FZJ80 rear heater hoses (1 Viewer)

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New Idria 95043
Hello
I have a 97 fzj80 with rear heater , I’m about to replace the hoses under the body but want to make sure I have the correct hoses before removing the old hoses. I measured the 2 metal tubes coming down from the firewall and into the rear heater (near the cats) I measured near the fire wall under the truck and the metal tubes are approximately 14.58 mm.

Does anyone know what’s the proper size rubber tubing is (section above the cats) ?

There’s only one section of rubber heater tubing under the truck correct (above the cats) ?

I already have the Toyota heater control and rubber replacement hoses that connect to the coolant system. I’m opting not to bypass the rear.

Thanks
 
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I believe rear heater hoses will work with 1/2" ID. Most other larger hoses are basically 5/8" ID. If you want to bypass rear heater, best way I know is to use 87245-60420 from heater valve to core and a strip of 5/8 as a return line from heater to metal line above the exhaust.
 
Seeing 1/2" reported from searching

 
Seeing 1/2" reported from searching

Seems like it will be oversized by about 0.070
 
Strange my 97 only has the soft lines above the cats going up to connect to the rear heater core.

6F589B5C-E729-496B-A0AE-AA23CE4E724B.jpeg


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You have to remove the heat shields to see the pipes. IME the pipes leak due to corrosion (from the outside) long before the hoses leak. FWIW

Land Cruiser heater hose diagram.jpg
 
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I replaced them once, that job sucked so bad I deleted the rear heater.

There are actually 4 lines hoses in the rear.

The top yellow ones split on either side of the head, then two in the middle re above the cats and the bottom yellow are above the TC.

57-1638_graph-1200x800.jpg
 
I replaced them once, that job sucked so bad I deleted the rear heater.

There are actually 4 lines hoses in the rear.

The top yellow ones split on either side of the head, then two in the middle re above the cats and the bottom yellow are above the TC.

57-1638_graph-1200x800.jpg
I do have the bypass options if things get to PIA guess I need to crawl under there some more and look above the TC
 
Are there any leaks now? If not IMO I wouldn't mess with the hoses but it might be worthwhile to inspect the pipes as those can corrode from the outside causing leaks. Only way to know is to remove the heat shields and take a look.

The heat shields are held on by a few ?10mm nuts; all can be reached without
disturbing the exhaust or cats.
 
I used 16ft worth of 1/2" heater hose to bypass the hard lines while keeping the rear heater. Didn't want to deal with replacing the hardlines so just ran soft lines on a new route for the whole thing.
 
Are there any leaks now? If not IMO I wouldn't mess with the hoses but it might be worthwhile to inspect the pipes as those can corrode from the outside causing leaks. Only way to know is to remove the heat shields and take a look.

The heat shields are held on by a few ?10mm nuts; all can be reached without
disturbing the exhaust or cats.
Hard lines look good, Nice dry California truck. No leaks just a preemptive strike. Ill be pulling the shields and starting the job when the rain lets up (maybe CA isn't so dry) I mainly wanted to verify the hose is 14mm so I could try to order some of the internet (non silicone) yea 1/2 works they say..... but I dunno know
 
I used 16ft worth of 1/2" heater hose to bypass the hard lines while keeping the rear heater. Didn't want to deal with replacing the hardlines so just ran soft lines on a new route for the whole thing.
Your hard lines were rusted out in the Bay Area? Was the rust from bad coolant or was the truck not from the bay area? Betty was a Capital Toyota purchase back in 97 purchased by the PO (old neighbor of mine) Why did you decide to keep the rear heater for this perfect Bay Area weather?
 
Hard lines look good, Nice dry California truck. No leaks just a preemptive strike. Ill be pulling the shields and starting the job when the rain lets up (maybe CA isn't so dry) I mainly wanted to verify the hose is 14mm so I could try to order some of the internet (non silicone) yea 1/2 works they say..... but I dunno know
The hoses under the truck that connect to the heater hard lines will require 1/2" hoses and they are a TIGHT fit. You'll need to smear antifreeze inside them and on the tube before you shove them on.

You can replace the entire hard /soft lines on the LOWER section to the rear heater without removing the exhaust. I replaced mine because of rust, but you cannot replace the upper hard lines due to the transmission.

Replacing the two hoses on the side of the transmission will be a VERY difficult job. I highly recommend getting the Toyota spring clamp clamps rather than screw type hose clamps that fit the proper OD of your hose.

I replaced all of my heater hoses and lower hard lines. I ended up having to buy cheap O'Reilly's hoses and go soft line from the top down to the lower hard lines. It's a tight fit with complete soft lines but they can get there.
 

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