1FZ-FE Stroker Build (5.5L - 102mm Bore - 115mm Stroke) (1 Viewer)

[ToyotaIsLife]

UPDATE (February 5, 2023) Work Blog Only, Results Later:

NOTE: Electrical system overhaul, no mechanical changes as of yet, only electrical work.

OEM Engine Harness Delete:

OEM Engine harness and sensors delete, new sensors installed replacing the original ones, these newer sensors offer an advantage in this application since they are provided directly by Emtron and have preset calibrations (Voltage -> Reading Output) in the ECU software. Additionally, along with those more accurate readings, they offer significantly faster response times, especially the MAP Sensor.

1. OEM Engine temp sensor (although the new sensor still retains the same location)

2. OEM Inlet air temp sensor (previously located right after the stock airbox in stock form, was canceled with the new intake setup, which meant the ECU had no idea of what the charge temp was, meant less accurate control over the fueling)

3. OEM Map sensor (although the new sensor still retains the same location)

4. Crank and Cam sensors remain the same, however with the new wiring setup they are now individually wired, so the configuration has changed. This required a major change in the ref sync settings in the ECU to get the timing working properly and accurately, will explain in more detail later.

New Custom Harness:

Completely new wiring harness built from scratch, using the flying harness provided by Emtron as a base. (SL Series AB Flying Harness - Emtron - https://emtron.world/product/sl-series-ab-flying-harness/).

This choice was a bit intimidating at first since I would have to rely on my own research and learning to make it work, no other workshop is familiar with the Emtron ECU platform here, at least not that I know of I asked around a lot. However, luckily the Emtrom documentation and customer support is on point and the same wiring principles of other standalone ECU's were applicable here. Worked with a well-known MOTEC electrician to get it setup properly.

New Sensors:
Along with the new the new wiring harness these new sensors were installed.

1. 4 Bar Emtron Map Sensor (Emtron 4.0 Bar MAP Sensor Kit - Emtron - https://emtron.world/product/emtron-4bar-map-sensor-kit/)

2. BOSCH Water Temp Sensor (BOSCH Water Temp Sensor and Plug - Emtron - https://emtron.world/product/bosch-water-temp/)

3. DELCO Air Temp Sensor (DELCO AIR TEMP Sensor and Plug - Emtron - https://emtron.world/product/delco-air-temp/)

Accessories:
Thought this would be a good opportunity to include some dial that would allow me to have immediate control over anything in the ECU in realtime without the laptop, so I got the 10 position rotary switch, also conveniently provided by Emtron (10 Position Rotary Switch - Small Knob - Emtron - https://emtron.world/product/10-position-rotary-switch-small-knob/).

The great thing is, I can use this knob to control anything I want in the ECU. For example I could have separate fuel table and ignition tables, for when I decide to run higher octane fuel (race gas like C16/Q16). A fuel table for race gas would target a leaner mixture (would be safe to go leaner at WOT with race gas since the higher octane resists detonation), and along with that leaner target mixture I could have a separate ignition table with higher ignition advance values provided the engine is currently knock limited (need to verify this when I get my knock detection equipment, don't want to advance it any further blind).

Main Advantages:

The two main advantages of this new wiring setup is fully sequential 6 channel injection (one injector per cylinder) and direct fire 6 channel ignition (one coil per cylinder).

Previously it was running 3 channel non-sequential grouped injection and 3 channel wasted spark ignition.

The other nice advantages are more accurate readings provided by the sensors, and faster response times for things like acceleration enrichment (improved throttle response, etc).

All these should go hand in hand to provide a better performing engine via improved control.

Conclusion:

I spent the last two nights trying to get it started with the new electrical setup, and I finally did. At first it would not start at all since I did not realize that the electrician already wired the ignition and injection inputs to the ECU by the firing order of the engine, I initially thought he wired it as 1-2-3-4-5-6. This was an issue since I already have the firing order set up in the ECU, after a lot of diagnosis I finally realized that both injection and ignition were wired by the electrian via the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, so I changed the firing order in the ECU to 1-2-3-4-5-6 and it fired right up!

Another thing that changed significantly that gave me some head ache was the crank index offset. The original setup before this new electrical work had the crank index offset at 60 degrees for 1-1 timing between the ECU and the timing light, with this new setup it wanted 422 degrees in the crank index offset for accurate timing.


ECU Setup Screenshots (Before & After):

Before:

The crank index offset changed to 422 for accurate ignition timing (cant upload a fifth image which is why I am stating it here)

After:

I will test, tune, provide first impressions and the results later.

Thank you.

 

[Saito]

No more MAF sensor then ? I’d love to see some pics of the engine bay. Do you have individual coils on top of the valve cover ? Or are they bunched up where the distributor normally is like the non US spec coil packed 1FZs ? This is cool man. Good job

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

No more MAF sensor then ? I’d love to see some pics of the engine bay. Do you have individual coils on top of the valve cover ? Or are they bunched up where the distributor normally is like the non US spec coil packed 1FZs ? This is cool man. Good job

As I mentioned this is a Gen 2 1FZ-FE, it never had a MAF sensor to begin with. In stock OEM form it came with a MAP sensor on the intake manifold as opposed to a MAF sensor on the airbox like the Gen 1 1FZ-FE that comes in the 80 series.

and yes I am running individual coils, one per cylinder, Toyota 5.7 3UR-FE coils to be specific. Also as mentioned, initially I was not taking advantage of the individual coils since I was using the OEM engine harness, which meant I was still running the coils as Wasted Spark, but now with the new electrical work and harness I am running them fully individually as Direct Fire.

Here are some shots of the engine bay, I should have uploaded some earlier, forgot.

 

[cody c]

Amongst all the other cool things, I like the exhaust shroud, good idea, well executed.

Any thoughts on one of those exhaust cutout solenoid kits? Was watching some motortrend or similar programs where they got a significant power increase on the dyno with one.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Amongst all the other cool things, I like the exhaust shroud, good idea, well executed.

Any thoughts on one of those exhaust cutout solenoid kits? Was watching some motortrend or similar programs where they got a significant power increase on the dyno with one.

Oh yes I am well aware of those cut out kits, if installed before the mid muffler with the cut out on it’s basically running open headers.

And I know that open headers have quite a substantial increase in power since I have had multiple 1FZ-FE builds in the past that have gained up to 25whp after the exhaust pipe was disconnected (open headers, with a collector extension).

However open headers whether through a cut out or simply just no exhaust would be too loud and burly, would be abnoxious even for short runs in my opinion. Maybe for a drag race application or if I were to frequently race.

Even with this build right now the difference between the muffler closed and open (since I am running an electronically valved muffler) is absolutely noticeable, not Dyno numbers I’m talking seat of the pants noticeable, way less powerful with the muffler closed. I imagine back pressure issues are exacerbated even further due to the higher displacement of this build as well. Let us not forget my target RPMs as well I want this build to keep making power at high rpm’s with the new larger camshaft (longer duration, more lift, much tighter LSA). Higher RPMs also require larger piping, another factor.

Along with the new camshafts that I ordered, the new larger intake manifold and throttle body I also plan on ordering a custom set of 6-1 headers from American Racing Headers.

The largest header they offer currently for this engine is one with 1 3/4 primaries and a 3 inch collector.

I emailed them recently about ordering one with 2 inch primaries and a 4 inch collector.

Plan on running that header on 4 inch exhaust pipes as opposed to the 3.5 inch that I am running right now.

Excited to see where this build takes me, more more more!

 

[cody c]

............

Plan on running that header on 4 inch exhaust pipes as opposed to the 3.5 inch that I am running right now.

Excited to see where this build takes me, more more more!

Nice! I did manage to shoe horn 4" through on mine (no body lift), the tightest spot was over the frame rail and next to the t-case, but it was doable.

Used motorcycle type (springs and loops on side) so I could split it in two (where finger is pointing) without a flange on top. And then did v-groove flange connections and supported the c-clamps where possible instead of the pipe for easy removal/installation. It was the only way I could get it through there. I also did wrap the pipe with high temp insulation there to prevent heat soak into floor and t-case, and I did wrap the fuel/coolant lines to protect them.

(post #128 page 7 on my build thread) and did a cutout through the rear quarter to keep it high and protected (page 5 post #87 & 90) if your looking for solutions

 

[FMC80]

This is freaking amazing. All of this. Everything. The sound is unbelievable. I bet it’s a blast to drive.

 

[hazard]

Very interesting. I am doing something very similar with a 114 mm crank. But I am a very slow builder have been at it for two years or more.
wondering how you stuffed the crank and rods in block without major grinding as I had to actually grind holes in the block to make them fit. Can you show bottom end build pics?
with that stroke did the piston pins have to intersect the oil ring lands? What compression height stack on the pistons? Stock rod length ?
can you tell me. Did you use much smaller rod journals on the crank, (as Scotty suggested I do but alas too late), and if so how small? And if not how? Please fill me in, as I plan to do another. Would also love to hear how someone stuffed a 124mm in.
Also wondering where you got heads cnc ported. Very few of the mods and parts you are using are available here in N America, and I am envious!
please answer and keep us posted regularly!
here is a pic of my block grinding to clear rods which are slightly smaller than stock but stock journals, notice the hole which is one of the smaller ones,

and the piston I am using.

 

[hazard]

Very interesting. I am doing something very similar with a 114 mm crank. But I am a very slow builder have been at it for two years or more.
wondering how you stuffed the crank and rods in block without major grinding as I had to actually grind holes in the block to make them fit. Can you show bottom end build pics?
with that stroke did the piston pins have to intersect the oil ring lands? What compression height stack on the pistons? Stock rod length ?
can you tell me. Did you use much smaller rod journals on the crank, (as Scotty suggested I do but alas too late), and if so how small? And if not how? Please fill me in, as I plan to do another. Would also love to hear how someone stuffed a 124mm in.
Also wondering where you got heads cnc ported. Very few of the mods and parts you are using are available here in N America, and I am envious!
please answer and keep us posted regularly!
here is a pic of my block grinding to clear rods which are slightly smaller than stock but stock journals, notice the hole which is one of the smaller ones, View attachment 3246339View attachment 3246341and the piston I am using.

Any concerns with rod/stroke ratio? That was one of my main concerns, especially as you are planning higher revs?

 

[hazard]

What is your final compression ratio both static and dynamic? What fuel are you using?
Thanks for the great build!

 

[hazard]

Sorry for all the questions.
Where is Precision engineering, your crankshaft made? Can't find them.

 

[gonzopancho]

no, the mechanic told me that 115m is about the limit before cutting and trimming would need to be done. The biggest crank fitted on a 1FZ at the garage I worked with was 124mm.

He claims anything larger than 115m would be too much of a headache to get running properly.

Also worth noting that this stroker kit came as a package, swapping rods and pistons would not be possible unless they are identical in terms of dimensions. Which is why I am ordering spare pistons for when I inevitably burn the current set after a good amount of abuse.

@FJ60Cam was clearancing my 108mm stroke 1fz-fw, but maybe my rods are bigger.

So I’ll only have 5.2L.

 

[gonzopancho]

That engine (101mm bore, 108mm stroke, 10:1 +1.5mm valves, titanium retainers, US intake& head, larger injectors, stage 2 cams, coilpack ignition, Halltech ECU) goes in the 66 FJ45LV.

When it’s complete, (@samc2447 is doing the work) I’ll drive it back to Memphis and put it on the same chassis dyno where @FJ60Cam has dynoed other trucks.

When I get the 105-series supercharged 1fz-fe powered 1972 fj40 back, I’ll drop through Memphis with it and dyno it.

I figure that can be used for a decent baseline.

Cam has another 105 series 1fz-fe of mine and I have another TRD supercharger. That’s probably another 5.2L build; but lower compression for the SC. It goes in the stretched 1963 fj40, but that project is behind a lot of other stuff.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

@HazzarD

Any concerns with rod/stroke ratio? That was one of my main concerns, especially as you are planning higher revs?

Please take all this information with a grain of salt since I am still new in this field.

I will have to confirm the rod length of my connecting rods to determine the ratio first, Ill need some time to go to the workshop to get the measurements. The concept of ROD ratio is new to me so thank you for brining that to my attention. Also, I understand that the higher the stroke the higher the piston shaft speeds at a given RPM, reducing the maximum potential RPM, which is why some people 'destroke' their engines for higher RPM.

I am sure a lot of strain will be placed on the rotating components as I go higher and higher with RPM,. However, I am not sure what the breaking point is, we will know for sure once I start bumping up those RPM limits with new camshafts, intake setups, etc. Is there a formula to calculate this? Not the engine powerband but, the threshold at which the rotating parts start to give up.

What is your final compression ratio both static and dynamic? What fuel are you using?
Thanks for the great build!

I have no idea what the static compression ratio is (domed pistons, but no compression number on the box), what I do know is that it is higher than stock. I doubt it is greater than 11:0:1.

I wouldn't think this is a reliable way of calculating the static ratio but, if we take the rule that the cranking PSI should be 17-20 times greater than the static ratio and the current cranking PSI is 220 then we land on this range (11:0:1 -> 12:0:9) *UNVALIDATED*

If we take that same rule and apply it to a stock gen 2 1FZ-FE with an advertised static compression ratio of 9:0:1 it does work. A freshly built bone stock gen 2 1FZ-FE has a 180 cranking PSI, you divide 180 by 20 and you get 9. Works out.

In terms of dynamic compression, no idea, however I do know that it is dependent on the camshaft and how much overlap the camshaft has. In this case, my dynamic compression ratio will be greatly increased with the new camshaft that is arriving soon. 106 (105.5 to be precise) Lobe separation angle as opposed to the current 114 LSA, so a good increase in overlap, not to mention the additional increased overlap from the longer duration. I hope the idle with the new cam is so choppy that: brake booster stops functioning at idle due to no vacuum, that the only way to keep it alive during idle is with a rich AFR (causing the spark plugs to foul quickly) and high RPM, the motor mounts suffer premature wear from the excessive vibration, all these cons for the chop!

The fuel I am using is pump 95 octane.

Sorry for all the questions.
Where is Precision engineering, your crankshaft made? Can't find them.

No worries, keep on asking, it helps me learn as well.

I cant find them either, everything is so custom and localized here that it is sometimes impossible to find online catalogs of these parts with some of the companies. Ill confirm if the company name is actually "Precision Engineering".

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

That engine (101mm bore, 108mm stroke, 10:1 +1.5mm valves, titanium retainers, US intake& head, larger injectors, stage 2 cams, coilpack ignition, Halltech ECU) goes in the 66 FJ45LV.

When it’s complete, (@samc2447 is doing the work) I’ll drive it back to Memphis and put it on the same chassis dyno where @FJ60Cam has dynoed other trucks.

When I get the 105-series supercharged 1fz-fe powered 1972 fj40 back, I’ll drop through Memphis with it and dyno it.

I figure that can be used for a decent baseline.

Cam has another 105 series 1fz-fe of mine and I have another TRD supercharger. That’s probably another 5.2L build; but lower compression for the SC. It goes in the stretched 1963 fj40, but that project is behind a lot of other stuff.

View attachment 3246938

View attachment 3246939

View attachment 3246940

Excellent!, we will have to take the big mud terrain tires and steel wheels into consideration when you dyno your vehicle.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Sorry for all the questions.
Where is Precision engineering, your crankshaft made? Can't find them.

Australia??

Precision International is an Aussie based company that manufactures performance & replacement engine parts.

Not sure if that's the source here

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

Australia??

Precision International is an Aussie based company that manufactures performance & replacement engine parts.

Not sure if that's the source here

Could very well be Australia, Ill know for sure the next time I visit the workshop.

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

New camshafts just arrived from all the way from New Zealand!

106 LSA, this thing better have an aggressive idle.

Gonna take it to the workshop now to get it installed.

I am expecting this cam to give a good increase in mid range torque, and hopefully the longer duration will hold the power higher up in the rev range. Should be done within 48 hours. Spec sheet below in case anyone is interested.

 

[hazard]

@HazzarD


Please take all this information with a grain of salt since I am still new in this field.

I will have to confirm the rod length of my connecting rods to determine the ratio first, Ill need some time to go to the workshop to get the measurements. The concept of ROD ratio is new to me so thank you for brining that to my attention. Also, I understand that the higher the stroke the higher the piston shaft speeds at a given RPM, reducing the maximum potential RPM, which is why some people 'destroke' their engines for higher RPM.

I am sure a lot of strain will be placed on the rotating components as I go higher and higher with RPM,. However, I am not sure what the breaking point is, we will know for sure once I start bumping up those RPM limits with new camshafts, intake setups, etc. Is there a formula to calculate this? Not the engine powerband but, the threshold at which the rotating parts start to give up.

I have no idea what the static compression ratio is (domed pistons, but no compression number on the box), what I do know is that it is higher than stock. I doubt it is greater than 11:0:1.

I wouldn't think this is a reliable way of calculating the static ratio but, if we take the rule that the cranking PSI should be 17-20 times greater than the static ratio and the current cranking PSI is 220 then we land on this range (11:0:1 -> 12:0:9) *UNVALIDATED*

If we take that same rule and apply it to a stock gen 2 1FZ-FE with an advertised static compression ratio of 9:0:1 it does work. A freshly built bone stock gen 2 1FZ-FE has a 180 cranking PSI, you divide 180 by 20 and you get 9. Works out.

In terms of dynamic compression, no idea, however I do know that it is dependent on the camshaft and how much overlap the camshaft has. In this case, my dynamic compression ratio will be greatly increased with the new camshaft that is arriving soon. 106 (105.5 to be precise) Lobe separation angle as opposed to the current 114 LSA, so a good increase in overlap, not to mention the additional increased overlap from the longer duration. I hope the idle with the new cam is so choppy that: brake booster stops functioning at idle due to no vacuum, that the only way to keep it alive during idle is with a rich AFR (causing the spark plugs to foul quickly) and high RPM, the motor mounts suffer premature wear from the excessive vibration, all these cons for the chop!

The fuel I am using is pump 95 octane.



No worries, keep on asking, it helps me learn as well.

I cant find them either, everything is so custom and localized here that it is sometimes impossible to find online catalogs of these parts with some of the companies. Ill confirm if the company name is actually "Precision Engineering".

There are easy to find formulas on Google for all these items.
Thanks I have never heard of the cranking pressures being converted to compression ratios but this would definitely be the "dynamic" ratio, as dynamic takes into account camshaft timing. Your build will actually have a lower dynamic ratio due to the large cam, not larger.
keep us up to date.
cheers

 

[ToyotaIsLife]

There are easy to find formulas on Google for all these items.
Thanks I have never heard of the cranking pressures being converted to compression ratios but this would definitely be the "dynamic" ratio, as dynamic takes into account camshaft timing. Your build will actually have a lower dynamic ratio due to the large cam, not larger.
keep us up to date.
cheers

Take a look at this article covering camshaft LSA: Camshaft Shootout: Lobe-Separation Angle Tested and Explained - https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/camshaft-shootout-lobe-separation-angle-tested-explained/

As per the article, the tighter/narrower the LSA the higher the cranking compression. Originally mistook that for higher dynamic compression as well.

Your right, the other article (Dynamic Compression - Hot Rod Magazine - https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-0706-pitstop-compression/): claims that the later the intake valve closes the lower the dynamic compression ratio, meaning longer intake durations (bigger camshaft) lowers dynamic compression. Assuming the article is accurate, we now understand that a camshaft with a longer intake duration lowers the dynamic compression ratio however, I still do not know if a tighter lobe separation angle increases or reduces the dynamic compression ratio.

I speculate that the tighter the LSA the larger the dynamic compression ratio, since tighter LSA's produce more grunt down low and in the mid range unlike the effect of added intake duration which shifts the power band up. Ill have to read more to find out.