First FJ40 Buy Advice (2 Viewers)

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Feb 18, 2023
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Howdy, first post! I’m mostly looking for advice. I’m interested in buying my first FJ40. It’ll be in the mid $20K range. As far as I can tell, it’s a 1976 model (late 75 production) US spec model given that the VIN on the frame, door, and engine match the vin decoder I’ve seen here.

I would’ve preferred an FJ40 that had never been repainted and had not been sprayed with bed liner underneath, but after almost 50 years it’s hard to find something like that without breaking the bank. Nothing seemed concerning on the frame as far as I could tell.

The odometer has rolled over and at one point wasn’t working, but the current owner replaced it and is now functional. The engine sounded fine and the gears shifted without concern. My only concern was an oil leak but the owner messaged me after my test drive to say he took it into the shop. Apparently, there was a plug in a venting tube that caused pressure in the valve cover and thus, oil to leak. They now rectified it and now there is no leak. The owner said I’m welcome to take it to a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection.

The current owner doesn’t have much history on the vehicle, other that he bought it in Minneapolis from a gentleman that was restoring several FJ40s.

I’m looking for an FJ40 that I can enjoy driving often. I’m not looking for a totally original museum piece, just an opportunity to enjoy the fun spirit of the early Land Cruiser. The first FJ40 I buy will probably be the only one I buy.

What do y’all think? Is there something I’m missing or not considering? Thanks for your advice!

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I’d be afraid of rust under that paint. Some of the panels also aren’t straight, and there are way better trucks you can buy for 20k. Looks like a pig with lipstick
 
It is a nice looking cruiser … there are issues … usually a lot more unseen then

The rear sill replacement could have been much better … or the side corners were skinned over … either way it’s suspect

The rear body mounts are missing on the rear corners above the tail lights

There is extra rear bracing in the wheel wells

I do not see a pcv hose going to the base of the carb nor do I see the valve cover venting to the weber air cleaner

Once the seals have been compromised there is a chance it will most likely still leak … just not as much

But… your crankcase ventilation system is not functioning correctly … what did they do exactly to correct the leak?

The engine shot after they fixed it?

The missing spare carrier is also suspect because it’s missing mounting holes on lower spot … so down there was ‘fixed’ but why not put the carrier back in? Unless they do not think the repair can handle the weight?

Just thinking out loud
 
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It is a nice looking cruiser … there are issues … usually a lot more unseen then

The rear sill replacement could have been much better … or the side corners were skinned over … either way it’s suspect

The rear body mounts are missing on the rear corners above the tail lights

There is extra rear bracing in the wheel wells

I do not see a pcv hose going to the base of the carb nor do I see the valve cover venting to the weber air cleaner

Once the seals have been compromised there is a chance it will most likely still leak … just not as much

But… your crankcase ventilation system is not functioning correctly … what did they do exactly to correct the leak?

The engine shot after they fixed it?
Wow, I honestly appreciate how quickly everyone has responded and for catching things I would’ve never noticed.

Apparently they simply removed the misplaced plug. I have no idea how long it was in that condition. I drive it for about 35 minutes and there was a lot of oil leaking down the right side of the engine near the rear
 
It is a nice looking cruiser … there are issues … usually a lot more unseen then

The rear sill replacement could have been much better … or the side corners were skinned over … either way it’s suspect

The rear body mounts are missing on the rear corners above the tail lights

There is extra rear bracing in the wheel wells

I do not see a pcv hose going to the base of the carb nor do I see the valve cover venting to the weber air cleaner

Once the seals have been compromised there is a chance it will most likely still leak … just not as much

But… your crankcase ventilation system is not functioning correctly … what did they do exactly to correct the leak?

The engine shot after they fixed it?

The missing spare carrier is also suspect because it’s missing mounting holes on lower spot … so down there was ‘fixed’ but why not put the carrier back in? Unless they do not think the repair can handle the weight?

Just thinking out loud
As for the carrier, he has it but he said he didn’t have the rubber seals to mount it to avoid metal-on-metal contact.
 
This picture is before the fix


I am concerned that they just plugged it

It was spraying out oil because there’s most likely a lot of back pressure because I don’t see a pcv hose going to the base of the carb

Is there no pcv?

I’d check out that stuff more … if it’s masking a bigger issue like blowby

Have it compression checked

Is it close to you?
 
I am concerned that they just plugged it

It was spraying out oil because there’s most likely a lot of back pressure because I don’t see a pcv hose going to the base of the carb

Is there no pcv?

I’d check out that stuff more … if it’s masking a bigger issue like blowby

Have it compression checked

Is it close to you?
Yes, we’re in the same city which is nice, but now I’m getting the feeling maybe there are too many unknowns with this vehicle
 
At 20k, there’s always gonna be stuff wrong, but it’s better for things to be more clear and easy to identify. I’d stay away from new paint in general. New paint always makes me nervous.
 
I just noticed that the pcv is on the rear end of the side cover … so it is there

You would need a hose from valve cover to an elbow off the weber air cleaner base

So then the system would work correctly

Do check the compression anyway … that will tell you condition of the engine
 

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