Repainting body panels and exterior parts that are not clear-coated from the factory (1 Viewer)

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My 80 series landcruiser from 1992 is a white (colour code 045) barn door model which is one of the finishes that wasn't clear-coated.

The paint is degrading everywhere, and I'm trying to deal with it and learn as I go.

For non-clear coated vehicles are there any special tips or tricks or is it basically the same as normal re-painting just with more attention to the base coat because it won't get clear-coated?
 
My 80 series landcruiser from 1992 is a white (colour code 045) barn door model which is one of the finishes that wasn't clear-coated.

The paint is degrading everywhere, and I'm trying to deal with it and learn as I go.

For non-clear coated vehicles are there any special tips or tricks or is it basically the same as normal re-painting just with more attention to the base coat because it won't get clear-coated?
For a non-clear coated vehicle in my experience painting HMMWV's. It's actually easier, clear coat is the hard part, but my recommendation is to sand with 800 grit, followed by 1200 grit. That will remove any impurities and imperfections, then some paint prep, use a tack cloth and go to town. Post pics for us and good luck.
 
A related aspect to this is the front fender panels - yes the outside but also the inside (which is almost always neglected and rusty) plus the inner fender panels that they're attached to (which again are almost always neglected and rusty). At least the outers are mostly smooth surfaced pieces so not difficult to restore.

When I replaced the LHS fender panel a while back (see thread on that) there was a fair bit of surface rust on the stuff that had been hidden since manufacture for 30+ years).

Again no clearcoat but also no finish coat as only undercoated.
 
My two '95s are both that color. I had one completely repainted and repainted the fender on the other.

Nothing special involved. It's just single stage paint. FWIW, to me, it's a good idea to remove body panels for painting, if it's at all possible.
 
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To do the front fender panels properly they def have to come off as they need full treatment both inside and out, plus then the inner fender panels that only ever got undercoat and rust over time can be addressed, but it's a big job. That's why it's nice to get a spare set of fender panels and do all the work to them off-car, swap out for existing ones, and that reduces the time factor for sorting the inners out.
 
Another thing - I see that 1k and 2k aerosols are readily available. 2k ones apparently provide a much better finish providing the pre-work is done right.

Do 2k paints work with the same primers at 1k or is some type of special primer required?
 
Is it better to remove doors to paint their exterior using aerosol paint systems rather that do them on the vehicle which then requires 1000x more masking? I only need to do the exterior. The 80 is factory white (code 045) so no clear coat and I don't really care/need gloss finish.
 
The problem with removing the doors is that you have to realign them when you hang them. I'd much rather cover the side with paper and tape than go through that.
 
A couple 1/8" holes drilled in each hinge prior to removal makes install a breeze. A door jack goes a long way too.

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with the front doors it's not really a big deal alignment wise, and the rear doors aren't really very heavy. Remember no electric windows with my 80 so all manual winders. If I take off the trims and remove glass even lighter, but the rears are a bit of a pita to remove/refit glass unlike fronts.

I'm still not settled on the paint I want to try as the stuff I used to repaint parts of the barn door exterior is holding up sort of ok with the primer supplied but the final coat is more matt than gloss. Also I think that I made a bit of an error as I gave the first final coat a light sand/clean/wipe before applying another go with the aerosol cans and I'm not sure if it mated properly with the first.
 

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