Looking for a quick diagnosis "Engine Tick" (1 Viewer)

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Aug 12, 2022
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Looking at purchasing a 1996 FJ80 has an engine tick. Anyone know what this could possibly be?

 
Crack in the exhaust pipe at the wye.
Power steering gear buggered.
Rod bearing going out.

Or nothing.
 
Thank you I’m new to the 80s. It could be a lot of things I understand, but trying to avoid a compete tear down.
Look at the items in that order. Seriously. I'm not being a dick.

What does the ACTUAL oil pressure read? The gauge on these is known to be highly inaccurate and there are no numbers on it. Install an external gauge to verify.

Send out an oil sample to Blackstone labs to check for contaminants.

Negotiate it down as if it's a rod knock, then diagnose it accordingly. Maybe you'll win, maybe you'll break even.
 
Look at the items in that order. Seriously. I'm not being a dick.

What does the ACTUAL oil pressure read? The gauge on these is known to be highly inaccurate and there are no numbers on it. Install an external gauge to verify.

Send out an oil sample to Blackstone labs to check for contaminants.

Negotiate it down as if it's a rod knock, then diagnose it accordingly. Maybe you'll win, maybe you'll break even.
Don’t think you’re being a dick at all. I appreciate the help. Could be a great deal if I can get it on the cheaper side.
 
Sounds like a knock but you would have to cut the oil filter or send in a sample, worst case tear it down after the fact.

I just rebuilt my engine due to rod knock for about $10k most shops will quote anywhere between $15k-$30k.




This guys has a knock and also sounds super similar to your video (post# 169).

 
Yeah I’ll probably pass. 10-15k to rebuild I can find one for less correct.

Just my opinion but I would anticipate an engine rebuild for any landcruiser you plan on buying. It may not be immediate but most are high mileage motors that are past their prime.
 
Rod bearing isn't a tick it's a knock. Valvetrains tick. Get an engine stethoscope or piece of wood and try to isolate where the sound is coming from. Bottom end - possible bearing, valve cover probably a valve/lifter issue.
 
Ditto all above.

As it sits now IMHO you need to look at it as needing a complete engine rebuild on top of anything else it will need at 320,000 miles.

Personally I wouldn't pay more than $1500-2000 for it assuming no rust or body damage. IMHO you need to assume it needs a new engine with all new accessories ($10,000+), hoses, cables, cooling system (radiator etc, $1000+), front axle service with hard parts (1500-$2000+), rear axle service ($1000+). Costs will vary depending if you do the work or if you have to pay someone to do it all.

Or to put it all together, expect to spend $15,000-20,000 to get it into reliable shape.

Don't fall into the trap of wishing it's something simple, it very likely is not. We've all made that mistake at one point or another and it will bite you in the arse (and empty your bank account).
 
Ditto all above.

As it sits now IMHO you need to look at it as needing a complete engine rebuild on top of anything else it will need at 320,000 miles.

Personally I wouldn't pay more than $1500-2000 for it assuming no rust or body damage. IMHO you need to assume it needs a new engine with all new accessories ($10,000+), hoses, cables, cooling system (radiator etc, $1000+), front axle service with hard parts (1500-$2000+), rear axle service ($1000+). Costs will vary depending if you do the work or if you have to pay someone to do it all.

Or to put it all together, expect to spend $15,000-20,000 to get it into reliable shape.

Don't fall into the trap of wishing it's something simple, it very likely is not. We've all made that mistake at one point or another and it will bite you in the arse (and empty your bank account).
Great information thank you
 

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