Builds 1994 BUILD OUT and LS swap! Let's Go! (1 Viewer)

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I have it, its just not mounted in that photo. I had to hunt around for the right 3 bolts to mount the power steering pump. I must've used them to mock up the a/c bracket. Its sorted out now. Trying to go through the post on cold hose to get the correct fittings. Waiting till I get the front end put back on to see how it'll connect to the condenser.
 
Got my wiring supplies in! Don’t use the Amazon stuff. The right way doesn't cost much.

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Tough to say, my work can be all over the place. It’ll be done this summer for sure, maybe May June timeframe. Ya know how it goes, kids, wife, house, work, Land Cruiser. How come I’m the only one who thinks it’s important!

Honestly don’t have much to go. I’ve got to get new springs for a 3 inch lift, then get the drive shafts measured and adjusted in town.

Big things left-
Trans cable - going with the trail blazer cable method.
Wire in Dakota digital trans posting sensor. Location TBD. Probably going to try and keep in the shifter housing in the cab.
Got re-do the heater hoses.

Got to get a mount location for my fuse box and GM pcm, this is a non-emissions build so my charcoal canister is gone, so probably in that area.
 
For my fuel pump I tried to stay as factory as possible. Plan on using the stock pump till it quits, then replace. Stock pump has plenty of flow for my HP level. Used stock wiring and controls. I bypassed the cut out relay and resistor, so the pump just runs at full power all the time. Which the Toyota pump slowed down at idle I believe. So not a big change. I then bypassed the fuel pump relay. I am utilizing the stock EFI relay for control, which all the current for the fuel pump went through anyway. I did this by splicing the yellow/red wire with the red/black wire out of the fuel pump relay. All of these wires are right at the fuel pump relay and fuse box on the drivers side engine bay. Very easy. Then using the GM pcm fuel pump out signal to the Toyota EFI relay for control.

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Please poke holes in my plan if anyone sees anything wrong or a better way. I’ll add a breaker to the bus bar maybe, but it may just be battery hot. Not sure. There are a lot of bus bars in cars that battery hot. Not sure it’s needed.
 
Went to replace the heater hoses on the firewall. Should’ve mess with them before I put the motor in. But it’s still real easy. Used a dremel to cut off the old Toyota clamps.
 
I was messing with my front clip trying to size the old Toyota trans cooler lines. I bought -6 AN fitting to come off the 4L80 trans. Wanted to make sure that wasn’t undersized. They were 3/8 ID which is -6.

While I was looking at the cooling stack, the a/c condenser seems wobbly. It is only mounted on the bottom. Very unsecured for off road bumpy roads. Now I bought this truck and started to take it apart so I don’t know if this is how 80’s are or what. Seems like there is a mount that’s not being used. Is this an aftermarket part. But the a/c hard lines look right?

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I was messing with my front clip trying to size the old Toyota trans cooler lines. I bought -6 AN fitting to come off the 4L80 trans. Wanted to make sure that wasn’t undersized. They were 3/8 ID which is -6.

While I was looking at the cooling stack, the a/c condenser seems wobbly. It is only mounted on the bottom. Very unsecured for off road bumpy roads. Now I bought this truck and started to take it apart so I don’t know if this is how 80’s are or what. Seems like there is a mount that’s not being used. Is this an aftermarket part. But the a/c hard lines look right?

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Your missing the condenser mount bushings and bolts.
 
if anyone can snap a pic of their ac condenser I'd appreciate it. Looking at some parts breakdowns, looks like I might be missing several pieces maybe.
 
yeah man! I'll most likely just figure something out on my own, highly doubt I'll find them from Toyota.
Reach out to @slow95z He will most likely have the missing parts that you need ;)
 

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