8x Series V8 Swaps (16 Viewers)

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Buy from www.coldhose.com I’ve them used a few times now.

2-feet BH8 (#8 regular barrier hose)
3-feet BH10 (#10 regular barrier hose)
SB3002 12mm to #8 metric straight compression adapter fitting
SB3003 14.5mm to #10 metric straight compression adapter fitting
AA0738-AA0739 Denso 10S17F 10S20F Suction and Discharge Compressor adapters
(be careful on the next parts, there are lots of options for reduced barrier hose, aluminum vs steel, etc)
SB1313-3 45* female o-ring adapter to #10 hose with R134A suction port
SB1322-3 90* female o-ring adapter to #8 hose with R134A discharge port
 
Buy from www.coldhose.com I’ve them used a few times now.

2-feet BH8 (#8 regular barrier hose)
3-feet BH10 (#10 regular barrier hose)
SB3002 12mm to #8 metric straight compression adapter fitting
SB3003 14.5mm to #10 metric straight compression adapter fitting
AA0738-AA0739 Denso 10S17F 10S20F Suction and Discharge Compressor adapters
(be careful on the next parts, there are lots of options for reduced barrier hose, aluminum vs steel, etc)
SB1313-3 45* female o-ring adapter to #10 hose with R134A suction port
SB1322-3 90* female o-ring adapter to #8 hose with R134A discharge port
Yeah I think I bought all these things from them except one thing that was out of stock.
 
I don't think those will work for you. Plus you have the welder out anyways, use a real engine mount and not a cheap leaf spring bushing. Been there, done that, it doesn't last
Agree. All that pressure and vibration pinching on a surface area of a pencil.
 
Anyone have any tips on removing this fitting from the fuel pressure line? Mine begins to loosen then tighten up again? Trying to work on my fuel system for the swap.

114A25BE-F5F5-46CB-B018-C35ABA2113AB.jpeg
 
Anyone have any tips on removing this fitting from the fuel pressure line? Mine begins to loosen then tighten up again? Trying to work on my fuel system for the swap.

View attachment 3219909
I don't have a tip for that, but I just cut them out and ran AN fittings and hoses.
 
Last night I spent time working on my Derale dual fan setup. Someone previously posted about the brake lines on DS interfere. They do. I just unbolted the mount for them for now. Most likely I will bend them out of the way. You can see on the 1st pic where they interfere.

View attachment 3220359

View attachment 3220360
Very nice. Was that a factory radiator? Which fan kit is that? I plan on doing the same.
 
Very nice. Was that a factory radiator? Which fan kit is that? I plan on doing the same.

It's a Derale 16838
Here's my earlier post on it - I solved the brake line problem by chopping a corner out of the shroud. Other then that, it fits very well. Draws alot of power though - specs say about 25A for each fan, but mine blows 30A fuses on the regular. I'm running it with 40A fuses, since 35A can be hard to come by.

 
I have both the PRND2L and PRND32L shifters that I can use for the 4L80E transmission. Can someone school me in why to use one over the other (not just by saying it's an extra gear), and would is make a difference that my instrument cluster is the PRND2L? Thank you in advance.
 
I am using Mark's 4WD mounts in a LHD LX450.

The L96 is awfully close to the driver's frame rail. I won't be able to use the stock type II PS pump/pulley in the stock location. The Type II PS Pump return port points right at the PS box, and the 6" PS pulley hits the PS steering box. I probably could switch out the type II PS pump to an older type I PS pump and a smaller pulley. Smaller PS pulley usually means changing the harmonic balancer as well. I guess PS Pumps don't like to be over revved...

qJwaRdmmS3O3nA2hZDBZQ8C4qpNxTGabKC46veHFSMbU0OIQeMq8daepwKxfktZ_SdtWuk98TBNyR-gB0LhC6DrYczVapd22TSEWX-InfovXfo6WWdzreYYpUfak0ycskNy31gxeDUiNNxjWDkTMwEofLM_Z6VSh4G7yUxuEjRjzR-4BVWRyNQxAqMzmvPHJj6Hl_QYgpn7wicWEbZZ7p_odDJpiU-DTUsBw-COMuYMZFp3WzG4xVPjeXrrPmEIQWh3eGtNrc1bmkN0KdelMwgEg5n7MxgMeimFY0fY-55Qe0monwXeDsOH5eHECWWNOAiVLQF8ScYVwRL6WiI47eppirTtWN2sGLztzvFzFasbIMMHbla7P_x4mbthL_M-eRtPKtAJy8QiWC__eqYoSswUnuTlUtDv4twmCrO4N7bSix7_dPEbOfZmdZfMlyqQhGZasCilfC-SEXEoYyyiRnfF51pGxX9G7POxWN6DTT6oGqP58f7Axa-2gAx36YZIledSGtNPXS6UsUPUZMem8hlK7g7fcThJDfAQvm2svxKHXHeuLel3WTnpMhs1NO2CVBRmTK9zn3cq2rRpeGCVQFhH8Imb4B5EiFK2GAhB7dzg6KXQTBRNv5ic3g66gSsTQHzBNL8p8Gvs4olHJMx0M4G1o3EFvUrih7bIqrzwz2BDtjfe_WgvIBJRiJwA7KyQX8ntqZWfyE_WDyS0Wh-1awP3JMueVQPVUbnpPVceM-S0wT45wD6Yce6yTNLrRIacwPi4Zapae4B5KPF3tc3ITlE4_tFakVu_Ezjgt6xySSR0lFbA6d3XYVkXG8chAOOlYmXozq3bfgJgDuKR7bZJoqRBKzSWQmXt_xsLIs-6ly7R6VhRhFVRbPJMQEwfzN6HZfgThatyUZdc-VwQ66qOhsWyGCigFA39Cp85UqdONDVR3mA=w1424-h1069-no


To rectify this, I ordered a Holley High Mount PS/Alternator bracket, which shifts the PS pump up and in.

This got me to thinking... 🤔

Did Mark's 4WD shift the engine too much to the Left? Could I take a 1/2" strip out of the passenger's side frame engine mount and weld it into the driver's side frame engine mount? This would shift the engine right 1/2".
1674139431161.png


These are not accurate measurements by any means...give or take a few 100 thousandths

The 1FZ-FE is offset from center by 1.31" inches, as measured from frame rail to frame rail. I read elsewhere that it is 1.5".

The Mark's 4WD mounts put the L96 offset from center by 1.31", as measured from frame rail to frame rail.

The center of the Transmission rubber mount bolt holes are 1" from center of the transmission crossmember, as measure from its outside bolt hole to outside bolt hole.
1674139404507.png


Conclusion:
So, I think Toyota put the engine, transmission/tcase offset to the left > 1", and Mark's 4WD did the same. Mark's 4WD did not put the engine further left....

Moving the engine right for additional clearance might not be a good idea although 1/2" probably isn't a big deal...
 
I have both the PRND2L and PRND32L shifters that I can use for the 4L80E transmission. Can someone school me in why to use one over the other (not just by saying it's an extra gear), and would is make a difference that my instrument cluster is the PRND2L? Thank you in advance.
Prnd321 is nice because you can easily shift in and out of OD and the other individual gears. I personally would not use the stock shifter. I would use a lokar or winters unless you really want the interior to look 100% stock. Even then I don't think a lokar looks that much different. The cluster gear indicator is removable and swappable with earlier versions. Wiring it up is nice to have for sure in my opinion.
 
Prnd321 is nice because you can easily shift in and out of OD and the other individual gears. I personally would not use the stock shifter. I would use a lokar or winters unless you really want the interior to look 100% stock. Even then I don't think a lokar looks that much different. The cluster gear indicator is removable and swappable with earlier versions. Wiring it up is nice to have for sure in my opinion.
But would I HAVE to use a different cluster for the PRND321?
 
I am using Mark's 4WD mounts in a LHD LX450.

The L96 is awfully close to the driver's frame rail. I won't be able to use the stock type II PS pump/pulley in the stock location. The Type II PS Pump return port points right at the PS box, and the 6" PS pulley hits the PS steering box. I probably could switch out the type II PS pump to an older type I PS pump and a smaller pulley. Smaller PS pulley usually means changing the harmonic balancer as well. I guess PS Pumps don't like to be over revved...

qJwaRdmmS3O3nA2hZDBZQ8C4qpNxTGabKC46veHFSMbU0OIQeMq8daepwKxfktZ_SdtWuk98TBNyR-gB0LhC6DrYczVapd22TSEWX-InfovXfo6WWdzreYYpUfak0ycskNy31gxeDUiNNxjWDkTMwEofLM_Z6VSh4G7yUxuEjRjzR-4BVWRyNQxAqMzmvPHJj6Hl_QYgpn7wicWEbZZ7p_odDJpiU-DTUsBw-COMuYMZFp3WzG4xVPjeXrrPmEIQWh3eGtNrc1bmkN0KdelMwgEg5n7MxgMeimFY0fY-55Qe0monwXeDsOH5eHECWWNOAiVLQF8ScYVwRL6WiI47eppirTtWN2sGLztzvFzFasbIMMHbla7P_x4mbthL_M-eRtPKtAJy8QiWC__eqYoSswUnuTlUtDv4twmCrO4N7bSix7_dPEbOfZmdZfMlyqQhGZasCilfC-SEXEoYyyiRnfF51pGxX9G7POxWN6DTT6oGqP58f7Axa-2gAx36YZIledSGtNPXS6UsUPUZMem8hlK7g7fcThJDfAQvm2svxKHXHeuLel3WTnpMhs1NO2CVBRmTK9zn3cq2rRpeGCVQFhH8Imb4B5EiFK2GAhB7dzg6KXQTBRNv5ic3g66gSsTQHzBNL8p8Gvs4olHJMx0M4G1o3EFvUrih7bIqrzwz2BDtjfe_WgvIBJRiJwA7KyQX8ntqZWfyE_WDyS0Wh-1awP3JMueVQPVUbnpPVceM-S0wT45wD6Yce6yTNLrRIacwPi4Zapae4B5KPF3tc3ITlE4_tFakVu_Ezjgt6xySSR0lFbA6d3XYVkXG8chAOOlYmXozq3bfgJgDuKR7bZJoqRBKzSWQmXt_xsLIs-6ly7R6VhRhFVRbPJMQEwfzN6HZfgThatyUZdc-VwQ66qOhsWyGCigFA39Cp85UqdONDVR3mA=w1424-h1069-no


To rectify this, I ordered a Holley High Mount PS/Alternator bracket, which shifts the PS pump up and in.

This got me to thinking... 🤔

Did Mark's 4WD shift the engine too much to the Left? Could I take a 1/2" strip out of the passenger's side frame engine mount and weld it into the driver's side frame engine mount? This would shift the engine right 1/2".
View attachment 3223609

These are not accurate measurements by any means...give or take a few 100 thousandths

The 1FZ-FE is offset from center by 1.31" inches, as measured from frame rail to frame rail. I read elsewhere that it is 1.5".

The Mark's 4WD mounts put the L96 offset from center by 1.31", as measured from frame rail to frame rail.

The center of the Transmission rubber mount bolt holes are 1" from center of the transmission crossmember, as measure from its outside bolt hole to outside bolt hole.
View attachment 3223606

Conclusion:
So, I think Toyota put the engine, transmission/tcase offset to the left > 1", and Mark's 4WD did the same. Mark's 4WD did not put the engine further left....

Moving the engine right for additional clearance might not be a good idea although 1/2" probably isn't a big deal...

You can absolutely just install a slightly smaller pulley.

1/2” is no big deal all.

Funny, my motor mount kit doesn’t have any of these issues and works perfectly with the stock truck accessory drive :meh:

And is half the price :meh:

 
You can absolutely just install a slightly smaller pulley.

1/2” is no big deal all.

Funny, my motor mount kit doesn’t have any of these issues and works perfectly with the stock truck accessory drive :meh:

And is half the price :meh:


I was thinking about your mounts as I was problem solving Mark's mounts. 😁 I would 100% go with your mounts if I didn't already have Mark's mounts on hand when you released your mounts. I tried looking for pictures of clearances of your mounts and then I made this.

Marks vs Matts LS Mounts


It looks like your LS mounts puts the engine slightly higher and forward compared to Marks, which really helps with PS clearance. Am I right in that assumption? Forward is really good for me due to using a 6L90e.

Does the truck intake have to be changed to something less tall?

Oh, a side note The Land Cruiser Shop LS transmission crossmember centers the transmission, and does not offset it like the factory crossmember. I wished I had known that.... I will be cutting it up anyway to adapt it to the 6l90e. So pretty...but not for long.


Land Cruiser Shop LS Transmission Mount compared to stock
 
It looks like your LS mounts puts the engine slightly higher and forward compared to Marks, which really helps with PS clearance. Am I right in that assumption? Forward is really good for me due to using a 6L90e.

Does the truck intake have to be changed to something less tall?


You there is some front to back adjustability with mine. No reason to change the truck intake with mine, and the truck intake is better for a Land Cruiser anyways
 
I was thinking about your mounts as I was problem solving Mark's mounts. 😁 I would 100% go with your mounts if I didn't already have Mark's mounts on hand when you released your mounts. I tried looking for pictures of clearances of your mounts and then I made this.

View attachment 3223762

It looks like your LS mounts puts the engine slightly higher and forward compared to Marks, which really helps with PS clearance. Am I right in that assumption? Forward is really good for me due to using a 6L90e.

Does the truck intake have to be changed to something less tall?

Oh, a side note The Land Cruiser Shop LS transmission crossmember centers the transmission, and does not offset it like the factory crossmember. I wished I had known that.... I will be cutting it up anyway to adapt it to the 6l90e. So pretty...but not for long.


Land Cruiser Shop LS Transmission Mount compared to stock
I put in a L96 with a 6L90e. Using Marks as well. The diff is I made my own mounts. Why? Because I cut off the factory mounts before I realized you reuse those with Marks.

At this point after talking with Matt. I used the original cross member to help me set the engine location. The nice thing is I didn’t have to beat the passenger firewall to submission to get it all to fit. I have the normal pulley for the PS pump and have room. On the otherside the AC is tight but it can be removed as well. Also since I didn’t move the cross member the rear driveshaft still fits. Front doesn’t since I added Delta’s extended radius arms.

I also had plenty of room on the front for Derale fans. Pics below.

The showering wheel will solve the tap shift for me as well.

466C63C4-DFC9-4D72-91BB-99C5EFD8B68D.jpeg


1ADDFBDB-A1AB-4ACC-A96B-5DF147186798.jpeg


4F266AFB-3075-42FD-8340-7C53BB61CE39.jpeg
 

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