Who makes good metal-cutting bandsaw blades (1 Viewer)

[RockDoc]

Who makes a good blade for a portaband? I've used Lenox which liked to crack and break at the weld, and Princess Auto ones (think Canadian Harbor Freight, convenient, but questionable quality) which seem to dull in no time at all. I see DeWalt and Milwaukee listed on the home store sites, Starrett and MK Morse listed on Roark Supply's site as US made.

Any tips for getting the most out of a blade? I mostly cut 1/8" - 1/4" wall mild steel tube, occasional flat bar or rod that's thicker. I'm thinking I want 10/14 tpi and wavy tooth pattern?

 

[PAToyota]

I've typically used Lenox or Starrett and gotten good life out of either. It's been awhile since I stocked up, so maybe Lenox has gone downhill in quality?

The 10/14 tpi is about right for what you're doing. Do you lubricate the blade at all? If your bandsaw doesn't have liquid coolant, I typically use one of the waxy lubricant sticks and just swipe the blade with it before cutting.

 

[e9999]

My portaband use has been so little that I can't offer much there, but one thought came to mind: I've been quite impressed with Diablo circular blades for metal. Maybe look and see if they make suitable saw bands too?

While we're on the topic and given PAToy's suggestion: anybody knows if some solid lubricant would make derailing off the Portaband wheels worse or not?

 

[RockDoc]

I've typically used Lenox or Starrett and gotten good life out of either. It's been awhile since I stocked up, so maybe Lenox has gone downhill in quality?

The 10/14 tpi is about right for what you're doing. Do you lubricate the blade at all? If your bandsaw doesn't have liquid coolant, I typically use one of the waxy lubricant sticks and just swipe the blade with it before cutting.

I was pretty sure it was a few Lenox that have snapped on me, but I'm not certain. My use of the saw is irregular and I'm thinking back over the last few years. I'll do a bit of searching and see where the Lenox are made. They were the one recognizable brand that popped up on Amazon and the listing I looked at stated they're made in China.

I should try to use lube more regularly, with the portaband I'll give a shot of WD40 on a longer cut, but quick cuts I tend to do dry. I've got cutting oil and a stick of lube, so no excuses.

*edit* Looking at the Lenox site I see 'wolf-band' and 'master-band' lines of band blades. Wolf-band (which I think mine were) is maybe a budget line?

 

[RockDoc]

I've been quite impressed with Diablo circular blades for metal. Maybe look and see if they make suitable saw bands too?

I'm only seeing circular blades on their site.

 

[PAToyota]

I do see that Lenox "joined" Stanley Black & Decker in 2017 and my stash of blades predated that, so I can't say what their current quality is.

They also have a number of lines of blades for both wood and metal cutting: ALL Band Saw Blades | LENOX Tools - https://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/AllProducts_category_band_saw_blades.aspx

I'd have to check to see what "flavor" I have. I picked mine up from the local MSC warehouse when they were having a sale, so I stocked up.

 

[RockDoc]

I've tossed some Starrett in my Amazon cart for the next order I put in. Something like $13 US a pop vs. $40ish for Lenox Master-Band I was seeing.

 

[RockDoc]

Noticed a couple of the snapped blades in my scrap barrel and pulled them out. I was wrong when I said they snapped at the weld. Looks like the developed multiple cracks, coincident with the wave of the teeth and snapped at one of them.

 

[PIP]

We run 11' and 14' blades in 1" and 1-1/4" in our manual saw and our CNC miter cutting Cosen. I used Lennox variable pitch bimetal blades for years. Over a decade without any problems.

2021 we started having all kinds of bandsaw troubles. I actually thought it was guides at first and rebuilt all the guides including carbides in my saws. It took a long time because of supply chain crap to get all the parts, but when I finally did, there was no change. Bought different brands and the saws cut great again. The thing that really burned me about Lennox is that they took almost a year to issue an RMA and accept the return. My tooling supplier refunded all the blades after a few months, but it took Lennox a year to take responsibility for it, basically to respond at all.

Now if I knew that my large company was putting out trash blades I would get to work immediately and work as hard as I could to sort it out.

I switched brands to Sigmund and Wikus. Wikus is very good and the price is almost too good, half of Lennox.

 

[RockDoc]

...... I switched brands to Sigmund and Wikus. Wikus is very good and the price is almost too good, half of Lennox.

Looks like the Wikus site has lots of good technical info. Bookmarked that to have a look at when I've got downtime to fill at work.

Do you mean Simonds rather than Sigmund? That's where searching for Sigmund leads for me.

I'm assuming both of these brands are marketed / distributed through suppliers to professionals rather than retail to Johnny-on-the-street types like me..??

 

[ntsqd]

I've got an almost 30 year old Rong-Fu (HF) little horiz. band saw (60-ish inch blade). Been running Lennox blades in it w/o problems and getting pretty decent life considering that I occasionally abuse them. The one thing that I've noticed, regardless of blade mfg., is that if it's cutting crooked it's the blade. Doesn't matter how new, old, expensive, or cheap. Owner of the desert race truck that I crew for called me complaining about how his much newer, same mfg saw wouldn't cut straight. I asked what blade(S) he had in it, and he was using the HF blades. Well.... He squawked about buying more expensive blades when his were still sharp, but once he made a cut with the new blade he was sold.

When I was working in a sawing shop right out of HS we bought blades for their HEM Saw. I always wondered why we didn't buy a blade welder and make our own. When I was working for another shop while in college I made a guide tool so that I could try GTAW welding together blades for their band saw. It worked fairly well, but I did need to work out how to anneal the welds or they'd crack about the third trip around a wheel.