Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (4 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I'll run in from the top with the off the shelf hardware store bolt like I started out with. I like simple, reliable and an easy trail fix. I can actually get the cylinder off quick if I ever had to by pulling the rod end bolt at the tie rod clamp and then unscrew the cylinder from its rod end easily. That rod end can just stay there. No need to pull that bolt.

That rod end is bottomed out so there's no adjustment to worry about. Just screw the cylinder back on all the way. Leaving the tie rod clamp on, there is no loss of proper position at all. Pull one easy bolt, two hoses and It's off. I carry #6 caps and plugs in case I ever break or pop a hose. I think I'm good to go.

Thanks for the ideas. I do appreciate other perspectives.

Scott

 

[ntsqd]

With braided SS brake hoses I always order one extra of each unique fitting and hose end, and enough extra hose to make the longest hose on the truck. These get put in a sealed bag and carried in the vehicle. The idea being that I can make a replacement hose in the field if need-be.

If those hoses for the steering have been compromised in the past, this method might be worth considering. If they've been rock solid for years w/o any trouble than I wouldn't bother.

 

[aztoyman]

So far I haven't had hose or line failures. People in my group have though. EVERYBODY gets to have their turn broke on the trail so I try to be prepared as much as possible/reasonable to get home. I'm the ONLY Toyota in a big group of Jeeps in my local club. I don't have other members to count on for even a spare tire let alone parts. I carry a couple brake line caps and plugs as well.

I have re-usable hose ends on my steering and suspension hoses. Are they available for brake hoses? I thought they were all crimped.

 

[aztoyman]

I just got notified that my knuckle shims are here. (Local dealership) I have everything to assemble my front axle now so I better get busy prepping for paint and Git'r done.

I had a problem with the brake adapter plate when I tried to test fit it yesterday. Thankfully it was minor and I resolved it. I sent my feedback to Sky and haven't heard back yet. I might have just got a bad set of brackets.

 

[ntsqd]

The problem that most of the crimped SS brake hoses have is that if you look at them closely there is a tiny little tube that it the total mechanical connection between where the crimp is and the rest of the fitting. Very easy to snap off.

I don't even bother with those hoses. I buy the hose in bulk and the hose ends that I need. Assembling them is a good way to end up with a bunch of tiny punctures in your finger tips, but I've never had a hose fail. The spares that I carry are more in case of an accidental crimping of the hose.

Example re-usable hose end: Aeroquip FBM1100 Aeroquip Reusable PTFE Fittings | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1100 What they don't tell you is that the fitting is re-usable, but there is a brass ferrule that goes between the teflon liner and the braided SS that is not re-usable. These: Aeroquip FBM3720 Aeroquip AN Tube Ferrules | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm3720

 

[aztoyman]

Are there metric ones that fit our calipers or do you have to use an adapter fitting?

 

[ntsqd]

Basically you adapt everything to -3AN, and then run -3AN hoses between the adapters. There are some specialized hose ends available, but I try to avoid using those because they narrow the options possible.

 

[gnob]

I just got notified that my knuckle shims are here. (Local dealership) I have everything to assemble my front axle now so I better get busy prepping for paint and Git'r done.

I had a problem with the brake adapter plate when I tried to test fit it yesterday. Thankfully it was minor and I resolved it. I sent my feedback to Sky and haven't heard back yet. I might have just got a bad set of brackets.

what is the issue. i noticed on the site, it said later calipers may require the plate to be machined a bit to center the calipers properly...?

 

[aztoyman]

I couldn't get all the bolts in. The two on top weren't aligned. I haven't got to mounting the calipers yet.

 

[gnob]

I couldn't get all the bolts in. The two on top weren't aligned. I haven't got to mounting the calipers yet.

doh. you just opened them up a bit?

 

[aztoyman]

I still haven't heard anything from Sky so I'm just going to show what I did to get my brackets to fit in case anyone else runs into the same thing.

The center bore of the bracket is a nice snug fit on the spindle. Most of the bolts went in. Some were not going in easy and the top two wouldn't go in at all.

 

[aztoyman]

I put the bracket over the bore of the knuckle and the bolts lined up with the bolt holes. However, the center bore of the bracket did NOT align with the bore of the knuckle. The spindle aligns on that bore.

Here's a pic looking down through the knuckle. It's on top of my vise. You can see the misalignment.

All the bolts went in like they should do so it's not a bolt hole problem. It seems to me that the relationship of the bore to the bolt circle is off.

I didn't want to grind the bore of the bracket because it locates on the spindle and needs to fit properly. Which it does.

I thought about grinding clearance for the two top bolt holes but decided against it.

I took a chance and made ALL the bolt holes slightly larger to hopefully shift the bracket enough to align.

 

[aztoyman]

I found that a letter Z drill bit (.413") fit the bolt holes tight. The next size larger bit that I had is a 27/64 (.422") so I drilled the laser cut ? holes out.

I also found out that the black raised edge (slag?) from the laser cut is REALLY hard. I tried to file it down and my file skipped right over it.

It didn't look as bad on the opposite side so I tried drilling from that side. My drill bit was happier and I got them all drilled out.

I had to use a diamond hone to knock the raised edge down.

 

[aztoyman]

So drilling out the bolt holes to 27/64" allowed me to get all the bolts in without obstruction AND the bracket bore now aligns with the knuckle bore.

If this is not an acceptable repair/modification someone needs to make a better bracket.

Seems to be the same problem with some of the other brand brackets out there after talking to those that have them.

 

[88repo]

Damn, did your bit(s) actual survive that torture?

I knew plasma cut edges were hard as hell but always thought laser were somewhat softer.

Thanks for the warning.

 

[aztoyman]

I stopped drilling right away and looked at it. The other side looked better and it drilled fine. I did use cutting oil so no bit damage.

I'm just guessing it's laser cut as I have no experience with laser cutting. I have a plasma cutter but, never noticed anything like this.

 

[gnob]

think I may go tt my local water jet guy about these plates.

 

[ntsqd]

If you can draw it digitally I've gotten exceptional parts from sendcutsend.com

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

If you find yourself opening holes semi regularly get a HSS chucking reamer. They work great for plasma and laser'd holes. If you get larger ones you can use the chamfer on the tip of the reamer to de-burr those nasty burrs.

 

[aztoyman]

I started painting the axle housing and other parts. This is the kind of sh#t that happens when I get bored.

I like this logo.