Another diesel 40 build (1 Viewer)

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I don't think Rover frames came galvanized. They've got an even dumber and crappier setup than Toyota.
Fully boxes and very thin gauge.
There's a well known Rover shop nearby, I'm actually having lunch right now a block away. Bishop+Rook. Worth looking at, they do really nice work.
He said many of their restorations they put a new frame under them, and galvanize most of them.
 
Negative, no way I would want to remove that many rivets. I also don't like removing rivets and replacing them with bolts. Ultimately, I think the rivets are much stronger. I galvanized this frame over a decade ago and it doesn't have a spec of rust on it. I think galvanizing a 40 frame makes it pretty much last a lifetime.

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Just curious. Much better option than powdercoat
 
Yes, no need to split the frame. I didn’t and the end result is great. I painted it later with black epoxy.
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Since this 40 will have an Aqualu tub I didn't want to hang a factory tire carrier off the aluminum body. Last May when I picked up the new frame in Phoenix I met up with Dave and got one of his 4plus swing out tire carriers. I didn't want a cooler basket and opted for a single side carrier only. Last weekend I got it fitted and drilled the four additional holes in the frame. I want to have to do as little as possible to this frame once its galvanized.

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Yesterday my hardware came in to replace the 5/16 hardware the rear crossmember was installed with. I used 3/16 button head bolts with prevailing torque flanged nuts. The 3/16 bolts require running a tap through the holes for fitment. There are 7 per side. One of the bolts for the rear frame/spring hanger required clearancing one side of the button head to fit. The previous owner of this frame didn't have a 5/16 bolt in this location because it's such a tight fit.

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This one needed the bolt head clearanced.
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Once I had them all installed I torqued them down as tight as humanly possible. This is as close to the factory rivets as I could find for hardware. I contemplated actually welding up the hex head and flap disking it smooth so it would look like a rivet from one side. I decided since they will only be visible from underneath the 40 it wasn't really worth the extra effort. With the prevailing torque nuts and once the galvanizing gets on the exposed threads these things aren't going anywhere. Actually good possibility the galvanizing will fill the hex heads.

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I also dragged the tub out of hibernation where it's been sitting for over a decade.
At this point I'm at a standstill until I get back out to Arizona next month and get a crossmember from Dave.

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Weird. I noticed that one doesn't have the lower weatherstripping groove in the back. I thought Aqualu adds the groove if you have a 75 and up.

Which groove are you referring too? Perhaps it's something they've started adding in recent years? I purchased this body 2nd hand about ten years ago so there is no telling when it was actually manufactured.
 
Which groove are you referring too? Perhaps it's something they've started adding in recent years? I purchased this body 2nd hand about ten years ago so there is no telling when it was actually manufactured.
The groove on the rear sill for the ambulance doors. Looks like it doesn't have it. Should be easy to add though if you wanted.
 
The groove on the rear sill for the ambulance doors. Looks like it doesn't have it. Should be easy to add though if you wanted.
Hmmm interesting, never noticed that before. I have a soft top for this one so one of the items I still need to purchase is a tailgate of some sort.
 
Fast forward to about a year ago, I was browsing in the diesel section and came across a wanted advertisement of someone looking for a B diesel crank shaft. I sent the guy a message and offered him the whole engine. We struck a deal and I pulled the old 40 in the garage. The years of sitting with the top off had taken their toll. Water had gotten into the transmission through the missing shifter dust boot and froze the trans in 1st gear. It made for an interesting experience driving it into the garage with no brakes, no clutch, and stuck in 1st gear. The slave and master had also gotten water in them and were rusted froze. To top the experience off the ignition on this particular 40 doesn't shut the engine down either, a knob has to be pulled in the dash to turn the engine off.

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As you can see this thing was death trap even when it was new, nonboosted single circuit drum brakes, no roll bar, no dash pad, and no heater, no bells and whistles at all.

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How difficult was the engine removal. I've been looking for a step by step BJ40 engine removal on youtube and there's nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I need to replace the welch plugs and I believe the only way to access them is with the engine out.
 
How difficult was the engine removal. I've been looking for a step by step BJ40 engine removal on youtube and there's nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I need to replace the welch plugs and I believe the only way to access them is with the engine out.

I suppose that depends on your level of experience...probably easiest engine I've pulled but I've probably done...literally 100 or more.
 
Had a long work trip to Arizona last month so I met up with @lcwizard and camped at PB cabin. Dave made this awesome trans crossmember/skid plate for me so I can finally get this frame finished up and off to the sand blaster. Rolled it back in the garage this evening with the hope of getting it knocked out in the next couple of days

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Negative, no way I would want to remove that many rivets. I also don't like removing rivets and replacing them with bolts. Ultimately, I think the rivets are much stronger. I galvanized this frame over a decade ago and it doesn't have a spec of rust on it. I think galvanizing a 40 frame makes it pretty much last a lifetime.

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Really interested in the hot dip galvanising the chassis, have heard the chassis could twist from the process?
Any truth behind that and would you need to check the dimensions of the chassis after the process.
Seems like a great option for beach work and corrosion prevention.
Enjoying the work your doing.
 

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