Any resources for easily replacing all of the brake lines on a 75 FJ 40? MAF, SOR, CCOT do not seem to have these.
replacement brake lines? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cuerno Largo
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Go with stainless from http://www.inlinetube.com/ and never worry about it again.
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Big B. said:
How many bananas is a job like this?
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71FJ40 said:
Has anyone used inline tube? Were they worth it? I can imagine they would likely be expensive. They have only American cars on their website. Do they have the patterns for the Landcruiser?
yeah, i was wondering that too, also is the brake lines on the cruiser metric or standard?
OK, I spoke with inline tube and they said there is no such thing as metric tubing. All the tubing is the same only the fittings are different. I guess i was wrong in my thinking. They also said they dont have any patterns for the landcruisers. Just FYI.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
are the lines from NAPA steel or stainless steel? does napa sell metric fittings?
I couldn't find hardly any metric brake fittings ANyWHERE napa included. they are generally my first stop. I was lucky and got a set of SS of a local company selling old stock, i had some fitment issues at the firewall and from the lower block to the rear flex hose was 180 deg. out. All in all it was worth it. I'll never have to do it again, and if I do, I'll use dynamite on it! Yes it was a really PITA.
I think if you starting from stratch it might be easier, but here are a few tips.
pull all lines and try not to cut them as they make good patterns to use for bending the new lines. If you don't have one or the old ones bent up etc, use alumin wire or copper wire from electrical house wire for a pattern, then replicate it on your tubing.
SS is tough to bend and flare, if your hell bent on SS I might consider buying a pre-bent kit, buy the most prasied kit available as far as install, Oh and buy a new disty block on the frame, don't do what I had to and weld and retapp etc buy a new block kit if available. good luck -Junk
I think if you starting from stratch it might be easier, but here are a few tips.
pull all lines and try not to cut them as they make good patterns to use for bending the new lines. If you don't have one or the old ones bent up etc, use alumin wire or copper wire from electrical house wire for a pattern, then replicate it on your tubing.
SS is tough to bend and flare, if your hell bent on SS I might consider buying a pre-bent kit, buy the most prasied kit available as far as install, Oh and buy a new disty block on the frame, don't do what I had to and weld and retapp etc buy a new block kit if available. good luck -Junk
Coolerman
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It's maybe a 2 bannana job. The key to a good do it yourself brake line flare job is to buy or rent a QUALITY DOUBLE FLARE kit and tubing bender!
The cheap flare kits let the tube slip when flaring. I used a kit I got from Advanced Auto. It was $29.00 and worked great. They also carry several different lengths of straight brake line (up to 6') with metric fittings.
Buy the lengths you need, measure what you have to replace, select the correct length from the several you bought, then bend, cut and flare the other end. You will already have one end factory flared and you will have the metric end for the new flare. Cuts the number of flares you have to make.
Oh one more thing, PRACTISE making several flares first and compare them to the factory flares.
The cheap flare kits let the tube slip when flaring. I used a kit I got from Advanced Auto. It was $29.00 and worked great. They also carry several different lengths of straight brake line (up to 6') with metric fittings.
Buy the lengths you need, measure what you have to replace, select the correct length from the several you bought, then bend, cut and flare the other end. You will already have one end factory flared and you will have the metric end for the new flare. Cuts the number of flares you have to make.
Oh one more thing, PRACTISE making several flares first and compare them to the factory flares.
easy job and you can make them as custom and bend anyway you want them, got my hardline at checker and autozone. cheap and worked great.
I sent some old tubes from another project to inlinetube and they made templates from my old tube. Turn around was less than 10 days and the stainless is sweet
grayfj40
SILVER Star
Here is a site that sells stainless steel lines, complete pre-bent kit for cuiser's.
http://www.classictube.com/index.asp
Hope this is helpfull.
http://www.classictube.com/index.asp
Hope this is helpfull.
Thanks Mud eater!! Have you used these guys? 180 bucks might be a little steep but no one else sells them so they have the market....plus when I get ready to put them in I'm not gonna be in the mood to bend and flare my own. Thanks again.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
i should have clarified that i need lines for an FJ45LV not a 40. i think they are very similar in the front, but not to the back. I do have the line that runs to the back so i could send it for a SS template, but i am not sure how long it is and whether it will have to be bent or not. i don't like the idea of having to straighten out a bent tube just to ship it.
Here are a couple of pics of my new brake line routing that I'm currently working on. My originals were all bent out of shape from the PO that I decided to start over. My plan is to run them across the top of the firewall area, not on the firewall behind the head. I think it will work out well.
For the long runs I started with 6' lengths of store bought straight lines with metric fittings. Where I needed to connect to my new proportioning valve and residual valve, I reflared the lines with US fittings.
I'm planning on making some spreader block clamps to hold the two lines together, and provide a mounting method for under the cowling. It should work well, at least the 1st half is. I've got somewhere around 4hr invested so far. The tip provided earlier about using soft wire for the pattern is what I did. Works great!
Jeff
For the long runs I started with 6' lengths of store bought straight lines with metric fittings. Where I needed to connect to my new proportioning valve and residual valve, I reflared the lines with US fittings.
I'm planning on making some spreader block clamps to hold the two lines together, and provide a mounting method for under the cowling. It should work well, at least the 1st half is. I've got somewhere around 4hr invested so far. The tip provided earlier about using soft wire for the pattern is what I did. Works great!
Jeff
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If your rig is still set up with the original 1960s era brakes, then your lines use 9mm fittings, not 10mm like the 1971 and newer FJs. These fittings are VERY hard to find.
Sooooo, NOW would be a good time to ask yourself if you are even THINKING about upgrading your brake system in the future, and make the future NOW.
FWIW, I keep a set of replica brake lines for the front half of an early 40/45 in stock, but not the back. I have a local shop bend and flare them on a very nice flaring machine.
Best
Mark A.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
further clarification
Well i need to give more info. the drivetrain in my 45lv will be from my donar 78' fj55. it has PS. i have already upgraded the rear axle to disc brakes. i will also be swapping the firewall for a section off a 79' fj40 donar so that the steering column and PB booster will all bolt up nicely. therefore, everything should be the same as a 40, including 10mm. my question is the firewall the same shape as a 40. i have a 71' 40 out back so i need to look at it. another question is it really worth going with SS lines vs. the mild steel. i think i can find factory bent SS replacements from a couple of sources, but the lines to the rear will not be available so i will have to custom build them. wondering how hard it is to fab. SS lines? i know mild steel is easy, but i have heard SS if dif. to get good flares. here is a pic of a firewall of a 45 with the grafted 40 section. this is not my LV.
Well i need to give more info. the drivetrain in my 45lv will be from my donar 78' fj55. it has PS. i have already upgraded the rear axle to disc brakes. i will also be swapping the firewall for a section off a 79' fj40 donar so that the steering column and PB booster will all bolt up nicely. therefore, everything should be the same as a 40, including 10mm. my question is the firewall the same shape as a 40. i have a 71' 40 out back so i need to look at it. another question is it really worth going with SS lines vs. the mild steel. i think i can find factory bent SS replacements from a couple of sources, but the lines to the rear will not be available so i will have to custom build them. wondering how hard it is to fab. SS lines? i know mild steel is easy, but i have heard SS if dif. to get good flares. here is a pic of a firewall of a 45 with the grafted 40 section. this is not my LV.
That is a super-clean job! So congrats there. The only comment I would make is that normally you don't want to run any brake or clutch or really any hydraulic lines above the master due to trapping air. Mine was done before I realized this. I had no problem bleeding mine, but I used vacuum on the slave/caliper end. If you have any trouble bleeding, you may need to employ the Mity-Vac too.
Still very clean and well done!!!!!
Ed
Still very clean and well done!!!!!
Ed
