were some notable gaps in the install video which left me wondering...

In the end a stock radiator ordered online and picked up at my local dealer was considerably cheaper and gave me peace of mind.
 
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"In the end a stock radiator ordered online and picked up at my local dealer was considerably cheaper and gave me peace of mind."

This is the most important thing of all !!

Why we are trying to re-engineer and/or reinvent a part that has shown itself to last about 150-175k miles is challenging for me to understand. I just replaced the one on our 2003 LX. Over 180k on it. I did the one on my 2003 LC at maybe 175k. It now has 280k on it.

Land Cruisers were, and are, very high quality vehicles with high quality parts. High quality replacement parts are not inexpensive.

Get a factory radiator from a proper dealer at the best price you can. One and done.

Keep the Cruiser Faith !
 
Went the CSF radiator route this time around. Perfect fit and finish with drop-in easy install. 2000 miles with new radiator and zero issues so far. We'll see how it holds up.
Debatable advantages over OEM style - All AL construction with higher efficiency and capacity.
Advantages over AL Mishimoto radiator - CSF was an exact drop in with no adjustments needed and CSF came with the foam insulation.
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^ That looks good.

Please post your running temp ranges : both coolant & trans when you have time. Will be an interesting comparison.
 
Very nice! I didn't mention it, but I was have the 2nd CSF Alum Radiator for the 100 series... Only thing is Its still on my shelf at the moment.
Glad to see you have it installed and went well...

Currently I have a Mishimoto Alum radiator (for about 10 months)... and maybe around a 1500 miles on it. Got some trails and wheelin, and worked fine.
Been watching temps and stuff.
Its perfectly fine... but will be swapping to the CSF Alum radiator when my LX has it's next down time.

The CSF core may be better, with their "B Tubes" as well, and is proven in many performance and race cars, including our own company race team.

Mishimoto has "Lifetime Warranty"... which is nice peace of mind too.

Anyway, when I get around to it... likely this yr... I'll shoot some comparison pics between the Mishimoto and CSF aluminum radiators.
(Too bad I threw away my stock one... should have take some pics of it)
 
^ That looks good.

Please post your running temp ranges : both coolant & trans when you have time. Will be an interesting comparison.
@abuck99 I've got ODBLink hooked up to it. I'll post up some temps tomorrow.
 
Well the $162 KoyoRad I installed in August of 2021 bit the dust. Have a leak from where the plastic meets the fins at the top coolant hose connection.

The CSF is tempting, but I think a T.Rad is what I will be installing since the original made it 14 years.
 
Well the $162 KoyoRad I installed in August of 2021 bit the dust. Have a leak from where the plastic meets the fins at the top coolant hose connection.

The CSF is tempting, but I think a T.Rad is what I will be installing since the original made it 14 years.
Bummer, I hate to hear that since my Koyorad is about a year old now.
 
Someone posted another thread about their mshimoto blowing off hoses- due in part to higher pressure system and in part to lubing the inlet/outlet with dielectric ( not good) - the Mishimoto cap was a 19psi cap. I noticed that the CSF aluminum posted above is a 20psi cap. OEM is a 16psi cap. Not sure how the increased system pressure may affect anything but it if the system was designed for 16psi- does 19 or 20psi impact gaskets, fittings, other smaller hoses through the throttle body-head gaskets ? Higher PSI cap will increase boiling point of a closed system, but is it worth it? Does it matter if the CSF need runs a 20psi or 16psi cap? I would run the OEM cap on the CSF and measure running temps against OEM radiator.
 
Someone posted another thread about their mshimoto blowing off hoses- due in part to higher pressure system and in part to lubing the inlet/outlet with dielectric ( not good) - the Mishimoto cap was a 19psi cap. I noticed that the CSF aluminum posted above is a 20psi cap. OEM is a 16psi cap. Not sure how the increased system pressure may affect anything but it if the system was designed for 16psi- does 19 or 20psi impact gaskets, fittings, other smaller hoses through the throttle body-head gaskets ? Higher PSI cap will increase boiling point of a closed system, but is it worth it? Does it matter if the CSF need runs a 20psi or 16psi cap? I would run the OEM cap on the CSF and measure running temps against OEM radiator.
I pitched the higher rated Mishimoto radiator cap and stuck with an OEM. Didn't make sense to change that design component.
 
I just had buddy who also put in a Koyorad. He couldn't figure out why he was seeing leaks. Turns out the replacement cap he bought was 20psi. Replaced with a 16 and all seems well now.
 

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